Light Surge at Steady Cruise

[RH77]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Do you have A/C? It could be coming on as part of the defrost setting. And you'd definitely feel the A/C kicking in.

For sure it's not the A/C -- when that engages, the clutch is quite loud and there's a considerable loss of available power. I've tested the situation with any possible heat/air in the off position and the air selector to "vent". It requires the A/C button to be engaged as well. I tried the A/C during this condition and it was more pronounced than the mystery condition.

RH77

[SVOboy]

It looks like it's time to sell the teg and get an insight,

[RH77]

Originally Posted by SVOboy

It looks like it's time to sell the teg and get an insight,

Welp, that settles it... To the Toyota dealer!

I choose not to afford a newer car right now. The Teg's runnin' great (knock on wood). It's pretty durable too -- more on that later.

RH77

[Who]

Might it be the alternator?

[RH77]

Originally Posted by Who

Might it be the alternator?

I'm leaning to something electrical. I may pull the plugs on the cooling fans to rule those out, but with the EOC lately, I'm concerned of alt/batt issues. It feels just like the A/C but very subtle. On really windy days (most of the time here) I can't discern it from wind buffeting -- but I noticed it with the tailwind today (and yeah, negative wind chills). Took forever for the TC to lock.

-RH77

[RH77]

Originally Posted by Who

Might it be the alternator?

I'm pretty confident that it's the alternator. After some randomly noted occurences, that seems to be the culprit:

When it was super-cold out, I moved the blower from "1" to "2" and noticed the draw (it was on an uphill climb, so very noticeable).

The vehicle is equipped with an "Electrical Load Detector" that fools with alternator demand (I expect -- from the shop manual, the ELD is an input into the ECU that regulates the output from the alternator, and cyles the input back to the ELD->ECU through Batt Voltage). It may be causing the cycling action when the battery voltage depletes and is consequently restored. I noticed a Sine Wave of sorts on the data logger, which could explain the behavior. To test the ELD, one of the sequences is to turn on the headlights for draw. I drive with them on constantly (I know -- it's a safety issue for me) -- but that may just be enough for it to rob enough juice for this situation.

Since it's noticeable, should there be any cause for concern (i.e. alternator bearing wear)?

RH77

[Who]

I'm inclined to think that it is normal. The alternator doesn't need to run steady. Maybe it's just a sign of how in tune you are with how the energy is consumed moving you around?

[RH77]

Originally Posted by Who

I'm inclined to think that it is normal. The alternator doesn't need to run steady. Maybe it's just a sign of how in tune you are with how the energy is consumed moving you around?

Thanks I get pretty picky with anything unusual about the car -- mostly to keep it running well/efficient for as long as possible.

[DAN]

When The Rad Was Out And In. Look At All The Lines And Hoses. If It Sarted Then, Something Happened Then. Use A Hose Or Starting Fluid To Look For Leahsd. Put One End Of The Hose At Your Ear And Move, Or Have Someome Move The End Around Lies Ect. Run The Moter Up And Down If Uot Heard Nothing At First. It Sounds Like Running Lean Or Timing.

[Uncle Dave]

Looks like this may have died. I have a, 2010, Chevy Cobalt. I have never liked the High Battery Voltage of 15 volts. I also believe in the lights on 24/7, safety. I have heard about a Smart Alternator. Some ideas seem good, but they may have off-shoots that are not expected.

If the alternator put out a regulated 13.8 V. As the battery reached charge, the current should drop off, as apposed to a Constant Current, which the battery would have to absorb and give off as heat, and possibly boil or "gas".

I used to drop the battery to the headlights with a 6A diode in the ground lead, to reduce the Lamp voltage, and increase the life. Have been thinking of putting in TWO in series to reduce the voltage by 1.4 volts. 0.7 volts drop on each diode.

I find it hard to see a real advantage to varying the Alt Volts.

I CAN understand an advantage between the Ears, behind the eyes.