Looking for 2nd car.. Geo Metro info requested..

[Chris D.]

Originally Posted by Gasoline Fumes

I'm not sure if power windows or locks were ever offered. I've never seen them on a Metro. Some 1989-1994 Suzuki Swift GTs had them, but the parts won't fit the newer Metros. All of the following applies to the "new" 1995-2001 cars. If you want MPFI, you'll have to get a Metro/Swift with the 4-cyl engine from 1998 or newer. If you want maximum fuel economy and OBDII, get a 1996+ 3-cyl Metro hatchback. There are very few options on these cars. Some had ABS. Some had a tachometer. Some had trip odometers. Metro hatchbacks were sold with both 3 & 4-cyl engines. Sedans were 4-cyl only. 3-cyl 5-spd had a 4.39 final drive, 4-cyl 5-spd had a 3.79 final drive. Automatic was only an option on the 4-cyl, avoid it. Power steering was an option on the 4-cyl sedan. Some of the '95-'97 Metros had recessed sealed beam headlights. Swifts were all 4-cylinder hatchbacks.

The "new" cars have another rust problem not found on the older models. The front section of the rear wheelwells rot out.

by far the best grouping of information I've found..

much appreciated..

how oddball is a 3cyl 5 speed with a/c?

[Chris D.]

Originally Posted by Gasoline Fumes

I'm not sure if power windows or locks were ever offered. I've never seen them on a Metro. Some 1989-1994 Suzuki Swift GTs had them, but the parts won't fit the newer Metros. All of the following applies to the "new" 1995-2001 cars. If you want MPFI, you'll have to get a Metro/Swift with the 4-cyl engine from 1998 or newer. If you want maximum fuel economy and OBDII, get a 1996+ 3-cyl Metro hatchback. There are very few options on these cars. Some had ABS. Some had a tachometer. Some had trip odometers. Metro hatchbacks were sold with both 3 & 4-cyl engines. Sedans were 4-cyl only. 3-cyl 5-spd had a 4.39 final drive, 4-cyl 5-spd had a 3.79 final drive. Automatic was only an option on the 4-cyl, avoid it. Power steering was an option on the 4-cyl sedan. Some of the '95-'97 Metros had recessed sealed beam headlights. Swifts were all 4-cylinder hatchbacks.

The "new" cars have another rust problem not found on the older models. The front section of the rear wheelwells rot out.

by far the best grouping of information I've found..

much appreciated..

how oddball is a 3cyl 5 speed with a/c?

[Gasoline Fumes]

Originally Posted by Chris D.

by far the best grouping of information I've found..

much appreciated..

No problem, glad to help.

how oddball is a 3cyl 5 speed with a/c?

I don't know. Probably more common in some place like Florida.

[Chris D.]

Are there different years where it used a slave cylinder for
a hydraulic clutch vs a regular cable actuated setup?

I'm just thinking about this for my backs sake
::crosses fingers::

[MadisonMPG]

The 1.3L 5 speed is good on gas, not quite as good as the 1.0, but if you need the extra "hamster" you have it.

A/C isn't that rare nor is it super popular, but do you really need it? Get an XFi if you can. If you can't, get the 3.79/.59 transmission, 3tech economy cam, +10 cam gear and you should be good. Lower it an inch or two, block the grille, and you should be good.

[Gasoline Fumes]

Originally Posted by Chris D.

Are there different years where it used a slave cylinder for
a hydraulic clutch vs a regular cable actuated setup?

I'm just thinking about this for my backs sake
::crosses fingers::

They're all cables.

[Chris D.]

Originally Posted by Gasoline Fumes

They're all cables.

thanks

I looked at a Chevy Metro listing on autozone and that vs the older Geo
cars didn't have a cable listed for replacment, absolutly all cable actuated?

Originally Posted by MadisonMPG

The 1.3L 5 speed is good on gas, not quite as good as the 1.0, but if you need the extra "hamster" you have it.

A/C isn't that rare nor is it super popular, but do you really need it? Get an XFi if you can. If you can't, get the 3.79/.59 transmission, 3tech economy cam, +10 cam gear and you should be good. Lower it an inch or two, block the grille, and you should be good.

I'd like a/c for the time the girlfriend is riding with me..
Humidity sucks out here in the summer time also..

Isn't the XFi an older model? older than 1996 (pre OBDII?)
If I regear it with the trans, cam and cam gear, will it be less powerfull or more torquey?

I'd be thrilled to death just to have a 35mpg combined vehicle..

[Gasoline Fumes]

Originally Posted by Chris D.

thanks

I looked at a Chevy Metro listing on autozone and that vs the older Geo
cars didn't have a cable listed for replacment, absolutly all cable actuated?



I'd like a/c for the time the girlfriend is riding with me..
Humidity sucks out here in the summer time also..

Isn't the XFi an older model? older than 1996 (pre OBDII?)
If I regear it with the trans, cam and cam gear, will it be less powerfull or more torquey?

I'd be thrilled to death just to have a 35mpg combined vehicle..

I think there was a 1.6L Suzuki Swift sold in Canada that had a hydraulic clutch, but all 1.0/1.3 cars had a clutch cable.

XFi was only in the older body style.

[Switchblade8588]

Well if your happy with 35 mpg then you could get any metro they all get above that. I have an XFI and the noise inside is alittle loud but worth it I can get 50mpg with the gas all the way to the floor but most of the time I drive slow and get In the 60s. The 3cylinder 5 speed is the only way to go I think if you get a 3.79 or 3.59 trans you will lose fast take off speeds but will gain probably around 10mpg. The xfi cam or the custom one from 3tech helps with mpg and low end power so if going to a taller trans I would put one in. Obd1 or obd2 these cars are very simple and easy to work on after 96 the cars were a little heavier so they lose a little mpg but not much it really just depends on what you want. Good luck shopping.

Oh and powersteering in a geo wouldn't be worth it they are light and very easy to steer

[Christ]

Dude, the Metros are lighter and easier to steer than my MK2 Golf... and I can steer that while parked from lock to lock with two fingers.

If you have trouble with manual steering racks, try adjusting the caster angle of the wheels a bit. The more caster angle, the easier to steer (less tire scrub while steering).