Looking for help building a Gas Vapor system

[racprops]

OK I will have to respond to the last few posts later today.

[racprops]

Originally Posted by tf4624

High Millage fuel system 200+mpg possibility (of course there are other ways to get the same or better.
Exhaust heat: This has been thought of before, using waste heat to heat up fuel and have it create more vapor. Using low temperature such 300 degrees will only leave waste/dead fuel (longer carbon bonds) in the base of the tank. So we use exhaust heat to fix that issue since exhaust heat goes much higher.

OMG your data is so out of date...many have tried, problem is once you really get the car on pure vapor the exhaust temp drops like rock killing you vapor making.


Challenge 1 You can't simply heat the fuel and boil it to get all vapor because of the mixture of fuels from the refinery.

Which is why I am talking 800 degrees to convert 100% of the fuel.

Challenge 2 if you were to have the entire fuel mixture heated enough so the heavy carbon chains would boil, the lighter carbon chains would turn to vapor and cause "vapor Lock"

WTF...Vapor lock only happens in a fuel delivery systems, you cannot Vapor Lock an engine ...

Challenge 2 solved Use a tank boiler design (high psi)

Pressure will raise the boiling temp...will defeat what your trying to do.

Challenge 3 maintain the correct air: fuel ratio, (no its not 14:1, never is or was)

Really, and what is the correct A/F Ratio on VAPOR????


You would need to build a primary heat exchange at a pressure high enough that none of the fuel would boil when the temperature of the mixture was higher than the boiling temperature of the heavy carbons at a lower pressure. Holding a liquid under pressure prevents it from boiling. the pressure in the fuel system is one of the factors that prevent vapor lock in summer. You will want to put enough heat energy into the fuel so that it will all boil when the fuel is released into a lower pressure area. The primary fuel ex changer should be at least 400 degrees and 450 pounds per square inch. Make sure your not creating a vacuum otherwise you will get vapor lock. Redirect the exhaust system though the heat exchange using a thermostatically controlled device. Use SS Steal for this. (this is needed to regulate the temperature. The extremely hot fuel mixture from the primary heat exchange should then be released into a 2ndary heat ex changer (400 degrees) though a pressure regulator. The regulator should take high pressure 8k psi and regulate down to 1-50 psi. keep the 2nd heat exchanger at about 4 psig. the fuel vapor that is created can be fed in to the air intake. 3rd part of this is another regulating or storage exchanger. This is to provide storage for a bit of pressurized vapor fuel so that extra fuel can be created on demand for acceleration. Can act as a surge suppressor to ensure a constant vapor pressure to regulate the air fuel ratio. (there's more but for now here is the "just" of the concept)

with all this you will need to keep the oem fuel system intact, start the car and get it warmed up .. turn the system on and then have a kill switch for the oem fuel system.

High pressure is not safe, storing vapor is not safe, exhaust heat will not work...this is a dead end and proven will not work.

Thanks anyway.

[racprops]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

Or use a fuel that is normally 100% vapor at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

OK what vapor has the power of gasoline vapor??

[racprops]

Originally Posted by teoman

Why not use a super heated common rail diesel system?

The fuel will instantly vapourize when injected?

teoman
EcoModding Lurker



oil pan 4
V8 guy



Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
Posts: 4,177


As you approach 400°F the materials in the common rail system start to fail.


Asked and answered…

[racprops]

Originally Posted by teoman

You would need to divert internal line that runs along the piezo elements (which are used for cooling the components) to some other loop with a cooling liquid.

On the nozzle side you would need to do modifications to add a heater, use heat compatible springs etc. If you can only localize your heat to the tip of the nozzle you could get away with using a standard injector. Maybe cool the fuel a lot so it cools the components above and make a sharper heat transition zone.

My idea is that if you have enough pressure on the fuel, then you can heat it up to the temperature you want and when you spray it it will instantly vaporize. You can control the amount injected with the injector.

Sorry high pressure and high temps will not work on a stock car... might as well convert to a electric motor...

I am talking about a stand alone add on vapor system, one that will work on say 5 PSI and deliver pure vapor to the engine heated by electric heaters on demand, and will not hold any vapor. The gas is flash vaporize as needed.

[racprops]

OK a new question:

I have read that Diesel has a lot less junk in the mix and can be vaporized at lower temp.

Anyone know any thing about this??

IF so I think a dual tank and fuel system would work great, diesel vapor for idle and mild driving and cruising and a automatic cut out and cut in of the stock gasoline fuel system when high power is needed...

[oil pan 4]

Originally Posted by racprops

OK what vapor has the power of gasoline vapor??

Propane.
Gasoline has about 20,000btu per pound, propane also has about 20,000btu per pound.

[racprops]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

Propane.
Gasoline has about 20,000btu per pound, propane also has about 20,000btu per pound.

OK so why does a gasoline motor lose so much HP on Propane??

AND MPG as well??

[teoman]

Originally Posted by racprops

OK a new question:

I have read that Diesel has a lot less junk in the mix and can be vaporized at lower temp.

Anyone know any thing about this??

IF so I think a dual tank and fuel system would work great, diesel vapor for idle and mild driving and cruising and a automatic cut out and cut in of the stock gasoline fuel system when high power is needed...

Not with vapor but with mixed fuel they had already done that and were claiming %50 efficiency.

[teoman]

Originally Posted by racprops

AND MPG as well??

Per weight they have the same BTU, but LPG is less dense as a liquid, so 1L of LPG weighs less than 1L of gasoline.