Looking for help building a Gas Vapor system

[racprops]

I see heaver larger cars, higher RPMs and higher HP ratings as almost everyone wants performance not MPG..

[racprops]

I have to admit that the electric car is looking very good now a days, the new Chevy all electric Bolt EV and the Super-hot Tesla, with around 200 mile range make great city cars for the daily drive to and from work.

The only place they fail is those long road trips.

IF I my way I would have a Tesla or Chevy Bolt EV for everyday driving and a high MPG big Van for those road trips, which sadly make the van more a sitting RV.

Sadly there are problems with their carbon foot prints, both in their manufacture and how dirty the electric power is made…

But for personal costs the cost to drive is very low, as in repairs as they hardly need any.

[oil pan 4]

Just search "thermostatic air" or "thermostatic intake" in titles only, me and 2 or 3 other people have used it.
It works for carburetor and fuel injection.
I use it for improved fuel vaporization and better tuning consistancy with the air being fed through the carburetor thermally static now I don't have to try to tune for constantly changing air temperature.

EOC is simply engine off coasting.

[racprops]

Well I find with my Ford it loses power and drops MPG here in the summer in AZ, so that does not seem like it will work.

And with power brakes, steering and an automatic EOC is not a option.

And here is a puzzle: my 1993 Chevy van with TBI and a OBDi system will allow me to shift into neutral and coast with the engine running at idle speed/RPM BUT when I try that with my Ford at say 70MPH and 1700RPMS kicking it out of gear and the engine races at 2400RPMs, so it seems to use as much gas either way.

[oil pan 4]

My thermostatic intake is a little different than most. It also packs a switchable cold air intake. There for no loss of power when I need it.
Plus the thermostatic mixer we use keeps the air temperature between 90°F and 95°F.
So you think heating the fuel will not cause a loss of power?

Steering my 3/4 ton suburban at speed with no power steering is not a problem. The secret is cursing down the road you don't actually use any power assistance unless you are trying to turn hard enough to flip your vehicle. I have the power steering unhooked and can still drive just fine, even in parking lots.
So "No power steering" isn't an excuse.

Power break booster hold vacuum in reserve incase the engine stalls to allow power assist for 2 or 3 pumps of the brake.

As far as I'm concerned if some one can't handle their vehicle with out power assistance they shouldn't be allowed to drive. All that means is they will panic and crash when the engine stalls when approaching a turn or traffic stop.

EOC is a lot safer than trying to super heat gasoline.

[oil pan 4]

So how were you going to greatly reduce the EGT of an engine that uses constant volume heat addition?
A constant pressure heat engine would be a much better choice.

[hotshoetom]

Originally Posted by ChazInMT

I always love how people are smart enough to know the 30% utilization thing but not smart enough to figure out where it comes from and what it means. Never mind 99% + is burned in the combustion chamber of any modern vehicle...that number is of no value when when 70% is wasted. By using a fuel vapor system, you can burn up to 99% + instead of 30%!! Oh Heck Yea!!!

So if a car is getting 33MPG burning 99% of the fuel 99% of the time, and it's only using 30%....Then....It should get 100MPG if it burns 90% cause 90 ÷ 30 = 3 and 3 X 33 is almost 100!!! See, the math does work.

wow....i think this must be new math...lol

[oil pan 4]

It's called math for the true believers.

[racprops]

Well I just may understand it better than you think. Only 30% is making POWER, that is burning and expanding during the part of the cycle that can put power to the crank, and that is about 70% of the down stroke of the piston from top dead center.

Granted another 40/50% is still burning though bottom dead center and during the returning up stroke of the piston and though the exhaust cycle and still burning on its way out the exhaust port, pass the exhaust valve and into the exhaust manifold.

Which is one reason ICEs get so damn hot the exhaust temps can run in the 1000s of degrees and the exhaust manifold runs very hot.

I have seen test bench runs of an ICE at full throttle where the manifolds and exhaust pipes can glow bright red with the heat.

NOW IF we can supply pure vapor it is said it will not need any lead time (zero advance timing) and will burn very fast and will have produced power for the 30% of the real power stroke and be completely burn out at that point. This very fast burn of only the 30% of fuel in the 30% of the real power stroke from top dead center to say 75% of the down stroke can produce just as much power with no left over waste of burn fuel.

SO if you get the same power with fast burning vapor you only need say 30% so you get much better MPG by not using the other 70% of normal fuel use/waste.

GET IT???

[charlo49]

i started to go this route...i did purchase and install a wick-type fuel vaporizer, but it made no discernable difference. the more i got into it, the more i realized what you really have to do is remap the ecu.

when you have control of that, then you can adjust everything so you can run on E-85 say, and advance the ignition timing, and/or inject water/methanol from your windshield washer tank, install plasma ignition, and so forth.

all these things can be purchased off the shelf without all the experimentation involved with trying to build your own system.

i haven't done this since there is no aftermarket ecu for my car (98 subaru impreza non-turbo...there are plenty of ecu's for the turbo engines).