Make small engines great again

[oil pan 4]

Dynamometer time?
Since about 85% of the population doesn't live in California or a state with California like emissions standards and about 98% of us don't live in a top 15 air pollution city there's no point in wasting fuel and missing out on power because of mu emissions.
Everything robot cantina did to their 212cc and 420cc engines to make them go faster and gave them more power also improved fuel economy. Which is opposite of how it usually works on car engines.
These little engines were being ran pretty much wide open throttle all the time so don't expect the same on a full size car engine.
This episode of robot chicken there is a dynamometer being used.
https://youtu.be/QZJ5J_CFFDs

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QZJ5J_...ature=youtu.be

Pretty simple. I have a non functioning table saw I could use as a stand.

I was considering doing a timing advance test and timing advance test then this drops:
https://youtu.be/TX3LY4fPNRI

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TX3LY4...ature=youtu.be

My observations concur, no benefit to running midgrade or premium in a stock small engine.
My plan was doing like 2, 4 and maybe 6 degrees of timing advance and he goes straight for a 12 degree advance....

[oil pan 4]

The pressure washer specific not to 6,000psi fluid filled gauge came in, so did my tachometer.
Knowing any speed and force gives me horsepower. Gpm is speed and psi is force, so...
My pressure washer dynamometer helped me find a half horsepower.
I found a little hack that gets any Honda digital ignition a few degrees of timing advance at full speed.
So I did it and picked up 4 degrees of advance at 4,000rpm and probably about a half horsepower as the engine tuned faster when held wide open, hitting higher rpm, which means it pumped more and at increased pressure.
It was about 100psi more and 0.1gpm more.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

Everything robot cantina did to their 212cc and 420cc engines to make them go faster and gave them more power also improved fuel economy. Which is opposite of how it usually works on car engines.
These little engines were being ran pretty much wide open throttle all the time so don't expect the same on a full size car engine.

Just like good old 2-strokes prior to reed induction valves and exhaust "power valves" became mainstream on motorcycles, those stationary engines (even a 4-stroke which seems to be the only ones easily available by now) are set to a much narrow RPM band, compromising too much the efficiency when they're operating for an extended period in other RPM band.

[oil pan 4]

Throwing some advance on these engines will increase fuel economy, torque, HP and NOx across the board.
The timing hack gives 4 more degrees at max speed but you still have about 20 degrees at 1,200rpm with or without the hack. Have to use a timing advance key to advance the base timing.

I'm thinking "timing advance" should be the stage 0 mod. Everyone can use it in all configurations the only time you wouldn't want to use it is if you live in an S hole country where there's not much difference between the available gasoline and diesel. Standard timing will allow some pretty nasty gas to be ran.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

Standard timing will allow some pretty nasty gas to be ran.

Those random stationary engines tend to be tuned quite conservatively anyway, yet the ethanol content on regular unleaded gas in my country is often pointed out as too high. At least it fixes a much lower octane rating which would be a PITA had ethanol not been added

[oil pan 4]

Installed an 8 degree advance key on my 196cc log splitter and with decent, not old but not fresh gasoline it ran great.
I don't have any logs that would test the engines power output.
Advance keys seem fairly universal, I use the same keys on Kohler 196cc, Honda gx390 and predator 459cc.
I also built back the Kohler engine back better with an old Briggs and Stratton intake, the Kohler intake only held on by the 2 carb studs just flapped in the wind, the BS intake uses a 3rd bolt that connects the intake to the throttle linkage plate. Much more stable and less Shakey.
I guess Kohler figures they save 13 cents by going with a 2 pont intake instead of a 3 point, cheap arse tards.
And I would bet the BS intake is more dust proof and flows better.
The Kohler intake uses a trashy a single thumb nut to hold the intake and cover on, the BS intake uses 2 thumb nuts, one to hold the filter down and one to hold the cover on, which I replaced the thumb nut on the filter with a nylon lock nut when it was on the wood chipper.
(It's a salvaged intake)

[oil pan 4]

I go a blown up Briggs and Stratton 140cc lawn mower. For $10 so I could use the mower deck.
I pulled the head. Seems nice.


Here is the head I pulled off a 160cc mower I'm bringing back to life.

I'm not sure what the idea behind this head is. Reverse engineer an ohv to be more like a flathead?

Anyways I'm putting the clearly better 140cc head on the 160cc engine and advancing the ignition timing.

[redpoint5]

Do you like French Fried taters?

[freebeard]

Do you like French Fried taters?

Wut?

You might be interested in this small engine modification: DIY Plasmoids

[Blacktree]

Originally Posted by redpoint5

Do you like French Fried taters?

hehe