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Old 09-26-2014, 12:11 AM   #11 (permalink)
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ChargE (not yet running) - '92 Mazda MX6 LX
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Mazda MX6 Day 007 video 004 July 6, 2014

Exhaust finally removed. The bolts were all rusted so I got some THERAPY smacking things apart with a sledge hammer (2 lb) and a wrecking bar!

Remove engine from car. I got it out without removing the transmission, but I had to rotate it in place first.

Do some measurements (kind of rough) to check pin locations for canev adapter and compare to drawing emailed from canev

Mazda MX6 Day 007 Video 004 July 6 2014 - YouTube

I'm concerned that the transmission adapter from CanEV.com is not going to fit. The drawing does not match ... or does not appear to match. So I take more measurements. The Mazda is not a popular conversion anymore, so Randy will not be fabricating more of these adapters. This last one is a 'final sale' .. so I want to make sure it will work before I dish out $895 plus shipping and taxes ...

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Old 09-26-2014, 02:25 AM   #12 (permalink)
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,,,ohh, a cliff hanger. Stay tuned. I'd noticed the date, but wasn't going to draw attention to it.

Are you weighing the stuff as you remove it? Would it be a spoiler to estimate the weight lost and gained?
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Old 09-26-2014, 03:57 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thingstodo View Post
...
Remove engine from car. I got it out without removing the transmission, but I had to rotate it in place first...
Ouch, i will never again be able to complain about difficulties getting an engine out.
Yours looked like quite a struggle. I had heaps of room at the timing belt end to move the engine clear of the transmission and i didn't have a mid drive shaft support to deal with.
How good does it feel though knowing that you never have to put that horrible oily engine back in again.


The only thing that made the engine removal difficult was having no access to an engine crane.

But after a lot of crazy lifting attempts it was out.


You can see how much of the wiring loom was able to be removed. All the loom from the left side of the photo is now gone.
Hopefully your loom can be simplified just as easily.

I liked the shots near the end of your video of the engine lying on it's side, defeated and soiling itself all over the floor.
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Old 09-26-2014, 10:39 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Looks like a fun project!

I'm not gonna thread jack with a link or anything, but if you need some EV parts, PM me.
What's the plan - clutch? No clutch?
Do you have a motor already? Controller?

Good luck with the build!
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Old 09-26-2014, 09:53 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard View Post
Are you weighing the stuff as you remove it? Would it be a spoiler to estimate the weight lost and gained?
It would not be a spoiler. I just have to figure out which video it's it and write down the numbers.

I'll try to do that tonight.
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Old 09-26-2014, 09:58 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Astro View Post
How good does it feel though knowing that you never have to put that horrible oily engine back in again.
*VERY* good.

By the way - I did not measure the clearances when I had the dino-burner in place. I'll have to go from the pictures and estimate the ride height.
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Old 09-26-2014, 10:10 PM   #17 (permalink)
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** SPOILER ALERT **

Not that anyone is in suspense or anything, but info below makes the info in the videos even LESS interesting ... if that's possible ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mechman600 View Post
Looks like a fun project!
Fun, but in a scary sort of way. I'm an electrical guy and this is a pretty steep learning curve for me.

Quote:
I'm not gonna thread jack with a link or anything
A lot of the fun of forums are the tangents we take. Post away!

Quote:
if you need some EV parts, PM me.
Sure. I will PM. Right now I'm having issues with the accelerator. The Netgain Industrial controller wants 2 hall effect signals related by some formula. I can use their pot-box replacement .. but no one in Canada appears to sell it. Or their normal accelerator pedal. There is a setting for a Prius pedal ... do you have one of those?

Quote:
What's the plan - clutch? No clutch?
I'm leaving the clutch in but since I removed the transmission I am told I need to 'bleed' the hydraulic lines to have it work again. Not sure if I will be successful on that one. But my old clutch plate with 370K on it will be my mechanical 'fuse' and tell me when I have turned up the controller TOO FAR ... I am told I should smell clutch when that happens.

Quote:
Do you have a motor already? Controller?
Yes. Netgain warp 11 series wound DC with a Netgain Industrial controller.

Quote:
Good luck with the build!
Thanks
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Old 09-26-2014, 10:24 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Mazda MX6 Day 008 video 005 July 7, 2014

More measurements for motor adapter plate.

The 'read'em and weep' comment is because the measurements that I was looking for were:
- 130 mm from hole to hole on the top edge
- 220 mm from the right top hole to the right pin
- 346 mm from the right pin to the left pin

When I discussed these with Randy at CanEV.com, he said that they matched his adapter perfectly. So I ordered it (but I am still worried)

Mazda MX6 Day 008 Video 005 July 7 2014 - YouTube
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Old 09-27-2014, 02:45 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I do have a pot box, but it's a cheapo and kind of toast. A 0-5000K one. After sitting for a while the contact isn't the greatest and the throttle response is a bit jerky unless you give a few depresses of the throttle before turning the key on. I sprayed some electrical lube into it a couple times which cured it for a few months. I strongly suggest buying a genuine Curtis unit, as they have better internals. I would give mine away for $10. Probably less...ha ha.

Here's my parts for sale thread:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ger-29943.html

Not sure what's of use for you there.

I would strongly suggest keeping the clutch, which I guess you are anyway. Adds a margin of safety in case of possible [heaven forbid] "welded controller & contactor EV runaway" and makes shifting much easier. Not that EV clutchless shifting is that hard, but I guess quicker is the better word. Clutchless shifting takes more time.
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Old 09-27-2014, 04:04 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
I'm leaving the clutch in but since I removed the transmission I am told I need to 'bleed' the hydraulic lines to have it work again.
Hydraulic clutch? If you remove the engine and transmission, what does the clutch attach to? Or should I be watching the videos?

mechman600 -- Is there a second reason for retaining the clutch? Because I watched a Youtube video of a Porsche EV conversion, and as he was driving he'd say, "Oops, there goes the clutch...there goes the clutch."

Won't a switch like they put on the outside of race cars substitute?

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