MG Midget + Geo Metro 3cyl = MGeo - Page 17 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

Christ · 05-10-2012, 07:24 PM

So is the front of the roof going to lift away from the windshield, or will it hinge on the windshield frame and lift away from the trunk?

I personally think I like the former better... A-pillars aren't usually strong enough to withstand odd loading force, and a good wind with the roof up might crack the windshield.

Are you making the front end all one piece hinged, or one piece to lift off? What do you figure it will weigh once it's all set, trimmed, and fitted? Do you think one person could, say, grab it by the fenders and lift it off without risking damage?

It's coming along very nicely, sir. Something to be proud of for many years when you've finished it.

pete c · 05-10-2012, 08:29 PM

that nose looks like it's coming along well. i think it kind of has an MGA shape to it, which is much better looking, IMO than the midget nose.

nimblemotors · 05-23-2012, 12:52 AM

Have a lot of the front body work completed, here is the front end tilt, look at the room to work on the engine! Still need the headlights and grill, and fix all surface imperfections. It is a labor intensive processing doing a one-off glass-over-mold method that requires the fiberglass surface be smoothed to a paint quality surface.
I haven't weighed it, but I can lift it off myself no problem, a bit bulky, I'd guess 50lbs.

I've also modified the windshield frame, raking it forward about 5 inches. I thought I might have to shorten it, but with the base moved forward to the edge of the body, the height is just about right for the chopped and raked hardtop.

Still trying to figure out how to do the side windows, putting them in the doors isn't attractive. I'm thinking attaching them to the hardtop, and put in sliders embedded in them. So when the top if removed, the windows go with it. The top will have to slide back, and then pivot up if the side windows are attached.

I may have to put this project on hold again, I need to clear out some other projects in the driveway that block it from getting out of the garage.

In particularly, I must finish my electronic throttle control, EFI and COP ignition conversion to my 1960 tractor-loader-backhoe. Then use it to level off a lot I own, so I can move some vehicles there.

Christ · 05-23-2012, 01:09 AM

Have you seen how the windshield in an excavator opens? Could you do something like that with the side glass?

nimblemotors · 05-23-2012, 02:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christ

Have you seen how the windshield in an excavator opens? Could you do something like that with the side glass?

do you have a picture of what you mean?
I need to be able to open the window to get some airflow inside so it must open partially while at speed. Also must open for a drivethru, etc, without opening the door, or the roof either.

So I think a sliding window, like they used in the older Bugeye sprite, but attached to the hardtop, might be the way to go.

Christ · 05-23-2012, 02:47 AM

I think you'd have to actually see it. If theres a cat dealer near you, check out an excavator there.

Theres a frame that the window fits in and locks, and it pops in toward the operator, then slides up and locks against the ceiling in the fully open position.

gone-ot · 05-23-2012, 02:37 PM

...sorta like a one-piece garage door system on each side of the car?

Christ · 05-24-2012, 12:56 AM

Yes, exactly like that.

If acryl can be used, a thin enough sheet will curve and allow incremental opening gaps while confirming to the roofline.. Not interfering with the driver/passenger head space.

nimblemotors · 05-24-2012, 08:35 PM

That is an interesting idea. The problems would be there really isn't much extra head room given the top has been chopped 2 inches. And there is a significant curve down from the rooftop to the window, pretty much 90-degrees, so I'm not sure how it can retract up there with flatish glass (I will actually be using PEX for all the windows)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christ

Yes, exactly like that.

If acryl can be used, a thin enough sheet will curve and allow incremental opening gaps while confirming to the roofline.. Not interfering with the driver/passenger head space.

guudasitgets · 06-02-2012, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nimblemotors

That is an interesting idea. The problems would be there really isn't much extra head room given the top has been chopped 2 inches. And there is a significant curve down from the rooftop to the window, pretty much 90-degrees, so I'm not sure how it can retract up there with flatish glass (I will actually be using PEX for all the windows)

What you could do if you don't want to flip it up in the hardtop with piano hinge is to just form a piece of Lexan with any curve you want (shape poly/foam with a hacksaw) then heat it in a low temp oven and let it lay in the form and let it cool. Then make "L" brackets on all four corners and use Zeus fasteners in the Lexan to the brackets to mount them. Theres enough give in the Zeus fasteners for body movement. It would take you 30 seconds to pop the windows in if it was going to rain and you can cut them as close as you want to rain-proof the windows to the car. Then when not using them, of coarse you would have to stow them behind the seats somewhere.