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Old 06-18-2008, 07:49 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
Quite a turnaround from kicking it to polishing it lovingly
I have a Love/Hate relationship with this car

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Old 06-18-2008, 09:33 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Mullet,

The car is looking great... it looks like those headlights would clean right up, too.
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Old 06-18-2008, 12:04 PM   #33 (permalink)
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this might be a stupid question... not sure.
since the engine is only 1.3L, would it be possible to use a motorcycle battery to turn it over? this might save you 5 pounds in weight, since they are smaller.

many motorcycles are over 1300cc's these days.
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Old 06-18-2008, 12:08 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Man, now you have to pull the engine and paint it, too - something classic and offbeat, like Fairbanks-Morse green. That'd look appropriately strange in there.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:27 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
it looks like those headlights would clean right up, too.
I tried cleaning them up even with rubbing compound and a buffer. There seems to be some coating on them that melts a little with brake cleaner, but I did not feel like trying to remove it all like that. I thought about converting to the "Sealed Beam" setup found on the 4 door and others, but then I would lose some aerodynamics. If anyone knows what I can use to melt off this old clear coating without hurting the lights or my paint/bumper, let me know.

Quote:
since the engine is only 1.3L, would it be possible to use a motorcycle battery to turn it over?
It's actually a 1.0L engine. I think a smaller battery might be a great idea for weight reduction!

Quote:
Man, now you have to pull the engine and paint it, too - something classic and offbeat, like Fairbanks-Morse green.
That has already crossed my mind, but I was thinking more along the lines of "Caterpillar Yellow" or "Chevy Orange". Image a painted little 1.0L with a CAT diesel powered scheme and black trim.

Man, I wish I had another Metro! I would totally finish rebuilding mine, then the other one would be next!

BTW, my exhaust went to hell, so I replaced it all! I removed the bad cat and replaced it with a scrap piece of 1 3/4" pipe all the way to the resonator and put a new muffler and donut gasket on..........



Exhaust pipe = $0.00
Donut gasket = $10.00
Walker replacement muffler = $90.00
Clamp = $2.00

Total cost = $102.00
Labor time = 3 hours
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:55 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Damn Johnny, you've come along way on this car. Great job. You also did a slick job on the mirror delete. I'd try the driver side too. With those interior convex mirrors.

Awesome job.
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:41 AM   #37 (permalink)
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at auto-zone (and im assuming other autoparts stores) they have a headlight "restorer" which is basicly a super fine sanding paper and rubing compound (usually) its a bit of work but it turns out great! just a thought, i dont know if there is anything else that removes hazing
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:50 AM   #38 (permalink)
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you can use nailpolish remover, which is basically watered down acetone. then get "wet or dry" 1500 or 2000 grit, wet sand the covers and work the plastic with the buffer off of the car.

The only problem is that one the uv protection in the plastic goes, the lights will not stay clear long, especially if you live in the deep south.
but they will look nice....
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Old 06-19-2008, 01:35 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Johnny, On those headlights.....Start with 2000 grit or 1500 grit wet sanding paper. The sheets are half sheets if you go with 3m. Fold the half sheet into thirds. Find something flexible yet firm to back up the sand paper like a little rubber squeege or firm sponge. If you have a Napa or a bodyshop supply house near by they have wet sanding pads.
(this helps keep your finger tips from doing the sanding and helps sand more evenly) . Get a CLEAN bucket and fill it with CLEAN water put a LITTLE squirt of liquid dish washing soap in the bucket and mix it up a little. Rinse off the head light of any dirt and start sanding. Start at a corner and work your way across the lense. Try not to push to hard and rinse frequently. When you are sanding try to do it when it's quiet so you can hear the paper rubbing the plastic. As you are sanding if you hear a little "zing"...That is a piece of dirt between the paper and the lense STOP and rinse the paper and the lense. Sand the lense until you see that most of the imperfections on the surface are gone. The lense will still look very cloudy but you want it to look "even" not more cloudy in one spot then another. This will take some time maybe 1/2 hour or so per light. But patience is well worth it for these lights are $130.00 each (new) aftermarket. Next get a variable speed buffer (Not a 7 1/2" Grinder) with a wool pad and micro finishing compound or a compound that say's it will remove 1500 grit sand scratched. Smear up the lense with compound and buff it SLOW with moderate pressure and I mean SLOW. Take your time, As the shine comes back to the plastic you can spin the buffer a little faster. If you buff it to fast and too hard and the compound dries out you WILL burn into the lense. The lense will now have a shine and will be much clearer, Clean the pad or change your pad and now buff it with a cleaner wax or something that will remove micro finishing scratches. This will bring the "sparkle" back. Again buff it slow Buff until you are happy with it then give it a coat ot two with regular wax by hand and try to keep up with waxing them... Hope that helps .......I've been doing that for years.... Keep up the great work on your thread !!!
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Old 06-19-2008, 09:28 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Looking very nice Johnny!

BTW, this is what I use for foggy headlights: http://www.meguiars.com/?clear-plast...Cleaner-Polish

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