My 1991 Talon TSi Compound Turbo AWD

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by Logic

Oh as soon as you use the heat from a ICE the efficiency goes WAY-WAY up!

And they tend to reject a lot of heat... Maybe running a serpentine around the exhaust to recover heat, in a way similar to how those older absorption fridges required an open flame to work, would also be useful and increase the overall efficiency of the co-generation setup. Had it not been for safety issues, that would be a good way to have air conditioning for nearly free in a car.

[Logic]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

Thanks again for the info.

KW I'm not sure? Right now I'm running two 1500watt heaters that will sustain working temps when it's 35*F outside.

I'm thinking about running my transmission also that would be coupled to generator. Cranks rpm will be between 2200rpm and 3200rpm.

With a std gearbox, rpms don't matter:
One of the gears is likely to get your engine and generator at the optimal or desired rpm's for them both.

I'm thinking a rolled or similary scrapped EV with Vehicle to Grid (V2G) capability gives you a nice efficient generator (in regen mode) and a nice big battery that you can easily just 'plug in'

"...Several vehicle manufacturers support V2G in some electric cars, including models from Ford, Hyundai, Kia, Mitsubishi, Nissan, and Volkswagen..."
https://mybroadband.co.za/news/motor...-the-grid.html

What are you thinking in terms of using the engine's waste heat at home?
Plumbing into the cooling system's heat is easy enough.
For exhaust heat; someone here had a bunch of EGR coolers they'd saved from somewhere for sale...
oil pan:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...ger-29085.html

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by Logic

"...Several vehicle manufacturers support V2G in some electric cars, including models from Ford, Hyundai, Kia, Mitsubishi, Nissan, and Volkswagen..."

Not sure if it applies to any BEV, but I have watched some videos of people plugging some home appliance on the charging inlet of an EV with an adaptor plug.

[Piotrsko]

If they are plugging the appliance into the charge port, there is either gonna be some pricey bidirectional electronics between the battery and the appliance or it is a DC capable appliance. Some charging methods allow you to jump a traction pack or use it for DC power with the correct adapter. Otoh, there are schemes that have an adapter like the ford lightning, but it isn't the charge port but might be in the same covered area.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

If they are plugging the appliance into the charge port, there is either gonna be some pricey bidirectional electronics between the battery and the appliance or it is a DC capable appliance.

I don't know how it worked, but the appliances operated on AC.

[Logic]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

I don't know how it worked, but the appliances operated on AC.

You get V2H vehicles where if/when your house is disconnected from the grid; you just carry on like normal when the cars plugged in and supplying power into the whole house's mains.
ie: A good inverter changes the DC into AC of the correct voltage AND gives that AC a nice sine wave rather than a cheap 'square' wave AC.

V2G is the same thing
BUT
you need 3 AC outputs 120 degrees out of phase with each other to make 3 phase power.
THEN
you need to sense when the grid AC's phase 1 say, is at say the very top of it's sine wave and output your AC so that it's exactly the same and thus IN PHASE with the grid.
If it isn't; you get large sparks, electrical fires, chaos and pandemonium!

V2H (with its large battery pack) may be fine for pgfpro.
It all depends on his use vs output and what the local state of affairs/chaos is when it comes to selling power back to the grid.
I have a feeling he will be producing a good bit more power than he can use though, so V2G... or a discreet deal with his neighbours!