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Old 05-09-2012, 06:47 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Fat Charlie View Post
How much tread do you need to feel safe? In a New England winter it's nice to have a lot, but in general you don't need much. Any tread at all is usually enough.
It's not about feeling safe - it's about being safe. The less tread that is left on a tire, the less effective it is if you need to stop quickly. On a dry road you can even get away with having bald tires, but it's not recommended. On a wet road it may be the difference between a collision and avoiding one. Having those tread wear indicators and that there are laws in all states regarding tread minimums are not merely suggestions.

I don't but cheap tires that don't perform well. It's not worth the extra risk. As the saying goes, the only thing between you and the road are your tires.

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Old 05-09-2012, 09:44 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I responded to a troll, now that the troll is gone so is the quote and my response.

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Old 05-10-2012, 03:56 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Didn't realize this thread would turn into a debate on epa numbers but very good info regardless... Update so my new motor will be installed next week sometime my Hyundai dealer is being very cooperative and put me in a rental no questions asked.. I have not heard the actual cause of the motor failure yet but am curious.. wonder what the manufacture opinion will be on my driving style trying to achieve their manufacture epa ratings
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:33 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thymeclock View Post
It's not about feeling safe - it's about being safe. The less tread that is left on a tire, the less effective it is if you need to stop quickly.
So, mud grips on the interstate year round? I don't recommend slicks either, but the only time I'll replace a set before it's at the wear bars is if they're getting close and winter's starting. I just don't feel safe going into winter with tires that are on their way out. Unless you are going to be facing really adverse conditions, take 'em down to the wear bars. Unless you don't feel safe doing that. Replacing tires (in normal usage) before they call for it isn't about being safe - it's about feeling safe.
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:16 PM   #35 (permalink)
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High throttle setting at low rpms puts a lot of heat into piston head and cylinder driving the temperature up. Mechanically driven water pump is also moving slowly not pulling hot coolant out. A lot of manufacturers derate the engines output by very conservative ignition timing during the "break in period" for reasons of warrantee. This is programed into the ECU. After 10,000 miles the spark curve moves closer to optimum thus improving power and fuel mileage. Biggest reason almost all new vehicles use drive by wire throttling now is to keep the engine operating outside of conditions of self destruction.
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:36 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokey442 View Post
High throttle setting at low rpms puts a lot of heat into piston head and cylinder driving the temperature up. Mechanically driven water pump is also moving slowly not pulling hot coolant out. A lot of manufacturers derate the engines output by very conservative ignition timing during the "break in period" for reasons of warrantee. This is programed into the ECU. After 10,000 miles the spark curve moves closer to optimum thus improving power and fuel mileage. Biggest reason almost all new vehicles use drive by wire throttling now is to keep the engine operating outside of conditions of self destruction.
who'd a thought!!!!
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:21 PM   #37 (permalink)
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so my car is back now and as good as new.. has a new motor and all is well now.. not a .01 out my pocket and my rental was covered as well.. my service department told me to drive it as I always have and not perform any kind of break in... odd but I agreed.. hoping that once the motor hits 10k + i'll see better numbers since running this paticular motor slow apparently isn't very good..
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:19 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 1812rob View Post
Hello new member here.. bought a new hyundai Veloster (m/t) with hopes of getting at least the epa ratings but have failed thus far... I'm no stranger to driving slow for mpg i used to have a Mazda that had an instant gauge but the Hyundai doesn't. It only has an average. I've ordered a bluetooth adapter to use my phone to monitor for now. I've already put my tires just below sidewall rating and I've been logging on fuelly with my best being 39 when I'm rated at 40hwy.

Hoping to exceed that 40 mark soon.

Anyone else on the forum have the 12' Veloster or elantra(same motor)
??? My wife's car is a '12 Elantra (AT) with a 40 mpg EPA highway rating, but it's got a 2 liter multiport injection engine. Your Veloster has a 1.6 liter GDI engine.

Driving 60-65 mph with tires inflated to sidewall max, we averaged 44.7 mpg for 1080 miles of highway travel last December. Driving the PSL (up to 80 mph in central TX) with tires inflated to 32 psi, we averaged 35.4 mpg for 1280 highway miles during the same trip.

It's a whole new ball game for you with a new engine. I expect you to beat the EPA with the new engine.

BTW, you're a little more than an hour from me. We've organized a couple of Ecomodder get-togethers here that were good learning experiences for everyone involved.
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:42 PM   #39 (permalink)
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1812rob I am glad that your story had a happy ending. Did dealership tell you what failed on the original engine?

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