New to ECO modding

[Fat Charlie]

Bluetooth is a fine communications protocol, but losing the connection when EOCing or someone calls me makes for bad trip data. The UG also had the advantage of being cheaper and smaller than any tablet and mounts easily right in front of some dead space on the cluster- where I want to look for information.

But Torque is really slick. I went away from it for hardware reasons that Torque wasn't responsible for. I really liked it.

[bentring]

Originally Posted by 2009Toyotoad

What do you think about the smart phone App "Torque Pro " paired with a Bluetooth OBD II (ECM brand) device? I like ScanGauge, but have not seen UltraGauge. but the Torque Pro App appears to be very tunable. Ultimately, these are testing tools not likely to be permanently mounted in my car. they will be used to test the impacts of mods.

I use Torque Pro. Well worth the few dollars it costs, and there's a free version you could try before buying.

I use it with this OBD II reader, which comes with it's own Android app (Iphones need to use a wifi device IIRC), as well as a Windows program that I haven't, and probably never will, use.

[2009Toyotoad]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

You might find some spots to take dead weight away, replacing some body panels with custom-made aerodynamically-enhanced ones made out of a lighter material, modding the interior trim, whatever you'd still feel comfortable enought to trade off.

There is not much weight to trade away. The uni-body weighs 524 lbs. The only real removable parts are the doors, front quarter panels, hood, and the hatch back itself. I've had my eye on a carbon fiber replacement hood, but they are pricey, and I'm not sure what the weight saving really adds up too, but I'm still interested. the quarter panels are the smallest I've sinve on any car.Very thin sheet metal.

Replacing the stock steel wheels and hubcaps cut 26.4lbs net. The Sparco alloy replacements look considerably better.

Last night, I changed out the stock air box for a TRD CAI. believe it or not the steel bracket holding the plastic box to the frame was not flimsy or light.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by 2009Toyotoad

There is not much weight to trade away.

Even if there is not so much weight to eliminate, there is still some room for improvement. Have you never even considered to replace the glasses for some plexiglass? Could also eventually consider a single-blade wiper, since it not just saves a few ounces but can also reduce the drag.

I've had my eye on a carbon fiber replacement hood, but they are pricey, and I'm not sure what the weight saving really adds up too, but I'm still interested. the quarter panels are the smallest I've sinve on any car.Very thin sheet metal.

It may seem kinda odd, but some carbon fiber hoods are actually heavier than the sheetmetal ones.

[2009Toyotoad]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

Even if there is not so much weight to eliminate, there is still some room for improvement. Have you never even considered to replace the glasses for some plexiglass? Could also eventually consider a single-blade wiper, since it not just saves a few ounces but can also reduce the drag.It may seem kinda odd, but some carbon fiber hoods are actually heavier than the sheetmetal ones.

I considered plexiglass but rejected it out of safety concerns. As the car has both side air bags and rollover airbags plexiglass lacks the flexibility needed to support airbag deployment.

I was in limbo about the carbon fiber hood for the very reason you mention. Without making a few phone calls its hard to determine shipping weight from the actual weight of the hood. Carbon fiber hoods or any large of auto body panels also a history of shipping damage in a minority but still relevant number of cases. There are a few on e-bay advertised as used, but again without assurance that the original shipping crate/container will be sent, Who knows what condition the part will be in upon arrival.

For practical purposes the Yaris is a single wiper blade system. As the passenger side is this tiny runt of a blade with little value to cleaning the windshield. There may be a way to improve the front cowl to reduce the effects of the wipers but the windshield is already fairly well sloped, by economy car standards.

I have found a couple of Aluminum under panel options for the front end which seem reasonably priced for an engineered piece/ fitment. I may start in that direction for Aero mods. I just received my lightweight crankshaft pulley last night so it will be installed this weekend. Originally I planned to hold that piece in reserve until the powertrain build this late summer or fall, but I've got a suspension rear sway bar to install so I may as well tackle them both.

I'm also considering a front splitter and rear diffuser. but I'm still reading up on the pluses and minuses of that mod. At this point, a boat tale is not in the cards as I lack fabrication space, but canards are a possible alternative. The more I read about Coroplast the less I'm inclined to use it under a car. Its a diverse group of manufacturers and heat tolerance seems to vary quite a bit from one manufacturer to another. UV resistence is another concern with the product.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by 2009Toyotoad

The more I read about Coroplast the less I'm inclined to use it under a car. Its a diverse group of manufacturers and heat tolerance seems to vary quite a bit from one manufacturer to another. UV resistence is another concern with the product.

I'm also kinda skeptical about coroplast for underbody pans. I'd rather use even marine-grade plywood instead. You might be aware that it's used even in off-road racing vehicles since it can stand some impacts.

[deejaaa]

Originally Posted by 2009Toyotoad

.....drafting will get the red lights behind you in a hurry out here. Its my understanding that to be effective you need to get close enough to be out of the turbulence wave coming off the "draftee" so it depends on how big the draftee is. It might be possible with an 18 wheeler but not with an SUV or cargo Van......

Originally Posted by Fat Charlie

The first hardware upgrade is either a ScanGauge or UltraGauge. Even before it's properly calibrated, the instant mpg numbers are useful- you can watch the effects of other traffic on you.
.....

Originally Posted by Fat Charlie

......UltraGauge plugs into the OBD connector.......

the point is, a gauge will let you know where the drafting sweet spot is. it depends on a lot of things: speed, size of vehicle to draft, winds; head vs cross, types of road.
without a proper gauge to go by, it's just a guess of what your vehicle is doing, or wait till the next fill up, then it's a guess what went wrong/right.
i know, within a few points, what my mileage is going to be way before i fill up. beginning of this week i had strong headwinds, few days of rain. really dropped mileage. got lucky and had tailwinds with clear skies the rest of the week and am on target for another 58-60 mpg, all thanks to Ultragauge.

[digital rules]

Agreed, instrumentation is vital to maximizing results. Instant feedback can make an instant hypermiler out of anyone with little effort.