Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > Off-Topic Tech
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 02-04-2013, 03:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 52
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I think I could probably gear it down directly off of the engine before going to the clutch to drastically improve use capability by cutting down on the input rpms , because torque seems like the easy to handle aspect of my dilemma. its just allowing the components to engage and disengage how they need to and limit the wear.

  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 02-04-2013, 11:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 52
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Well finish some basic drafting of the configuration just the major internals that are being changed.

Boxer 4 engine configuration cylinders perfectly aligned with one another , everything should perfectly cancel as far as order harmonics go. futher design details ill have to get into is sufficient oiling , stress , wear...

constant 90 degree vector force applied on the crankshaft ALOT simpler than other designs I have stumbled across online which compared to those is ridiculous how they are so complicated and so different than current engine technologies... Mine should be easily able to transition or be implemented with current engine technology even if a new block has to be recast old design parts can be used, all that is needed is sorting out besides what I mentioned is the one way clutch which is exterior mounted which I will run accessories off of around the circumference edge along with valve train if i dont do a pushrod , actuator driven cam , or 2 stroke direct injection design leaning toward two stroke but without direct injection just for the prototype for simplicity if possible. Front face plate is how rest of drivetrain will be bolted to the engine unless I determine another way of making the clutch easier to be replaced depending on its cycle life and trade off.
  Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 02:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 52
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
http://www.emersonindustrial.com/en-...Form_8993E.pdf

Further in the pdf it lists torque capacities AND overrun speeds , cycle lifes. Seems like I can get them to be durable enough the biggest thing is gearing down the input into the clutch to not excede the rpm's , and the cost of the clutches. The sizes dont look like they would be impractically too big.
  Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2013, 11:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 52
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have some plastic parts coming in that should be easily able to make a working small scale prototype , or atleast a proof on concept model.

always nice to find parts for under 10 bucks that will work and not break the bank , little to no special manufacturing and techniques needed to produce most of the components.

I will try to have video results , pictures , data if im able to without giving away too much

ive also found some cheap sprag clutches on ebay , one in particular that seems interesting 1.85OD , 0.79ID , and 0.55WIDE/thick all in inches converted from mm , that supposeably can handle 29ft/lb of torque and weights only .11 of a gram IF the specs are correct , unsure of the rpm capability but might be a clutch I will end up using for the proof of concept model. Based on this , and the pdf document I am pretty confident it can hold up with the right setup.

Last edited by 88FieroGT; 02-09-2013 at 12:01 AM..
  Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2013, 05:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 52
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
My plastic parts from ebay came in , just got a arrange them and bond them how they need to be , I have 2 one way clutches coming in , so I should be able to get a working arrangement soon things are slowly falling together and still confident in the design.
  Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2013, 11:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
EV OR DIESEL
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 1,748

FarFarfrumpumpen - '03 Volkswagen Jetta Wagon GLS Premium

Quorra - '12 Tesla Model S P85
Thanks: 57
Thanked 107 Times in 83 Posts
Send a message via AIM to dremd
One Way Bearings & Clutches: VXB.com Ball Bearings

I'd assume you would want something like that, but larger.
For reliability/ sizing check out one way alternator pulleys such as the ones used on my TDI, mine still worked at 260k, many fail around 200k.

Interested/ subscribed.
FYI: I have both a CNC plasma and a 3d printer in shop, hit me up if you need some adapter/ prototype.
__________________
2012 Tesla Model S P85
2013 Nissan LEAF SV totaled by now deceased intoxacated driver.
2012 Nissan LEAF SV
6 speed ALH TDI Swapped in to a 2003 Jetta Wagon
  Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2013, 11:55 PM   #17 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 52
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Few things have came up dont want to bore and lecture the details.

But basically design changes have came back into my mind because realized further things could utilize because of the natural ability of the engine design...

so the design change that i originally wrote off from being an unbalanced engine design was 2 cylinder , which although combusts or fires opposite of each other , has the same harmonics as a one cylinder minus the rotational vibration and imbalance it only have the vibration from tdc to bdc reversion...

Unsure of actually how bad this is , but I know my 4 cylinder design is completely free of all those vibrations because everything is mimiced oppositely with no offset with this design.

So basically I am trying to find out exactly how bad the vibrations are and how they would affect the reliability of the motor , could anybody help me out here help sway me to a decision please.
  Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2013, 01:48 AM   #18 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 52
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thinking of going with the two cylinder design , unsure of it I'll be able to incorporate any crankshaft counterbalancing however or if i'll need to. But I like the simple path makes things alot easier manufacturing and design wise especially in the early prototype stages along with doing it with subpar materials , design , tolerances... I.E ... popsicle sticks , carbboard , plastic , etc... however for my prototype I need to get some new pieces because the one way clutch bearings i have are too big for my design or the other parts are too small...

The two cylinder model , I dont think needs an extremely heavy crankshaft like usual compared to multicylinder engines since its more closely related to a one cylinder in design. So i should be able to still have a decent power density the only downside is vibrations hopefully I can work something out and it be really simple.
  Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 11:40 PM   #19 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 52
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I havent gotten other sized parts that I need to make the two cylinder design work , because the shafts are spaced too far apart to work the way I had planned..

Havent had time , but just need to get it setup good enough in a "block" to hold the shafts still during operation and the rough design is good to go.

The other design of the flat 4 however are spaced how I originally set them up to be and even without a block producing the rotation how I want with the one way clutches engaging and disengaging how I want. So the 2 cylinder design will work exactly the same way except for parts not being optimal sizing.
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2013, 06:58 PM   #20 (permalink)
home of the odd vehicles
 
rmay635703's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Somewhere in WI
Posts: 3,488

Silver - '10 Chevy Cobalt XFE
Thanks: 395
Thanked 741 Times in 556 Posts
Anyone ever consider using one of these on a honda insight G1?

i would think a slightly modified version of this could be used to decouple the the gasser from the ev section, trouble would be having a lockup mode and then a mode where the EV side can freewheel. i wonder if the motor and imA could be separated enough to fit in such a cludge?

  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread


Thread Tools




Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com