Some more pics.
This is how I lifted the transaxle in. It was not dropped in from above. It was rolled under the car on a low dolly. The chain hoist was hung from the reinforced rafters above, aligned with a plum bob, the chain was lowered through the engine compartment, hooked on to the bracket and raised up. This allows the transaxle to be manipulated very easily which is fantastic because it needs to be tilted to easily clear the flywheel. The hood could be removed to give the required space for the chains but I just loosened it and propped it up further back with a longer rod.
This could be done with a regular engine hoist too, just drop it down instead of lifting it up
In the first picture the hoist is mounted in front of the car so I could lift the transaxle high enough to remove the seals and attach various brackets.
My transaxle lift bracket. Bolted just beside the bleeder nipple. It's a 1.5" x 3" x 3/8 thick flat bar drilled for the 1/2 inch x 5" high strength ready rod. You could use a grade 5 or better 1/2" bolt here too but it should be 5" or longer total to be able to balance and tilt the transaxle.
Here the transaxle is tilted down to the right to clear the flywheel and the frame on the right side. Note the position of the hook on the bolt. Balanced is to the extreme outside of the bolt.
That's where it sits. I'm leaving it there for "insurance" purposes.
This is the shot of the extra pin which gave me a start until I realized that it came from the last ICE. The confirmation was a paint stripe on the end of the pin when I got it out so It must have been pulled from the ICE side.
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