Paul and Sabrina's Cheap 3 Phase Inverter (AC Controller) with Field Oriented Control

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by chimchichclick

hello im a newer. im know that the motor parameter is very very important in this FOC.we need it to estimate angle roto flux. im used to use it in my project with TI chip (f28069 ) but i have so many experiment to find some parameter (when i at experiment lab in school ) . about Tr = Lr/Rr = Rotor time constant. and if we need sensorless we need more parameter to estimate speed. but now my motor dont have them.its just have volt/apm/speed... .and i cant do experiment because i dont have enough equipment like when i at school. So. if u have a solution about this. pls help me. we will disccuss about this. thank u. and sorry for the Bad english skill lollll )

The method that Paul appears to be using is to start with a table of motor parameters (guesses) and try them. The motor gets a .. maybe 50 ms? pulse from the controller and the controller measures 'locked rotor' results.

Then the next set of motor parameters is loaded from the table. Another 50 ms test is sent to the motor and the results measured.

And it continues through the table until the results are so good that Paul's logic hits a 'match' or until all of the parameters have been tried and the logic selects the best match that is not quite perfect.

You don't need your own equipment to measure your motor inductance, reactance, rotor constant, etc. The controller does it. It was a bit rough the first few times I ran it. I think it is a lot easier to use now.

Paul's code for ATTiny - I have but have not gone through. It is attached.

[thingstodo]

Paul - I see the bare AC controller boards on your site.

Do you have an option to populate the board but no IGBTs and no ring cap? If not, please add my name to the list of people who would like this as a product.

I had mentioned that I have a large number of industrial VFDs that need brain transplants. The IGBTs and caps are fine. The control boards have lost regulators, their Inputs have blown up, maybe the DC/DC is cooked, etc. And they were a PITA to program even when they were running.

If it takes a group of us to make a decent quantity order, so you can get reasonable pricing on the parts, what would that quantity be?

I have about 25 VFDs needing their new brains but my wife would resist buying all of the control boards at the same time ... and it would take me 2 years to get them all installed!

Last question - any plans to use the AC controller to do an off-grid AC inverter sized for a house? On paper, the AC controller board *SHOULD* have the hardware to do it ...

[e*clipse]

I'll second thingstodo's requests. Especially the off-grid solar one!


- E*clipse

[chimchichclick]

omg! thank all you very very much !!

[chimchichclick]

wait !we need : 1batterry + 1 DC capacity +1 controller board +1 encoder+ 3 current sensor+ 3 IGBT+ 1 ACIM motor . what else we need guys ?? sorry for noob !

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by chimchichclick

wait !we need : 1batterry + 1 DC capacity +1 controller board +1 encoder+ 3 current sensor+ 3 IGBT+ 1 ACIM motor . what else we need guys ?? sorry for noob !

Is 1 DC capacity a capacitor?

To make the car go, you would also need
- a charger
- an adapter plate from the motor to the transmission (or the drive shaft if you are skipping the transmission)
- a throttle. The hall effect throttle signal is from about 0.5V at minimum to about 4.5V at maximum
- FUSES! At least one fuse at your pack voltage
- contactors. A high current contactor like a Tyco Kilovac or a Gigavac to connect the battery pack to the controller
- precharge resistor. The controller should have a precharge contactor, which puts power to the precharge resistor and charges the large ring capacitor slowly (under 1 second)
- Heat sink for the IGBTs. They carry a lot of current and heat up, so you need cooling fins at least. Paul is using liquid cooling for the aluminum plate that the IGBTs are bolted to.
- Cables that will handle the current you plan to use. Paul is using #4, but you can go bigger between the controller and the motor. And the cable lugs to put on the ends of the cable, connecting the motor to the controller
- Cables that handle the smaller current from the battery pack to the controller, with lugs, and an orange jacket so that emergency personnel know to cut the cables in case of an accident
- A serial cable if you want to show information from the controller inside the car
- an inertia switch to detect that you are in an accident, that shuts off the contactors

[wehzeh]

still no word wit the updated schematics/code?

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by wehzeh

still no word wit the updated schematics/code?

I have no new code, no schematics.

Paul must be busy with other things ...

[MPaulHolmes]

Oops ya. I can send the current state of things somewhere. I forgot, what was the email I can use to send the stuff? I am really busy with my jobs right now.

[wehzeh]

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

Oops ya. I can send the current state of things somewhere. I forgot, what was the email I can use to send the stuff? I am really busy with my jobs right now.

If you PM me I can give you my e-mail address. GDrive/dropbox/git works too.