04-13-2014, 12:23 PM
|
#841 (permalink)
|
|
PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
Posts: 3,832
Thanks: 1,362
Thanked 1,202 Times in 765 Posts
|
Thanks guys! Things are always able to happen so much faster when money doesn't get in the way. I'll get those boards done up soon. The DC controller board (which is being soldered right as I type, well, like a few minutes ago) will give me a chance to verify a lot of the things the AC board will have.
|
|
|
|
 Today
|
|
|
|
Other popular topics in this forum...
|
|
|
|
|
04-21-2014, 11:12 PM
|
#842 (permalink)
|
|
EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: seattle
Posts: 23
Thanks: 33
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
|
This is one to be excited for!!
Sly Skills Tech
Erik
|
|
|
|
|
06-25-2014, 09:30 PM
|
#844 (permalink)
|
|
EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: seattle
Posts: 23
Thanks: 33
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
|
ladida
hello world
|
|
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to 4x4EV For This Useful Post:
|
|
|
07-02-2014, 11:18 AM
|
#845 (permalink)
|
|
PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
Posts: 3,832
Thanks: 1,362
Thanked 1,202 Times in 765 Posts
|
I ordered the 2 600v 1000uF ring caps yesterday for the 2 prototypes. The 600v 600amp igbts also arrived, but that was several weeks ago. I still haven't ordered the boards yet. I'm waiting to see how this driver section works under power in the DC case. It's the same IGBTs, so if it works well in that case, it should be OK in the AC case.
|
|
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to MPaulHolmes For This Useful Post:
|
|
|
07-04-2014, 02:38 AM
|
#846 (permalink)
|
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: northwest of normal
Posts: 28,557
Thanks: 8,092
Thanked 8,881 Times in 7,329 Posts
|
I have some questions and this thread seems as likely as any.
I have a VW Beetle donor vehicle. I have some small opportunity to do an electric conversion on it (a line of credit at a local shop in exchange for title to a vehicle). I have reviewed the $2200 conversion you, OP, did. On the other hand, for ideological reasons I'd prefer an AC conversion.
Can you point to some threads, or pages within this one, that address my concerns?
|
|
|
|
|
07-11-2014, 06:54 PM
|
#847 (permalink)
|
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saskatoon, canada
Posts: 1,488
Thanks: 746
Thanked 565 Times in 447 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard
I have some questions and this thread seems as likely as any... I have reviewed the $2200 conversion you, OP, did. On the other hand, for ideological reasons I'd prefer an AC conversion.
|
I may not have the answers you are looking for, but I'll share what I know.
I'm not familiar with the $2200 conversion you speak of. Or perhaps I just don't know the price? |
|
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to thingstodo For This Useful Post:
|
|
|
07-11-2014, 08:08 PM
|
#848 (permalink)
|
|
PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
Posts: 3,832
Thanks: 1,362
Thanked 1,202 Times in 765 Posts
|
Oh ya! My EV conversion cost $2200 before credit card interest. haha. You could do an AC conversion. One limit is the very high voltage associated with it. But maybe you could build a boost stage that takes maybe 150v and sends it up to 300v, and then use that for the bus for the AC controller.
The 2 film caps arrived yesterday. So, I have the IGBTs, cap... Now I'm waiting on performance data from the DC controllers (the driver section) to see if I need to change anything for the AC driver section before I send that board in to be manufactured. Then it's easy peasy, japanezy. bam done! haha. more or less.
|
|
|
|
|
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to MPaulHolmes For This Useful Post:
|
|
|
07-11-2014, 09:28 PM
|
#849 (permalink)
|
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: northwest of normal
Posts: 28,557
Thanks: 8,092
Thanked 8,881 Times in 7,329 Posts
|
Thank you both. I should probably start a new thread. But this is a new area for me, I'm not sure how to frame it.
Things I have picked up on along the way are the MIT inwheel motor and Protean Electric's inwheel motor. Its seems to me the 72-100hp Protean motor could be mated to a differential and slotted into the 'tuning-fork' shape of the chassis.
But I don't want to stray too far from the mainstream of thought here. |
|
|
|
|
07-12-2014, 01:08 AM
|
#850 (permalink)
|
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saskatoon, canada
Posts: 1,488
Thanks: 746
Thanked 565 Times in 447 Posts
|
In-wheel would be awesome!
Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard
|
In-wheel motors are a favorite topic of mine. I've read about several - press releases over the years, feature articles - but I have yet to see one up close. Many are announced but none ever appear to hit production except for the bicycle versions. Rumor has it that they don't last as long as the tires do, in the 20,000 to 50,000 km range.
A mechanical engineer that I work with (no experience with wheel motors, but he has more background than I do) tells me that it would be tough to make a wheel motor with one bearing that would maintain the clearances used in a motor - thousandths of an inch - while taking the punishment that a tire on a car does when you hit pot-holes. But that's just an opinion. Some of the suspension-in-a-rim systems look promising.
Using two bearings, one per side, works in many other applications but makes it a bit difficult to change the tire 
I like your idea of pulling the motor out of the wheel and putting it somewhere safer, then coupling to the wheel with a differential. Differentials have been used successfully for a long time. The only differentials I have dealt with also do a gear reduction. Something designed as a wheel motor would likely not require the gear reduction, so that may be a bit of a challenge. But that sort of mod is *WAY* above my mechanical skill level ... so I'll just leave it at that.
|
|
|
|
|
