Paul & Sabrina's cheap DIY 144v motor controller

[bigh]

Originally Posted by adamj12b

Yes, I believe that we will be doing another group buy for these. They will be slightly higher price. Maybe $10 more each max. Shipping to Australia wont be cheep though. It was $45 USD to ship them to Jack in Ireland. I would expect the same. I will add you to the list for 4 and give the total needed to be filled tomorrow. I got to got to bed now, I have a pounding headache. Goodnight!

-Adam

Thanks Adam, Its ok i've shipped items from the USA before. USPS is usually the cheapest, then UPS/FedEX. What is the exact model of the IGBT in the group buy?

hope you feel better!

[jackbauer]

More action :

[jackbauer]

Up and running! I'm a bit concerned if the dc dc and drive circuit can handle the load of 4 devices. the top of the wave looks a little "bumpy" ........... Mabey the igbts have been reading too many peak oil books.

[jyanof]

Originally Posted by jackbauer

Up and running! I'm a bit concerned if the dc dc and drive circuit can handle the load of 4 devices.

sweet! it looks like 12V on the scope - is that the gate voltage using the original drive circuit on the control board? Any plans for a dedicated 15V "on" voltage with negative "off" voltage? I know adam has plans for something like that, but if you are using the original hardware, I'm curious how it works.

Also, looks like it's at 8khz - these IGBT's are rated up to 20khz, any plans to push it back to 16khz?

edit:
with regards to the waviness - it looks like the paths from driver to gate are significantly longer than before (though I don't know what your current IGBT setup looks like - maybe it's about the same?). But, I've read that keeping these paths short will reduce parasitic inductance that can lead to 'gate ringing'. The gate capacitance basically forms an LC oscillator with this inductance. I'd think you'd get a much higher frequency 'ring' though...

[jackbauer]

yep i'm running a 12v dc dc but i've ordered a 15v. Dont know why i got a 12v in the first place. Also the decoupling caps on the driver are wrong. .1uf instead of 4.7uf so i'll be changing that. Once i have these mods done i'll see what happens then try for 16khz.

I've no plans to introduce a negative gate drive at this time. If it ain't broke ....

[adamj12b]

Originally Posted by jyanof

with regards to the waviness - it looks like the paths from driver to gate are significantly longer than before (though I don't know what your current IGBT setup looks like - maybe it's about the same?). But, I've read that keeping these paths short will reduce parasitic inductance that can lead to 'gate ringing'. The gate capacitance basically forms an LC oscillator with this inductance. I'd think you'd get a much higher frequency 'ring' though...

I talked to Fran today who recommended using powerex modules and he said that he has observed this ringing in his designs and its completely normal.

I cant wait to get the ones I have built into power stages for my controller now!!

-Adam

[wakinyantanka]

Originally Posted by adamj12b

I talked to Fran today who recommended using powerex modules and he said that he has observed this ringing in his designs and its completely normal.

I cant wait to get the ones I have built into power stages for my controller now!!

-Adam

I thought any kind of ringing in the gate circuit was bad? I was told that signal needs to be as clean as possible otherwise you can go up in smoke when under heavy load.
Keep in mind I know just enough about this to be dangerous.

[ludiagsm]

Finally i receive mine Altrax i purchase it before i met you guys and today i made one test on 24 volts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2BSEdwlNBo

Mine gas pedal was one small 4,7k trimer Have a lot to do and finally i hope to build one 144v 500-600 amp controller and put in car one powerfull motor. However it's nice to drive an electric car very quiet thing

[asyx]

nice job!

[MPaulHolmes]

OK! Houston we have a problem!

I have sent out about 10 of the LEM HAS 300-S (digikey sent me the wrong part, and I just now discovered this). You need the LEM HASS 300-S (HASS. NOT HAS). I'm going to email everybody that may have gotten the wrong sensor, but I'm posting pictures here for people to check. If you got the wrong sensor, I'll pay for shipping back to me, and then Digikey will reimburse me. Then they will send me the correct sensors, and I'll mail them to you:

This is picture 1 of the HAS 300-S (the wrong current sensor, that must be exchanged):


Here's picture 2 of the HAS 300-S (the wrong current sensor, that must be exchanged):


Here's a picture of the CORRECT current sensor. The LEM HASS 300-S:


Here's another picture of the CORRECT current sensor:


So, if your controller mysteriously isn't working, then this could be it! Hey Ben! I bet this is the problem!