Paul & Sabrina's cheap DIY 144v motor controller - Page 330 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

MPaulHolmes · 04-01-2010, 09:16 PM

So it was a B+ B- issue? I need to make that much clearer. You aren't the only one that was confused by the directions on that. Maybe I'll write it directly onto the etched power boards. Thank you! Good work! ya! Did you have any trouble with soldering to the ground plane? Any helpful suggestions for people trying to do that?

Flatmann100 · 04-01-2010, 10:55 PM

I think if you simply say that PH1, and PH2 are attached to the B- side of the board adjacent to the isolated gate resistor islands will help.

You know just writing this here will let the builders know. When they get to the bus bar part of the assembly instructions they will label the B- and B+ on the copper at that time like I did.

In any case a low volt system check is a good idea as a 1st test, otherwise like you said: its way scary to think about throwing full pack voltage to system. I wear gloves, long sleeve cotton shirt, and face shield, for making up connections and testing after any alterations of the cables. Plasma is best kept in the movies.

I have 4 solder irons from 12 to 230 Watts, all with nice tips. Too much heat at the tip can ruin your whole day. I checked each solder point as I attached the parts. Then looked carefully at each with a good magnifying glass. I used a heat sink to protect the components.

I know I'll do a better job on the next one I build.... hehe

MPaulHolmes · 04-01-2010, 11:07 PM

I'll do that! Man, 4 soldering irons. This guy wasn't messing around! ya!

E Vdubya · 04-02-2010, 04:05 PM

"I followed your instructions to the letter. I think they say when your finished attaching the copper bars the B+ is the one on top. That's fine but after doing that you flip the assembly over to finish the build on the power section."

Gee! That sounds familiar.

Good job Flatmann

Flatmann100 · 04-02-2010, 05:11 PM

You too eh, they can't fault us for following the instructions.... Paul is the teacher and we is grasshopper.

Started using my car again. It has better takeoff and 0-25 acceleration than before. But I kinda expected that.

squiggles · 04-02-2010, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

I'll do that! Man, 4 soldering irons. This guy wasn't messing around! ya!

The trick with soldering is to think of thermal mass. If you are trying to heat up something that is going to suck up a lot of heat your soldering iron needs to have mass, not a matter of being hotter but having more stored energy. Otherwise the target sucks out all the heat from the iron before it is hot enough to solder.

Also with circuit boards you want this all to happen relatively quickly, having to much heat in the PCB for too long will weaken the structure. You will see this with fine track work, the tracks will start to lift from the board.

dave koller · 04-02-2010, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squiggles

The trick with soldering is to think of thermal mass. If you are trying to heat up something that is going to suck up a lot of heat your soldering iron needs to have mass, not a matter of being hotter but having more stored energy. Otherwise the target sucks out all the heat from the iron before it is hot enough to solder.

Also with circuit boards you want this all to happen relatively quickly, having to much heat in the PCB for too long will weaken the structure. You will see this with fine track work, the tracks will start to lift from the board.

Most defiantly!! I use my Weller 800 degree cranked up to max with a fine, long point and solder boards QUICK, LOL! But big buss bars really suck away the heat as you say.. I think on boards it is getting used to moving fast with the higher heat - would not recommend it for people just starting out... I have been doing it for a LONG time.. small pads - move fast - large ground planes move slower - it gets to be like welding