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Old 03-10-2012, 06:15 PM   #5531 (permalink)
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Is this 144V controller suitable for 250V 11" Kostov motors?

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Old 03-10-2012, 06:27 PM   #5532 (permalink)
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yes.
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:20 PM   #5533 (permalink)
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Any modification needed for 250V? What is the risk of using with 250V?
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:52 PM   #5534 (permalink)
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Hey guys any updates on the 1000 amp revolt? how is it doing in the field?
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Old 03-10-2012, 11:09 PM   #5535 (permalink)
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It wouldnt' work at 250v. It would blow up, since the components are rated for 200v. I finished a driver board, control board, and power board for a high side 350v DC (or so) controller though with film caps. 600v TO-247 IGBTs and diodes, and 450v film caps. I just need to send it in. It would only be rated for around 400 amp though.

The last 1000 amp controller blew up, but there were extenuating circumstances. Some of it was a software mistake and a miscalibrated current sensor. I'm finishing up another one which is low side drive, but with 6 isolated supplies. It will be done hopefully by tomorrow or monday.
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Old 03-10-2012, 11:13 PM   #5536 (permalink)
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Hey Paul, getting ready to get the 500 amp controller and was wondering what version of the chip/program will ship with it?

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Old 03-10-2012, 11:19 PM   #5537 (permalink)
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Hello! The 500 amp controller is 1.11C. The only change from Fran's code is a bug fix with the high pedal lockout, and if pwm goes to 100% but current is zero, then it generates a fault. That's to avoid failures from having a contactor connected to the throttle. Like if you step on the throttle just a hair, but not enough to close the contactor, but enough for the microcontroller to think that it's non-zero throttle, the pwm duty will ramp up to 100%, trying to command nonzero current.
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:57 PM   #5538 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
It wouldnt' work at 250v. It would blow up, since the components are rated for 200v. I finished a driver board, control board, and power board for a high side 350v DC (or so) controller though with film caps. 600v TO-247 IGBTs and diodes, and 450v film caps. I just need to send it in. It would only be rated for around 400 amp though.

The last 1000 amp controller blew up, but there were extenuating circumstances. Some of it was a software mistake and a miscalibrated current sensor. I'm finishing up another one which is low side drive, but with 6 isolated supplies. It will be done hopefully by tomorrow or monday.




Can you share schematics, BOM,firmware etc. of your controller? This will be ok for 250V too, right?

Can I also use 144V controller with 192V Kostov 11s? You mentioned components are rated for 200V.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:20 PM   #5539 (permalink)
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If it's a DC motor, running at a little higher or lower voltage isn't a big deal, the motor will just spin faster or slower.

Most electric motors that are higher voltage, such as 200-300 volts are usually AC. DC motors in that range would be very unusual.

AC motors need very different control than DC. Always make sure you know what you have. AC and DC are two very different things when it comes to motors.

I just looked up the Kostov brand. Yipes! They make some big DC motors!
http://kostov-motors.com/tractionmot...ctricvehicles/

They have a couple of DC motors that are rated for pretty high voltage. The Open Revolt will work fine with those motors, but you will have to keep the charged battery pack voltage lower than 200VDC.

You probably wouldn't want to do more than a 156V nominal battery pack. It would still run a Kostov fine, it just won't spin as fast as it would at a higher voltage.
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Last edited by bennelson; 03-13-2012 at 10:27 PM.. Reason: Looked them up.
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:19 AM   #5540 (permalink)
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Hello
I wonder, what is the point of control the +12V from the DC/DC for driving fet's.
If there is not present, the fet's can't open any way.

Is there open the battery contactor, if the alarm UV Fault is present.

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