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Old 04-23-2012, 05:38 PM   #5691 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennelson View Post
I've blown up several controllers, or at least the same controller several times, but never had any trouble with the motor, yet.
Fixed it for ya!

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Old 04-23-2012, 06:23 PM   #5692 (permalink)
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Well, given enough time and screw-ups, something is bound to happen. When it does, I'll let everyone know.

I've learned from all sorts of awesome mistakes, like that brake fluid is flammable, don't short circuit 144V, and not to mount a camera low enough on an electric motorcycle that it scrapes the road on a left-hand turn!

If I ever blow my motor, you will be the first to know!
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:44 PM   #5693 (permalink)
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Thanks Ben!

The reason I asked is because I will be running 120vdc in my Geo Storm (if and when I get it done). So I was trying to find out what I should look for and if it would be safe to overvolt it. I know motors usually have a Service Factor on them (usually 1.0, 1.15, or 1.25) and was wondering if you had calculated the overvoltage by the service factor. But since the dataplate wasn't available, I guess you just experimented with it.

In your opinion, what would be a decent price for a used motor (forklift)? I can't seem to find a used Advanced DC or Warp 9 anywhere at the moment so thought I might look at forklift motors.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:52 AM   #5694 (permalink)
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I'm running a fork lift motor in my Toyota pickup at 120 volts. It works great with Paul's controller! I bought it from an outfit in Elgin, IL that has a lot of used and junked forklifts; there must be something like that in your neighborhood. The thread that Ben refers to is excellent - it talks about what to look for, how to advance the motor, etc. I highly recommend that you read it. Good luck!
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Old 04-24-2012, 03:50 PM   #5695 (permalink)
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I am also using a forklift motor. It is an 11" GE from a Hyster lift. I am running at 144 volts. The only thing I did , was wipe the grease from it. It is in a Ranger. It is heavy 250 pounds. The price was $50 from a lift repair shop. That is what they thought is was worth for salvage.

While I was there I got the pump motor. It is an 8" GE 100 pounds. Price was free. In the past few weeks I put this motor in an MGB. Running it at 120 volts and have a fan to blow air through it.

Use all the money you can for lithium batteries. The cheap lead ones I have are not worth the money for use in an EV.

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Old 04-25-2012, 03:57 AM   #5696 (permalink)
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Congratulations!!!

Finally I made it!!! And after reading it all, PLEASE RECEIVE MY ADMIRATION!!!
Especially for Paul, who started this magnificent thread, Adam, Jack, Ben, Camaro, Ludiagsm, Joe (back in 90-ies Eagle was my second favorite car brand after Renault: my boss bought Summit – it looks great) , and all that participated!!!
It’s been more than 6 years than I decided to convert a car, but it seems too expensive…
I read so many treads how people succeeded – from EValbum I learn that here in Bulgaria are produced Kostov e-motors for EVs (what is this brand – it sounds familiar as I read about it ) and the American enthusiasts used them widely…
For Open Revolt learned from website of a guy from Denmark that purchased it for his Trabant conversion (http://electrictrabant.blogspot.com/)

I’ll continue in different post…

Last edited by deodeo; 04-27-2012 at 02:10 AM..
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:02 AM   #5697 (permalink)
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My goal was to use 9” Kostov 120V SepEx with homemade controller that supports regeneration and keep budget for entire conversion lower as possible. A friend that has more experience in electronics stated that I could switch the field wiring instead of armature (where 10 times bigger currents are flowing) to achieve regen.
I have some experience with programming pic12 to pic18, but when I found what Paul achieved with the code I am speechless!!! – I know nothing!!!
And here is my weakness – I used Picbasic and have no knowledge in Atmel and C (and feel a little old to learn new language, but why to start from scratch with Basic since you have such success?!).
I learned that Camaro succeeded with pic24xxx and Paul’s design.
Camaro, would you please share your plans/code – I must start reading some "C" guide (my e-mail is dean_stoev@abv.bg).
Paul, I’m waiting (non-)patiently to see your new design with soldered FETS to bus bar tested!!!

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Old 04-25-2012, 03:46 PM   #5698 (permalink)
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I bought a used late '70s era Eaton motor from a Yale forklift for use in my '65 VW beetle EV. I've tested the motor and it's working great. I have not driven the car yet under electric power - project is not complete. I advanced the brushes 10 degrees and am planning to run it at 96V DC.

Be careful when buying used lift motors - mine came with a hydraulic pump attached and I paid $450 - didn't pull the hydraulic pump 'cause I bought it from a 'reputable' local EV guy. Once I got it home, I realized it doesn't have a traditional shaft sticking out of the motor, it has a recessed slot which engaged a shaft on the hydraulic pump. That necessitated a way over engineered coupling solution to the input shaft on the VW transaxle.

If I were to start over, I'd buy a motor with a plain old shaft and use the traditional lovejoy connector to couple it. Much simpler and less expensive!
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:13 PM   #5699 (permalink)
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I just about finished soldering the control and driver board for the 1000amp controller and the control board, low side driver, and high side driver for the AC controller. It won't be long now!
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:39 PM   #5700 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
I just about finished soldering the control and driver board for the 1000amp controller and the control board, low side driver, and high side driver for the AC controller. It won't be long now!
Paul

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