05-03-2011, 06:59 PM
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#4691 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Scottish Borders, Scotland
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Thanked 33 Times in 16 Posts
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Finally on the road.
It's taken a while, it was over a year ago when I built the controller, but finally got the car together and drove the car home today. Controller feels good! Very pleased to be back on the road with an EV. Thanks to Paul and everyone else who has contributed to this project.
Greg
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Today
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05-03-2011, 08:05 PM
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#4692 (permalink)
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EcoModder
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes
Hi Jim! It's the Melexis HB:
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Seems they make a thing called the CSA-1V under the brand "Sentron" which appears to be identical as far as I can see.
__________________
Sometimes I sits and thinks and sometimes I just sits.
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05-03-2011, 10:22 PM
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#4693 (permalink)
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ReVolt Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Michigan, USA
Posts: 239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes
C1 is 0.001uF
C2 is 0.001uF
C3 is 0.1uF
C4 is 100pF
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Hi Paul,
I put together an assembly drawing of what you posted.
I added the sensor assembly drawing into the revolt wiki: Open ReVolt/PCB Schematics - EcoModder
- Mark
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05-04-2011, 12:01 AM
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#4694 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ohio
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I've been trying to get through this thread, but it's just to long. I've built the 500 amp controller from Paul's kit, but I can't get the source code posted on the Wiki to run.
I'm using Programmer's Notepad with AVR Dude, and Sparkfun's Pocket AVR Programmer. I can program the 168 fine, I've written my own code to test the LED, UART, and ADC. It's not a programmer or communication problem, it's something with the Paul's code (or the way my complier interprets it). I'm a fare programmer but for the life of me I can't figure this out. I've take the code from the wiki, add this:
int main(void)
{
int x;
unsigned tm_show_data;
unsigned char cmdpos, cmdok;
char cmd[32];
char str[80];
DDRD = 0b11000000;
PORTD = 0b01000000;
but the idle Led never lights up.
Has anyone else used my same setup? Any advice? Thanks guys...
PS. Is there a controller help thread where I should have posted this?
Last edited by Camaro; 05-04-2011 at 12:31 AM..
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05-04-2011, 09:06 AM
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#4695 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Charlton MA, USA
Posts: 463
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Thanked 183 Times in 94 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro
I've been trying to get through this thread, but it's just to long. I've built the 500 amp controller from Paul's kit, but I can't get the source code posted on the Wiki to run.
I'm using Programmer's Notepad with AVR Dude, and Sparkfun's Pocket AVR Programmer. I can program the 168 fine, I've written my own code to test the LED, UART, and ADC. It's not a programmer or communication problem, it's something with the Paul's code (or the way my complier interprets it). I'm a fare programmer but for the life of me I can't figure this out. I've take the code from the wiki, add this:
int main(void)
{
int x;
unsigned tm_show_data;
unsigned char cmdpos, cmdok;
char cmd[32];
char str[80];
DDRD = 0b11000000;
PORTD = 0b01000000;
but the idle Led never lights up.
Has anyone else used my same setup? Any advice? Thanks guys...
PS. Is there a controller help thread where I should have posted this?
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Is there a special reason you want to compile your own firmware?
If not, I suggest you just download it from my website. Index of /firmware
They are already compiled and tested. Its a full archive of all the versions of FW.
Im not sure why it wont blink the LED.
Try this out.
Code:
#include <avr/io.h>
#include <util/delay.h>
#include <avr/iom168.h>
int main (void)
{
DDRD = 0xFF;
while (1) {
PORTD = 0xFF; //Set PORTD high
_delay_ms(500);
PORTD = 0x00; // Set PORTD low
_delay_ms(500);
}
return 0;
}
-Adam
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05-04-2011, 02:31 PM
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#4696 (permalink)
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PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
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I just tested the Melexis HB current sensor calibration in the car to verify that the board spacing really does provide the full 1000 amp range:
Hurray! It's around 1020 amps or somewhere around there for max current.
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05-04-2011, 02:45 PM
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#4697 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ireland
Posts: 734
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Thanked 304 Times in 171 Posts
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Hey Paul when i saw the title i thought you'd held the brake on and floored it!! What size busbar are you using?
__________________
Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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05-04-2011, 02:49 PM
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#4698 (permalink)
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PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
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haha, no. I just went to 10% and checked the full range with a proportion, trusting in the linearity of the melexis. Man, I think it would be really bad to floor it with the e-brake on.
Edit: Oops, the bus bar is a 3/8" x 3/4".
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05-04-2011, 08:07 PM
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#4699 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 16
Thanks: 8
Thanked 15 Times in 6 Posts
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Thanks Adam,
That code works too. I've tested the LED, UART, and ADC with my own short code, and they all work fine. It's not a hardware or communication problem. I'm about to try the hex files on the wiki, but I want to be able to add my own code, that means I'll need to solve this problem.
Is everyone else using ARV studio with a STK500 type programmer?
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05-04-2011, 08:13 PM
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#4700 (permalink)
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PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
Posts: 3,832
Thanks: 1,362
Thanked 1,202 Times in 765 Posts
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I'm using an um... oh crap, what is it called?! avrisp mk2.
-Paul
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