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Old 07-02-2014, 04:57 PM   #6601 (permalink)
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I feel that the probability that I wrote $45 is close to 1. Definitely within 1 unit of zero. So, the probability is between 0 and 1. haha.
The tape was worth 1$.. haha.. I have the envelope here.

Anyway.. if its 45$ then I still need to pay some sort of declaration costs.. thats probably why it takes longer.. all has to be done manually.

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Old 07-02-2014, 05:02 PM   #6602 (permalink)
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Ah yes, there is no code loaded whatsoever at the moment. So, the max current would be "undefined". Twisting the little potentiometer on the control board on the left side all the way CLOCKWISE will set the HARDWARE overcurrent trip point to 1800amp. Fully COUNTER-CLOCKWISE will set the hardware overcurrent trip point to 0 amps. The motor amps are programmable through the serial port. But since I have to send you a hex file anyway, what would be the responsible level to start it at?? Hmm... It's 3 IGBTs, 600v 600amp each. The aluminum plate needs to be mounted to something that can carry the heat away, according to Otmar (the maker of the zilla) but what does he know. haha. jk.

400*3 = 1200. I don't suppose you want to start at 200 motor amps, and then gradually work your way up to... maybe 1200-1500?
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:04 PM   #6603 (permalink)
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according to otmar (the maker of the zilla) but what does he know. Haha. Jk.
rofl
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Old 07-03-2014, 03:47 AM   #6604 (permalink)
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End Panel details




Cut a piece of ABS the size of the end of the controller. I used 1/8" sheet because I had some, I think 1/4" might be better. Cut and drill holes for cables and connectors.

Cut a strip of 1/8" ABS about an inch wide that is long enough to wrap over the top and sides of the controller. Better to cut it a little long and trim it after bending.


Cut a piece of 2x4 the same size as the end plate.


With a heat gun warm the strip where you will bend the first corner.


When it it gets floppy bend it around the corner of the 2x4. Press it against the 2x4 to make the corner square and the sides nice and flat.


Do the second corner and the length of the top should come out a perfect fit to the top of the controller. Trim the sides of the strip to fit the sides of the controller.


Cut a piece of 1/4" thick plywood to the size of the end plate or slightly smaller. Lay the 1/4" plywood on a flat surface you don't love.


Apply abs cement along the edge of the endplate where it contacts the strip.


Place the endplate face down on the plywood and press the strip firmly against the faceplate on all edges. Use two hands - I'm trying to take a picture.


That should do it just trim excess glue and you are ready to slide it onto the end of the controller.
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:28 AM   #6605 (permalink)
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Quote:
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400*3 = 1200. I don't suppose you want to start at 200 motor amps, and then gradually work your way up to... maybe 1200-1500?
I'd say 1500
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:57 PM   #6606 (permalink)
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Wow Jerald! That was beautiful! I could do that. I really appreciate you taking the time to show your steps. Thank you!!!
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Old 07-04-2014, 10:48 AM   #6607 (permalink)
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EXCITED !!

Wife just called that she just missed the delivery of a package!! must be the 2000A!
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Old 07-04-2014, 01:31 PM   #6608 (permalink)
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I think the soliton1 used to have the peak current set to 1400amp. I'm not sure though. Now the current is 1000 peak and continuous. They use the same cap, but I don't know about the IGBTs.
EDIT:
"It can work air cooled by programming lower power demands. For NEVDRA racers it can be programmed up to 1400Amps (EVnetics approval racing warranty must be agreed to in writing)."

Maybe that's for 1/4 mile drag races? I got the 600v 600amp igbts from Tesseract on Ebay. They were from 2010 and 2011, and I imagine he uses newer ones with lower losses, but all that makes me guess that 1400amp peak for around 10 seconds would maybe be OK if you figured out a way to have good cooling. The aluminum plate isn't going to be sufficient. But you are also not running it near 350v either, so there won't be as much heat generated as that case.

I'm curious to see how the copper sheets work out. There are no large bus bars attached. It's 16 ounce copper, which is 4 times as thick as the 500amp power board. I know the power board doesn't vaporize at 600amp, as people have run their controllers at that level. If you double the current, you multiply the heat loss by 4, so 1200amp would probably be OK. I really have no idea, and am interested in seeing what happens.
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Last edited by MPaulHolmes; 07-04-2014 at 02:25 PM..
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Old 07-05-2014, 10:33 AM   #6609 (permalink)
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Oh yes.. its here.. that box is like Christmas..

I'll post photos later, but not mounting the capacitor was not a good idea..
In transit it took a good beating I guess because everything is bent, and it seems like the capacitors on the edge of the control board are damaged because of that.. but nothing that can't be fixed.
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:06 PM   #6610 (permalink)
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I'm so sorry about that. Is it the PCB that's not mounted? Then that's the dc-dc converter. Its job is to give 24v to the control board, with a 9-18v input. It was an off the shelf part:
PSD-30A-24 Mean Well | Mouser

I think they have the wrong picture up on mouser though. If it doesn't end up working, I'll just ship you another one from Mouser. I used to work at the post office, so I should have known better. You don't want to know what we do with packages. Unholy, terrible things.

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