Note to all other Northern Tool flux core welder users: The wire spool is supposed to have a tension spring sandwiched on the spool mounting post. OMGWTFLOL.
BIG UPDATE. All of this was done today!!
Today, I set out with the mission to do 3 tasks: 1) Install the clutch pedal and 2) finalize the engine mounting. 3) install the manual shifter assembly.
Number 1 includes:
- Removing the steering column. I found a great tutorial here.
- Drilling three holes in the firewall for mounting the clutch cable.
- Mounting the previously-sourced manual pedal cluster.
- Reassembly.
Here's some fun pictures:
It's a total of 5 fasteners (2 top T40 Torx bolts, 2 bottom 12mm nuts on studs, and 1 12mm bolt holding the steering shaft) and 5 connectors.
Hey look: three pedals, firmly mounted.
All re-assembled:
The hole goes there:
You can tell where it goes because they welded some nuts on the inside, and one piece of the sandwiched firewall has the clutch hole stamped:
Center punch the holes from the inside, drill pilot holes through the nuts that clear the threads (don't want to drill the threads out!!) I used a 7/8" hole saw for the clutch cable hole.
From the inside:
Number 2 includes:
- Removing the alternator
- Cutting the shield
- welding a right angle brace to the back of the previously created motor mount.
The alternator shield proved simple, yet didn't end up how I anticipated. I was going to trim the belt shield a bit, and I did. Then I realized I had cut off 99% of the single spot weld that was holding the nut to the shield.
Here's the issue, the belt shield hits the passenger side motor mount:
Here is the initial cut before I realized the shield was barely hanging on there:
Initial cut from another angle:
Here's how it ended up:
I also added a brace to the back of the flat plate motor mount I previously fabbed up. I'm just learning welding.
I started with this mount, you can see that it just clears the oil filter so I can't add any bracing to that side, but underneath is some prime real estate for beefing it up with a little brace.
I added to the bottom:
Number 3 includes:
- Removing the automatic shifter
- inserting the manual shifter
- confirming that the previously cut-off bracket was cut sufficiently to clear.
The auto shifter is mounted from the top, with nuts on the bottom. 4 nuts, a few clips for the cables... goodbye auto shifter:
The manual shifter gets inserted into the car from beneath, same 4 holes, same 4 nuts. See it there?
The 2 shifter rods that come off the shifter go OVER the anti-sway bar. I got to install the shifter twice because I wasn't being observant. Here they are, resting over the anti-sway bar that is just hidden by the base of the firewall:
While I was at it, I put 5.25 quarts of oil in the engine and aligned the starter. It turns the engine over just fine! I didn't start it because I don't have the stop/start fuel solenoid wired up and there's no lube in the tranny. I have 2 quarts of Syncromesh, but the three parts stores near me are out of it. So I'm going to have to take a trip a few miles down the road to get the last half quart.
I also replaced both of the output seals on the tranny - there was no question they would have leaked - they were bent and torn by whoever took the CV axles at the junk-yard.
Left side is bigger than the right side.
Right side:
Oh hey, did I ever post pictures of the oil
gallery plug:
I had always called it an "oil galley". Well, I picked up that other folks typed it as "gallery" and set out to do some research. It's a gallery. I'm smarter now.
Here's one of several good explanations <click>.
The Previous owner was a dope smoking moron. He blew the engine up, so there's that. I found weed (!!) in the car, and some drug paraphernalia, so there's that, too. And the final blow that confirms my disdain is not misplaced for the young man who sold this to me:
Today
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