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Old 05-20-2013, 09:00 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Thanks much for the good info, I'm guessing you loop the two lines on the rack together somehow, I may try the undersized crank pulley route also as the accesory drag seem high on this Escort , almost all my miles are 60 mph highway and revs seems a bit high , these cars have a pretty major engine vibration issue unless yoou modify the mounts at least the early ones like mine did. On my ranger i put a bigger alternator puley on and you could actually feel the difference,

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Old 05-20-2013, 09:49 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I just recently removed mine. I looped the lines and have a tee in the loop that goes to a reservior for adding fluid and acting as a vent.

Since I don't have any fuel economy data from before, I can't tell you if it helped or not. It's not that hard to steer and I could tell a difference in engine load.

I would recommend it.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:05 PM   #23 (permalink)
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This info couldn't have come at a better time, thanks Nod.

The PS went out on my fiance's Pontiac Grand Prix, and she can barely muscle the thing around. I gather that removing the pump and looping the lines will make it easier to steer.

I'm assuming the line I have drawn below is what needs to be looped to complete the conversion?

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Old 05-20-2013, 11:45 PM   #24 (permalink)
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The way I've read it should be done for a Miata, which I'm not sure if it's true for your application, is to also loop the other 2 lines together after turning the wheel from lock to lock a few times to remove most of the fluid in the system. I imagine that it will still take a lot of effort to steer a car as heavy as a Grand Prix at low speeds.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:06 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I did the line loop ORIGINALLY the way you have it listed on the picture there, but the best way is to make sure to do a direct loop between the two lines to each side of the piston. This way, as pressure from the piston moving over increases on one side, it equalizes the other side directly. Then, also loop the lines at the rotary valve (or seal them off... just keep em clean).

When I did the rebuild to make it more like a manual rack, I yanked out all the guts, busted off the piston, and used a good amount of synthetic grease on the rotary valve and the pinion area, as well as ends of the rack where they met with the end of the housing... basically, anywhere that would have been lubricated by the PS fluid or would have any friction.
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:31 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Picture and instructions to describe this

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoD~ View Post
I did the line loop ORIGINALLY the way you have it listed on the picture there, but the best way is to make sure to do a direct loop between the two lines to each side of the piston. This way, as pressure from the piston moving over increases on one side, it equalizes the other side directly. Then, also loop the lines at the rotary valve (or seal them off... just keep em clean).
Here is what NoD~ is talking about:

http://ecomodder.com/wiki/images/8/8...ringChange.JPG

Power steering delete - EcoModder
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:16 PM   #27 (permalink)
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my dad wrecked my civc and cracked the PS resevoir a long time ago and i took the pully and lines out and just left it without looping it and its been fine for like 150k miles! lmao. maybe i should loop it but the thing seem totally fine. i dont really know how much mpg i got out of it but im not going back even though i could very easily do so. i get to work out my arms and sweat off all my body fat without the a/c and save gas. so ill have huge guns and some extra money =D
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:34 PM   #28 (permalink)
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That just means you're fighting the pump to steer. Get a manual rack from a base model sedan or hatch and put it in, you're going to notice an immediate difference in the steering effort.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:43 PM   #29 (permalink)
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If he took the lines out like he said he isn't fighting the pump. But, if he didn't loop the lines or seal the rack somehow dirt is working it's way inside and it will probably fail prematurely. If it's been good for 150k though, who knows, maybe you'll be fine.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:52 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Ah I missed that he took the lines out. You can actually pretty much remove all the fluid from the PS racks and put a loop between them so you're only pushing air. Even a capful of fluid inside the rack is enough to lubricate it... the lubricity of the PS oil is pretty much only for the pump.

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