Power steering pump delete

[nasscmw]

Hi,

Would a power steering delete work on a recirculating ball type?

[oil pan 4]

Yes, I ran like that over about a year and didn't hurt anything.

[nasscmw]

Great, thanks! I can't wait to work on that then.... doing an engine transplant and aiming to make the car as basic as possible with a goal for performance.....

[4drturbo]

Will this work?

This is a mock up. Bought some expensive Aeroquip fittings.
Thanks. So do not add any fluid to the rack? It is a new reman rack.

[NoD~]

Originally Posted by 4drturbo

Will this work?

This is a mock up. Bought some expensive Aeroquip fittings.
Thanks. So do not add any fluid to the rack? It is a new reman rack.

Back when I first rid of my power steering, that's the loop I did. I just turned the rack back and forth a few times to get as much fluid out as possible, then did that same loop.

years later, after I pulled it apart and made it more of a "real" power steering rack, I saw what I did wrong... you really should loop it on the next set of hose nipples on the rack instead of the pinion.



The little valves on the pinion won't really kill much resistance. When I pulled apart my setup and removed the piston, I just capped everythign else off and added a bunch of grease on everything. The difference was night and day! I highly recommend at least going to rack to do the loop instead of the pinion. If you can, pull it apart and remove the piston.

[4drturbo]

But will it be okay having it like what I have pictured? You mentioned you had it like that for years. I just don't want to blow any seals out or anything. I don't mind if there is more resistance when steering doing it that way. I just don't know if it is worth it for me to get some expensive fittings and some hex caps for where I have the lines looped.

Thanks for the prompt response. I appreciate it.

[NoD~]

Originally Posted by 4drturbo

But will it be okay having it like what I have pictured? You mentioned you had it like that for years. I just don't want to blow any seals out or anything. I don't mind if there is more resistance when steering doing it that way. I just don't know if it is worth it for me to get some expensive fittings and some hex caps for where I have the lines looped.

Thanks for the prompt response. I appreciate it.

It will work, just not as effectively. What you can do, though, is loop the other line was well. That will make more difference in ease of turn. Just put two hoses on the two nipples on the rack, turn that steering wheel far over each direction a few times, then loop it. Otherwise, if you just want to loop at the pinion, you'll have a lot more resistance when you want to turn and make very low speed to a stop turning work you out!

It didn't most me much to convert mine completely over. More work than money, that's for sure! I ended up cutting up reusing the stock caps and just buying a thin sheet of DIY gasket rubber, cut out the gasket to fit the caps, then put them on. I might have used some silicone to extra seal it... Heck, if you can pull it apart and take the piston out and just grease it up good, you can keep a looped line on to keep the gunk out. That would cost you grease and that's about it!

[j12piprius]

If I understand this correctly, the simple fix is to close the lines on the pinion as follows, which is the way I did mine. The steering is harder below 1 or 2 mph, but otherwise fine.



Getting to the lines for closing the lines on the rack, as illustrated below, appeared to be way too difficult, as the lines are behind the engine and down under the firewall.

[NoD~]

That's exactly why mine was looped at the pinion instead of the rack for years... that and my own ignorance.

When I did my conversion, I was COMPLETELY rebuilding my neon from the ground up. I had the engine out and all components taken off to clean. I was planning on buying a manual rack ($$$), but then googled up that somebody with, I think it was a miata, had converted theirs over as I described. I pulled the steering rack out and worked on it on a bench. After following that, but it all back together, some mild adjustment, and now am a happy camper. In fact, I sold this car to a friend with the pinion looped and he hated it. After I bought it back from him and did the rebuild, I let him drive it and he noted the steering was FAR more tolerable.

So yeah, if you don't have access to pulling it all apart like that, loop what you can. If you can get under the car, though, you may be able to pull the lines at the rotary valve connection and at least drain you more fluid that way. Possibly looping the rack using the factory tubing, too!

But I guess ANYTHING beats just removing the belt off the pump! lol

[4drturbo]

So the AFTER is the way it should be correct?

Ideally these two hard lines need to be looped to each other correct?


Here is where the hard lines go:

Just cap those off? And keep what I have looped?

Thanks.