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Old 01-18-2008, 06:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
My car's engine burns 0.5 litres per hour, fully warmed up @ idle, according to the ScanGauge. That's for a 1.0 L, 3-cyl.
According to my VAGCOM, my TDi burns .5 liters per hour @ idle when cold. Never checked it hot. That's for a 1.9 liter, 4 cylinder turbocharged, direct injection diesel.

The manual that came with the 8-cyl Cat 3208 in my motor home (1300 lbs and 610 cubic inches of the finest Detroit cast iron... ) says it burns 1 gallon per hour at idle.

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Old 01-18-2008, 11:57 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dissimilation View Post
It was tapping here and there, the grapevine is quite a massive slope with many turn offs for overheating uphill and many truck runaway ramps going down. I get about two hard brakings in before the vacuum needs to be recharged by the engine. I'm no stranger to braking without the assist of power through different vehicles I've driven over the years, so I didn't panic - but it did certainly get me nervous on something as treacherous as the descent of the Grapevine. Once the initial shock wore off, I turned back on the engine and realized the correlation to something that gave me braking power being charged when the engine was running (and read up to find the name of that something when I got home). I'm interested in seeing if there's a cheap way of putting a pressure meter in place to give me a good idea of what braking power I have.
a vacuum gauge behind the vacuum check ball would allow you to see how much assist is left. While slightly more dangerous, you could pull your parking brake to stop(or slow) at times. dangerous part is 1. just using your rear brakes(which is what the parking brake engages) means that the rear of the car may lock up and get away from you and 2. forgetting to release the button may be suprising.
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Old 01-19-2008, 07:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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About a thousand years ago my Dad had a 1970 SAAB 96, and one thing about it that always drove him crazy was the freewheeling clutch - it would keep popping between settings and that made it hard to drive.

But most significantly, that thing would've been the owl's howl for P&G - tap the gas to go, let up to coast. Is anyone making a slipper clutch that could be bolted into a modern app? Like an '87 Toyota truck?
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:39 AM   #14 (permalink)
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what are the savings for highway pulse and glide without EOC as compared to normal conservative highway driving?

i like the idea of P&G but on the highway at 60mph turning the engine on and off becomes very frequent and annoying. surely putting the clutch in is just as good? ideling losses are not that much?
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:40 AM   #15 (permalink)
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i would really like an answer to this
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Old 09-10-2008, 11:15 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I can't tell you what he differences are on your Corsa,
But,
In my wifes Avalon, fully warmed up, with its automatic transmission, according to the SG;
.33 GPH in neutral, coasting or sitting,
.49 GPH in D. sitting (Thats 50% more fuel)
.00 Gph in D. coasting over 47 MPH (decel fuel cutoff)
1.5 GPH in D. and dropping coasting under 46 MPH
So when I am on the highway I coast in D until we break the threshold of 46 MPH then put it in N until I need more speed again.

My Metro has no High Tech readout, it is too old for SG, and I don't feel confident enough to build a Guino.
But I have been told by those who have one that the Metro burns ~.25 GPH at idle, (and I cut my idle down to 500 rpm for further savings)
So at 60 MPH that would work out to 240 MPG coasting at idle engine on.
Not as good as EOC, but this is what I do in heavy traffic. (which is most of the time here)
Hope this helps,
Schultz
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:37 AM   #17 (permalink)
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This shouldn't be too difficult to figure out if you have a gauge that reads mpg.

When you are coasting in neutral read the mpg figure and note the speed at the same time. Because you now know 1) miles per hour and 2) miles per gallon and 3) your engine is at idle, it should be easy to calculate gallons per hour at idle.

It's late now but I'll work out a formula tomorrow.
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Old 09-11-2008, 05:21 AM   #18 (permalink)
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i think pulse and glide is only benificial for big muscle cars and trucks. i tried it in my 1L econobox and it actually lowered the mpg. probably this is because my 1L engine is already well sized for highway driving. the engine needs to be on full load just to reach motorway speeds.
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Old 11-07-2008, 05:51 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I experimented today on the way to work with just doing EOC when the opportunity arose and no Pulse and Glide. Yesterday I did Pulse and Glide when ever I could along with EOC. This is the same 32.3 miles route both days.

My findings:

EOC only without Pulse and Glide= 50.2 mpg
EOC and Pulse and Glide =52.8 (it was raining and cooler this day)

My route to work is always better then going home. The best on the way home was also with EOC and Pulse and Glide and was 41.3 mpg. Without Pulse and Glide its just 36-38 mpg.

My homework now is to just dial in the correct acceleration needed to regain my top target speed.
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Old 11-07-2008, 08:31 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modmonster View Post
i think pulse and glide is only benificial for big muscle cars and trucks. i tried it in my 1L econobox and it actually lowered the mpg. probably this is because my 1L engine is already well sized for highway driving. the engine needs to be on full load just to reach motorway speeds.
Sadly, it's pretty dangerous to do this in most of those bigger cars - no power steering and brakes are fine on a small car, but on a big car... it can be a beast. Most of the people who freak out about EOC have experienced trying to steer a heavy car with no power steering - you can't swerve quickly if needed in them.
I actually tore up the steering shaft joint (rag joint) in my mustang from turning the wheel too much while the car was off.

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