04-05-2011, 02:20 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Polymorphic Modder
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Maybe a pop up wind turbine to slow the car, would create more drag, and alot more power.
Aircraft have a wind powered APU for emergencies. This would be easy to make, could probably use RC airplane parts and a small generator. Could have the brake light circuit activate.
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04-05-2011, 03:26 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MorphDaCivic
Maybe a pop up wind turbine to slow the car, would create more drag, and alot more power.
Aircraft have a wind powered APU for emergencies. This would be easy to make, could probably use RC airplane parts and a small generator. Could have the brake light circuit activate.
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yea, i thought about it, the only problem is that the output will be significantly lower at lower speeds,
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04-05-2011, 03:41 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryland
Even tho your alternator might be able to put out 135 amps, the rest of your wiring might not be able to handle that many amps and you would need to beef up your ground straps as well as clean all of the connections, otherwise you are going to fry something, or set your car on fire.
also check the fuses, your alternator might be fused at 60 or 80 amps.
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well.... i checked the fuse ,and is rated 20 amps
im realy confused, the manual says tipical load at 60 amps, but the fuse is 20 amps,... that makes no sense to me
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04-05-2011, 05:29 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabi
well.... i checked the fuse ,and is rated 20 amps
im realy confused, the manual says tipical load at 60 amps, but the fuse is 20 amps,... that makes no sense to me
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You're looking at the fuse that's for the field control in the alternator what essentially dictates the output of the alternator going to the battery through another fuse which is a fusible link. Looks like a section of wiring but designed to melt/open the circuit when overloaded. I don't know it's rating.
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04-05-2011, 05:47 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dplane
You're looking at the fuse that's for the field control in the alternator what essentially dictates the output of the alternator going to the battery through another fuse which is a fusible link. Looks like a section of wiring but designed to melt/open the circuit when overloaded. I don't know it's rating.
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so if i run a wire with a switch trough this 20 amp fuse would be enough to stop the alternator from working?
That could be an easy alternator kill switch,
or will the alternator still produce current, and thus load on the engine?,
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04-05-2011, 06:52 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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I don't know. It would have to be a trial and error thing.
As the rotor still turns (engine on) there could be some residual magnetism left in the iron core therefore even with the field unpowered there is a possibility that it will still produce current.
Likely the field would have to be grounded (on both ends) to eliminate this but these are just my thoughts/guessing here.
Now if you use a contactor (big relay/switch) on the output side going to the battery to open/close the circuit, you might have better results.
I never played with this so like I said trial and error type thing.
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04-05-2011, 08:47 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabi
so if i run a wire with a switch trough this 20 amp fuse would be enough to stop the alternator from working?
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Yes, it would cut power from your alternator.
Fuse block for the alternator is going to be between the alternator and the battery, fallow the large cable from the alternator to the battery.
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04-06-2011, 08:27 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryland
Yes, it would cut power from your alternator.
Fuse block for the alternator is going to be between the alternator and the battery, fallow the large cable from the alternator to the battery.
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Sorry but there is no fuse block between the alternator output (large cable)and battery.
The battery + cable splits in two.One goes to the alternator and the other to the starter. Each of these have a short section of wire called either fuse link or fusable link designed to work like a fuse if the respective component shorts and tries to put B+ to ground.
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04-07-2011, 03:12 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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well..i pulled the fuse out and drove with a voltmeter hooked-up ....and it shows 13.85 volts ,so the alternator is definitely producing curent.
also i found the fusible link, is rated 126 A
now looking for a different kill switch,
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