Rarity- Accord V6 6MT Hypermile/Build Thread

[Daschicken]

Saw as high as 49.8, sooooo close to my 50mpg trip target! Did more engine on pulse and glide, let glide extend much longer when traffic conditions allowed. My recent aero mod is definitely helping.

Here is the latest mod, a partial box-cavity, didn't have enough time to make the sides.


Tank average sits at 39.4 right now, lets see if I can bump that up to 40.

EDIT: Turned out to be 47.1 MPG

[Tdang104]

Nice work! What do you think about adding a front lip?

[Daschicken]

Originally Posted by Tdang104

Nice work! What do you think about adding a front lip?

Thanks!

By front lip, do you mean a splitter or an air dam? Either way, I would have to get creative with the attachment method, but i'm sure I could do it. I already have a mostly complete undertray, that would be why I haven't made an air dam yet. I am certainly not against making something like that to try it out, since I like to just get on with it and make something to prove it in the field instead of making calculations for hours. A lot more productive that way.

[Daschicken]

460.2 miles, 11.982 gallons. 38.4 MPG! The scangauge was a little optimistic, was expecting 40 mpg. Oh well, I got this as a consolation prize.
64.7% over EPA! I'm beating the aerocivic in % over EPA!



Any atlanta area members interested in a meetup? The revised date is April 2, not march 18.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...8-a-34951.html

[Daschicken]

On my last fillup, the scangauge was 4% optimistic, I adjusted it down 2%, so we will see what the next adjustment needed is. Even if it is the full 4% optimistic, that 48mpg trip would still be a new record over the confirmed 45.1.

I spent a while looking at the wiring diagrams again, there will be no easy way to do a kill switch. There are 6 ground wires, one for each injector and they all lead back to Junction Connector 101. Each injector ground is yellow with a black stripe, however, there are 9 yellow and black wires coming out of J/C 101. I cannot find a pin-out diagram for that connector, so I will have to figure what each wire is manually.

My box cavity came loose on one side, so I took it off for now. I noticed a slight drop in my coasting ability, which tells me that thing works! Just need to finish the rest of it.

I had an idea for another easy rear end mod. I will put a panel in place to effectively decrease the angle of the rear window. On my last junkyard trip I found a bunch of coroplast signs in a car, so I went up and asked if I could have them for free. They said yes! Those signs should fit nicely on there.


As far as the power steering delete, I still need to figure out what size adapter I need for the rack so I can loop the lines. In a parts diagram, the hoses were marked 10mm

I attempted to index my spark plugs, 4 were already lined up, and when I got to the first one that needed adjustment the washer I used wouldn't come out! I'll have to make some tool to see if I can dislodge it, maybe some sort of hook.

OEM engine block heater and PCV valve on the way, about time! My old PCV valve is loose, despite being bolted down tight, and there is a line of oil below it. That will leave one less oil leak.

[Daschicken]

Block heater and new pcv valve installed, and the box cavity is back in action!

OEM block heater is 400W

Hard to see, but that orange wire plugs into the heater.


What an adventure it was installing that thing... Lost about a gallon of coolant through the hole the heater screws into.

First impressions: Very good!
I had it plugged in for about 2.5 hours before leaving, outside temp was around 75-80 degrees, and when I started the car, the temp read 124. I neglected to notice until I was about to exit my neighborhood that I had left the heater on, but if I didn't do that, i'm pretty sure it would have hit operating temp as I was exiting the hood, which is about a mile. It just feels so much better to start a pre-warmed engine, it felt smoother, and dropped down to about 800 rpm instead of its usual 1000 rpm cold start idle. If I didn't leave the heater on I could have probably had DFCO ready for my first stop sign.

First pre-warmed trip: 44.9 mpg

A bit more traffic than usual, so mpg could have been better, but prior to getting on the highway, mpg was definitely helped by the heater. I usually line up at the highway reading about 30-32 mpg depending on stoplights, but this time it was at 34 mpg.


Recently I have begun measuring oil temps due to curiosity, here are the results:

Outside: 55
Oil pan: 135-150
Outside: 65
Oil pan: 140-150

Outside: 82
Oil pan: 160-170
Oil filter: 170-175

That's some cold oil! That's hypermiling for you. I'm probably gonna insulate the oil filter, then maybe the pan and see if I can get some more reasonable temps, they should be around 210.

Tank avg reads 37.5 right now, including all the idling I had to do to bleed the cooling system. I think a new tank record is not out of the question this time around.

[Daschicken]

I got to drive a friend's Scion FR-S, cool car as long as you are sitting in the front. I have to say, I don't feel so bad about my clutch anymore after driving that car. It was as odd mix of mechanical notchiness and absence of clutch feel. In typical Toyota fashion, the rev-limiter kicks in early and HARD. 7400 RPM, right at the red line, didn't even go past it. The lack of low end torque left something to be desired. Gearing on that car was also kind of odd. It reminded me of my 4 cylinder accord, and not in a good way. The 1st to 2nd gap was pretty large considering that its a 6 speed. I actually had to downshift back to 1st after I shifted to 2nd for the first time. Top gear isn't bad, I think it was around 2200 RPM for 50 mph. Before I started romping on it I drove it for mileage and got 37 MPG in a mostly city based route, pretty good! It was only rated for 22 city, 30 highway, 25 combined.

I also gave some ecodriving instruction to the owner, he used to put it into neutral when braking and approaching stops. I taught him to keep it in gear down to when DFCO cuts off, in this case 1000 RPM.


Block heater is still giving good results, about 45-50 degrees higher than ambient when plugged in for 2 hours.

I tried working on the side plates for my box cavity, but the parents vetoed that. Looks like i'll have to stick to undertray mods. Up next will probably be a half inch skirt for the exhaust channel.

Filled up the previous tank and got 37.2 MPG, bumping me up to 78.9% over EPA!

[serialk11r]

Haven't been here in a while, thought I'd check up on your thread.

That oil temp is pretty low given your oil capacity isn't that high, you have no oil/coolant heat exchanger to the best of my knowledge, and those older engines tend to have more friction and dump more heat into the oil. I think my 2ZZ would be around there if I P&G, but it has an (air) oil cooler.

If you're curious about modding the FR-S you should check out my tuning posts from 2 years ago. Softening the rev limit makes it more pleasant. The car is really crippled by the tune, which is meant to keep the cats cool. It also has very poor low end performance despite D4-S which is supposed to help low speed combustion by using the port injector instead of the direct injector (which doesn't work as well with low tumble flow).

You can trick the car into slight lean burn if you have a wideband emulator, but it will never pay for itself unless you drive 100 miles a day.

[Daschicken]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

That oil temp is pretty low given your oil capacity isn't that high, you have no oil/coolant heat exchanger to the best of my knowledge, and those older engines tend to have more friction and dump more heat into the oil. I think my 2ZZ would be around there if I P&G, but it has an (air) oil cooler.

Correct, no oil/coolant heat exchanger. I have considered adding one. Also no oil cooler as far as I know.

Originally Posted by serialk11r

If you're curious about modding the FR-S you should check out my tuning posts from 2 years ago. Softening the rev limit makes it more pleasant. The car is really crippled by the tune, which is meant to keep the cats cool. It also has very poor low end performance despite D4-S which is supposed to help low speed combustion by using the port injector instead of the direct injector (which doesn't work as well with low tumble flow).

From experience, Toyota rev limiters seem to kick in early and hard, raising the rev limit in the FR-S would definitely make it more fun. That car really needs some more low end torque though. Not my car however, so not really my problem.

[serialk11r]

If Hondas are anything like Toyotas, if the oil filter thread/diameter is the same, you should be able to use a K20 factory oil cooler. A lot of people throw them out for an aftermarket oil cooler for track use so they are plentiful on Ebay for low price.