Rarity- Accord V6 6MT Hypermile/Build Thread

[Daschicken]

Okay, first of all, I win.

I caught that view count just at the right time!

I mentioned the P/S bypass in my previous post, but what I didn't mention was that I made some front wheel deflectors just like I hinted a post before that.

Here they are:



Slight improvement in coasting noticed, lots of scraping noticed . I've caught some cringeworthy scrapes on my dashcam. I will have to use some extra hot glue on the thing, the back plate screws don't want to stay where they are supposed to. Even with this new mod, no new best trip yet, weather is getting colder.

My tank avg right now is around low 30s or high 20s. Errand running and shorter trips will keep this tank from being stellar. That and I taught another guy to drive stick. (That is 9 now, in case you were keeping track)

As I let him drive around the campus loop after an hour of parking lot practice, He stopped at a stop sign and got nervous. Guy came up close behind us, cop in front of us, my student stalled twice before I hit the flashers. Nothing. Dude behind us didn't go, he just honked . Eventually my student got rolling, and the cop pulled out behind us and turned on his lights! First time i've been pulled over! (although I wasn't driving at the time, so I can still brag I have never been pulled over) My student was pretty nervous, but since we didn't do anything wrong, I told him he had nothing to worry about. Cop came up suspicious, shined his flashlight in the back, then approached us. I told him right away I was just teaching him to drive stick, he told us that's what he thought was going on. But he had to pull us over for erratic driving just to make sure. Cool cop told us he was teaching his daughter to drive stick too, made sure my student didn't have anything going for him, and we were free to go. No warning or anything, not even a "do this somewhere else"

I was (like always) hoping for a new best trip after removing the P/S belt, but I had to fill up on the way, which took off a few mpg, then there was some traffic, and I have more grille block on than usual so I had to run the heat with blower to keep engie cool. All these combined to give me a trip of 39.8.


Another mod I did fairly recently was to make a bellmouth (venturi) for my airbox. I had been reading up on acoustic horns recently, and wanted to make one for my engine! The objective was to amplify intake noise, cause intake noise sounds *****in'. However, instead it just made it quieter from inside the car . Still pretty quiet from outside, so who knows if it's working. I will probably make a wood contraption to get a better shape out of the pipe, my limiting factor on this attempt was the lack of curvy stuff to press the PVC into.

Here it is hooked up to the airbox

The flared end

Straight end

The first time I tried to put the contraption in, the horn and rubber grommets fell right off! So much for tape. Screws and nuts worked much better

Here is the better attachment system. I got really lucky and was able to jam the stock intake grommets together and hold the horn on really well, which results in a pretty good seal.


I looked at a sound file taken inside the airbox in audacity and found the intake noise to be right around 100 Hz. I know from reading about acoustic horn design that the longer the horn takes to expand, the lower Hz sound it can amplify. Conversely, horns that expand quickly are good for amplifying high frequency sound. A horn with a 40% expansion rate per foot has a cutoff point of about 30Hz, so I should be aiming for an expansion rate of maybe 50-60% per foot. Right now, my "horn" is at an expansion rate MUCH higher than that, and it isn't an exponential horn, which pretty much explains why it isn't working right now.

So, here is my new plan to put a better curve on the horn:

I used the process on the bottom. The process on the top involves sticking some wood together, then cutting off excess wood to form the desired shape of my horn. I will have to rotate the PVC pipe a bunch, but I think this will work!



Finding this video was what made me tackle this job.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzdnlBkG2mI

[Daschicken]

Kill switch (not) progress....

Just tried unplugging my camshaft position sensor, no luck. Engine kept purring, didn't even hesitate. It did throw a check engine light though.

So I dug further into the wiring diagrams in my service manual and found the correct diagram this time. The upload file size limit makes the diagram unreadable, so here are the two noteworthy parts.

That wire coming off the bottom of C101 looks like it connects to another wire, which is connected to the PCM and called IGP.


The other wire of each injector comes to the ECM/PCM as shown in this diagram


Right now, what i'm thinking is Hook a switch (again, not an electrical person) up to Connector 101 to somehow disable it, but there are other things connected to it too. I just looked closer at the top diagram and saw that the other two(or 3) circuits connected to C101 are the camshaft position sensor and the two(?) crankshaft position sensors. Each of these position sensors share a common ground, G101. Could I intercept G101, and wire it to a switch so that with the flip of a switch, the three sensors are no longer receiving ground?

I'm not an electrical person, so if anyone can offer advice on how I should progress, I would appreciate it.

[serialk11r]

Wow, you actually did the P/S delete. Hats off to you. That's a heavy car to drive with no P/S. The gas mileage you're getting on better tanks is incredible. I'm getting around the same, but my car is 2200lbs, nearly scraping the ground, and has 11.5 compression ratio.

Now I have no excuse to not do a P/S delete on my car which has half the weight over the front axle...

I was thinking about waiting until my brakes wore out (from track driving, I could never go through a set of pads on the street in 10 years), and then try to modify a Honda EG Civic Wilwood kit to fit. The aluminum hat rotors are thicker which will increase the wheel offset and make the steering easier.

I've been bump starting the car to get the P/S to turn off and practice but I've turned into a wimp from driving with power steering and struggle a lot with it.

As for your injectors, those diagrams have 6 wires for the injectors, and there's nothing that obviously looks like it will shut all 6 down. Try to find which "box" those wires are coming from and check what it controls, if it's just the injectors you can cut power to that box, otherwise I think you'll have to tap relays into all 6 wires.

[Daschicken]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Wow, you actually did the P/S delete. Hats off to you. That's a heavy car to drive with no P/S.

Damn right it is! 3371 lb curb weight, and 62%(?) over the front wheels. It's tough. They don't call it armstrong steering for nothing!

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Now I have no excuse to not do a P/S delete on my car which has half the weight over the front axle...

That's right...Well, except you have electric power steering, so it doesn't hurt that much.

Originally Posted by serialk11r

As for your injectors, those diagrams have 6 wires for the injectors, and there's nothing that obviously looks like it will shut all 6 down. Try to find which "box" those wires are coming from and check what it controls, if it's just the injectors you can cut power to that box, otherwise I think you'll have to tap relays into all 6 wires.

I'll look into the other wiring diagrams further, see if I can spot C101 anywhere else. I REALLY don't want to have to cut into the 6 injector wires.

Forgot to mention that I am back working at an auto shop. I love lifts.



An important thing to note for anyone considering doing the belt swap with the same accord is that the belt isn't routed the same way anymore. I have diagrams here to show what I mean.

Stock


Modified

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by Daschicken

That's right...Well, except you have electric power steering, so it doesn't hurt that much.

Forgot to mention that I am back working at an auto shop. I love lifts.
Attachment 20986Attachment 20987Attachment 20988

Stock
Attachment 20990

Modified
Attachment 20989

It draws as much power as headlights do, and it's easy to forget that I have the key in the "ON" position, so I'm little worried about running the battery down by accident. Now, I do have a big heavy lead acid that I am itching to replace with lithium ion so maybe that's not as bad as I think

The delete removes 10lbs from the car which will boost acceleration by 0.4%, but the bigger benefit is that the steering feel and weight will improve a lot. There is way too much steering assist, which makes the car rather twitchy because it has a short wheelbase combined with a 13:1 rack.

Looking at your pulley diagram, the idlers are supposed to ride on the smooth side of the belt but now you're putting the toothed side on the first one coming off the crank (going clockwise)? Shouldn't you have gotten something a few inches shorter and skipped that idler pulley?

[Daschicken]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Now, I do have a big heavy lead acid that I am itching to replace with lithium ion so maybe that's not as bad as I think

I would love to get a LiFePO4 battery, one suitable for my car weighs about 5 lbs, my current battery is in the neighborhood of 35 lbs.

Originally Posted by serialk11r

The delete removes 10lbs from the car which will boost acceleration by 0.4%, but the bigger benefit is that the steering feel and weight will improve a lot. There is way too much steering assist, which makes the car rather twitchy because it has a short wheelbase combined with a 13:1 rack.

Weight reduction, bro!

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Looking at your pulley diagram, the idlers are supposed to ride on the smooth side of the belt but now you're putting the toothed side on the first one coming off the crank (going clockwise)? Shouldn't you have gotten something a few inches shorter and skipped that idler pulley?

Yes, the toothed side is now riding on the tensioners, but that was the only way I could do it. It does make an odd whirring/resonant noise now. Only one of the "tensioners" actually tensions, and that would be the left one. If I skipped the other one, it would not be able to tension the belt.
This is what the tensioner arm looks like. It goes to the right (clockwise) to tension.

[Daschicken]

If this is accurate, that would make a new record. I focused more on accelerating in better bsfc zones, and did more P&G on the highway.



Along with the driving style modification above, I slightly modified the lower grill block opening, now the opening is slightly larger and more optimally shaped for airflow.


I also removed the P/S pump and reservoir, and bagged the ends of the lines for now, until I figure out what adapter I need to loop the lines in the rack. Feels like a little less than 10 pounds.

[Daox]

Very nice. You're killing the EPA rating for your car!

[Daschicken]

Just filled up today: 505.7 miles, 13.618 gallons, 37.1 mpg! The scangauge was 2.2% PESSIMISTIC which means that 44.1 mpg trip was actually 45.1! I beat my first trip mpg goal of 45 mpg! WOOT!

A few more aero mods and I might be able to hit 50 mpg without needing a kill switch!

[Daox]

Congrats!