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Old 06-25-2014, 03:16 PM   #111 (permalink)
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You're amusing me.
And wasting your time.
Actually you are probably wasting your boss's time.

Are you selling chains ?

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Old 06-25-2014, 03:34 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Let us know when you have done a proper test between 'em, otherwise it is a waste of time, your "feels" aren't the best measure of efficiency or anything else. If you wish to make such a claim, but cannot back it up, then you should retract it. If you wish to act butt-hurt instead, well good luck with that.
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Old 06-25-2014, 06:55 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Quote:
I keep going back to the calculator and fitting in all the variables. Personally, 50 to 55 is my preferred cruising speed so I'd probably go for maximum torque right there. That would work out at about 100 rpm per mph in top.

What sprocket ratio would that be ?
I've not calculated exactly, but it would be close to 17 - 33, not enough room in the casing for a 17t and a 33 rear would have to be custom made. The closest I can get would be a 16 - 34 which equates to 109 rpm per mph. close enough I think.

Quote:
Do you have any reflection or glare from your headlight as it shines through the windscreen ?
Surprising as it may seem, I've never actually ridden in the dark scince fitting the fairing, I think the headlamp bulb is 30 watts, so pretty pathetic. At this time of year it doesn't get dark here until 9.30, so I've just been to the garage to check.
Even with a dirty screen it's not a problem, I look over the screen not through it, and because of the acute angle of the screen any glare is reflected downwards.

Quote:
Having the headlamp behind the windscreen doesn't really look so good...
I agree, but it is much more aerodynamic. I could try to integrate Toyota Prius headlamps into the fairing to quote Craig Vetter ' it would be more trouble than it's worth ', plus a weight penalty.

Ironside.

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PeterS - Have you located a donor yet ?
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Old 06-26-2014, 03:15 AM   #114 (permalink)
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I can buy one tomorrow Pete, CT110's are pretty common over here but I have a bathroom on the house to finish before I start any new projects.... it's nearly done but I have to have a rule of not starting new projects before the old ones are finished!! Otherwise I get all enthusiastic about the new and never finish the old.

Thanks for checking the screen for me, it sounds as if it will do. I do a lot of night riding and really enjoy it, especially country roads . My current bike, an '83 R80 ST BMW has recently had 2 x 20w LED spots fitted and they are wonderful! An amazing spread of light that makes country roads much safer with wandering cows and kangaroos..... and all for 20w 12v each.

On the Honda I'd mount something like this in the fairing .... these things a excellent value but cooling it might be a trick.
http://stores.advmonster.com/model-4...d-flood-light/

I have no idea if I will be able to run them on a CT110 but I hope so, even one would do. I'll have to ask one of the CT110 specialist resellers ... we have them.

Last edited by PeterS; 06-26-2014 at 06:18 AM..
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:27 AM   #115 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-hack View Post
Let us know when you have done a proper test between 'em, otherwise it is a waste of time, your "feels" aren't the best measure of efficiency or anything else. If you wish to make such a claim, but cannot back it up, then you should retract it. If you wish to act butt-hurt instead, well good luck with that.
I suspect you're in the chain business ...

I took two motorbikes of roughly the same weight, gave them roughly the same push (the kind of one step push when you're sat on a motorbike) along the same slop, one required two more pushes along the way, the other required braking.
So yes, I can't talk percentages and yes, you can blame dragging brakes (the dragging one being one disk at the front and one at the rear vs the other one with two discs at the front and a drum brake at the rear), clutch setup (wet vs dry) or planet alignement ...

I was not saying chains are of a worst efficiency, I was saying that FOR ME, superior efficiency of chains is not a definite fact as they get worn quite soon when used in bike condition.

You have all the rights to say it shouldn't be like that but telling me "my claim is idiotic" is odd to say the least.
It is not even a claim, it's an opinion !
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:09 AM   #116 (permalink)
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So many variables, hardly a mention of how you ruled out any of them, and you talk about wasting time... Planets?

Opinions, like if you like how something looks, are rubbish.
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Old 06-27-2014, 01:51 AM   #117 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterS View Post
I can buy one tomorrow Pete, CT110's are pretty common over here but I have a bathroom on the house to finish before I start any new projects.... it's nearly done but I have to have a rule of not starting new projects before the old ones are finished!! Otherwise I get all enthusiastic about the new and never finish the old.

Thanks for checking the screen for me, it sounds as if it will do. I do a lot of night riding and really enjoy it, especially country roads . My current bike, an '83 R80 ST BMW has recently had 2 x 20w LED spots fitted and they are wonderful! An amazing spread of light that makes country roads much safer with wandering cows and kangaroos..... and all for 20w 12v each.

On the Honda I'd mount something like this in the fairing .... these things a excellent value but cooling it might be a trick.
Model 44 LED off road flood light - ADVmonster

I have no idea if I will be able to run them on a CT110 but I hope so, even one would do. I'll have to ask one of the CT110 specialist resellers ... we have them.
OK, that's not looking very hopeful. It seems the CT110 has a very limited output and will run the 35/35 w headlight and tail light and that's about all.

A couple of options would be to set up LED spots to come on when the hi beam switch is flicked , instead of the normal hi beam bulb. That could be done with a bit of switching trickery and would give FAR better light than a miserable 35w bulb. As you can tell I've become addicted to really bright lights ! ( Call me the moth )

The other is to have the stator rewound to increase the ampage output. I'm not sure of that one and it would be expensive .
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Old 06-27-2014, 02:51 AM   #118 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterS View Post
OK, that's not looking very hopeful. It seems the CT110 has a very limited output and will run the 35/35 w headlight and tail light and that's about all.

A couple of options would be to set up LED spots to come on when the hi beam switch is flicked , instead of the normal hi beam bulb. That could be done with a bit of switching trickery and would give FAR better light than a miserable 35w bulb. As you can tell I've become addicted to really bright lights ! ( Call me the moth )

The other is to have the stator rewound to increase the ampage output. I'm not sure of that one and it would be expensive .
More watts for your lamps = less watts to drive you
If you can switch to full LED, it is more FE friendly (wouldn't know if it can even pay back though ...)
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Old 06-27-2014, 02:04 PM   #119 (permalink)
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I have a bathroom on the house to finish before I start any new projects....
I know what you mean, life gets in the way sometimes. I wouldn't want to crap in the yard either.
I'm no expert in terms of LED's, but Cubs have direct lighting (AC) and I know that many LED's will not work properly on 12v AC lighting circuits, so check before you buy.
Coincidentallly I also had a 1983 BMW R80 RT, excellent bike but a little thirsty.
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:48 PM   #120 (permalink)
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She sure is thirsty !


Last edited by PeterS; 06-27-2014 at 08:35 PM..
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