Removable air dam options

[Kodak]

So I was browsing the 65+ mod page, and was really impressed with BigDave's F350 air dam.

I've been in touch with him, and he has made some suggestions (thanks, man).

I was wondering if anyone can chime in with some how-to advice. Since I routinely go under the front end for oil changes (yeah, I just barely fit), I need to be able to remove the air dam on command. Additionally, I don't want to do any drilling or anything that would change the vehicle permanently. Dave suggested finding a clamping method. I've been wondering if I could somehow use snaps (like on some coats).

Any ideas on a non-invasive air dam would be greatly appreciated!

If necessary, I can post pictures of the stock fascia.

[bikin' Ed]

SNAPS would have to be mounted to the car with screws...therefore drilling.
I'd opt for a permanant dam and a better jack.

[Quasimoto]

The only thing I can think of that would not require drilling would be velcro. But holding up 30 pounds with velcro might be allot to ask of it.

[busypaws]

I'm using zip ties on my engine bay belly pan. If you can find enough Holes/lugs to attach to or replace some of the lower bumper bolts with "eye" bolts then you'd have something removable. Zipties are penny a piece when you buy in bulk.

I just put my airdam (Home Depot black lawn edging) with 10 sheet metal screws into the plastic bumper cover. They're underneath so you can only see them if you're under the car.

[Kodak]

I'd love to see some pics that show air dam attachment, if anyone has some readily available.

Thing is, mine has a sort of lip - it's not straight up and down: (edmunds pic of canyon front fascia) and I want to retain that aero shape. I understand that this shape helps to prevent lift.

However, the current fascia is 10" off the ground (it's a 2wd Z85), which BigDave explained is not the optimum height.

Extra details: Rear diff ~7.5 or 8" off the ground. Lowest hanging part near the front is about 8.5-9" off the ground. I figure an added 2" for an air dam would be a good start - maybe a bit lower if it ensures enough clearance.

[Big Dave]

Might be the easiest thing to do is raid a junk yard for parts you could drill and not be heartbroken.

Although mine is very tough, I've hit some stuff pretty hard. Mine is held to the bumper with eleven stainless steel 5/16" bolts.

[suspectnumber961]

I have a lawn edging air dam on my Focus...but it hits when entering driveways and would never handle snow...so this fall I'm going with a plywood underpan that will go from the OEM lip to the crossmember slightly back of the engine....held on by ~ 8 screws that I can easily remove.

Might produce some lift...but since I don't typically drive much over 55...probably won't be significant.

My guess is that a gradual slope to the avg undercarriage height will be more effective mpg wise anyway...the air has someplace to go rather than being bluntly shoved to the side?

Best bet would be a shape similar to the front of a boat...but I probably can't manage that.

[Kodak]

Thanks for the advice so far everyone.

I may have had a breakthrough today. I was examining the stock fascia when I noticed a few evenly spaced holes (from manufacturer) that might be able to hold a screw or zip-tie. Pics below.

The only downside is that due to the location of the holes, any air dam mounted there would cover the outward-facing lip design that I believe is beneficial to airflow (downforce). Hopefully I could replicate that shape with a homemade air dam.

It seems fairly straightforward that small nut and bolt would do the job here, but if anyone has any suggestions for the best way to mount an air dam from these holes, I'd appreciate it. (Potential first mod, unless you count the tonneau not installed by me).

Thanks for reading.



Almost forgot: I've been rethinking the design, and am wondering if mounting it from behind the original fascia would be more discreet and still provide some of the same benefits. Got the idea from the design of a Toyota Corolla I saw.

[larrybuck]

I think if you study your veh. as is, very closely; you will find existing bumper bolts that you could feed off of. I have built an air dam for my first Quantum wagon w great results. I used smooth rounded carriage bolts through the air dam, but used existing bumper bolts as feeder lines to add light weight predrilled universal bracket pieces that run vertical down from the bumper bolts. You're particular airdam height is so little, that it looks to me like 4 or 5 vertical runners would be strong enough w/o adding horizonal brackets or supports. I used L-shaped plastic brackets (90 degrees) as the go between the carriage bolt hook up, and the vertical brackets

With some cleverness on your part, you could drill holes sideways through the carriage or whatever you pick bolts; so you could fairly easily use GIANT no you bend Cotter Pins that are used for universal motorcycle axle retainment safety.

Pull 4-5 clips, and you are ready for snow season, or comfortable crawl under.
For high 4 wheel drives, this easy one/off, and for anyone w snow on/off could be very important!

A 2pc. dam could also be made, w the bottom half removable!

The plastic L absorbed a lot of vibration., and really made it secure in my case. My L's were about 3"x3"

With the Giant cotter pin use, one could possibly throw a smallish padlock on one of the locations.

If someone builds a substantial (high height) airdam, and finishes it nicely; it could be theft bait!!

I hope you turn out a great piece! ALOHA!

[Kodak]

Thanks for the ideas Larry. I looked around today and located two bumper bolts, but unfortunately their location is not favorable to an air dam. I like your idea for a 2 piece design, especially after having read about air dams that have caused problems in the snow.

Originally Posted by Big Dave

Might be the easiest thing to do is raid a junk yard for parts you could drill and not be heartbroken.

You might be right. I called around, but since 04 is the earliest Canyon year, it's hard to find the 'lower deflector' part. I am researching if the same part has been used on earlier model GM's. It's a $50 part, so a modest 1mpg gain would take about 8k to recoup the savings at current prices.

If the above works out, I think I'll add 3" height of black coroplast (or white painted with Krylon plastic flat black) to the front. A few small bolts would do it. Front diff at 7.5", revised air dam at 7". Seems about right. Maybe lower.

If this works, I'll post pics and results.

It would probably end up looking something like this: