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Old 08-03-2008, 03:10 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Thanks for the welcome! Great forum. love the graphic design.

That whole IEEE article is worth reading. There is a lot more information like that in it.

If there isn't one already, we should to coin a name for this type of hybrid.

how about SABH "solar assist battery hybrid"

or BAHD "battery assist hybrid design"

(I can't believe I just used smilies !!1!)

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Old 08-03-2008, 03:52 PM   #52 (permalink)
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I remembered that they sold these big battery emergency jump start kits at auto stores. They were fairly straightfoward, when your battery is dead you just plug these into your cigarette lighter socket and it allows you to start the car...

So why not simply kill the alternator and strap one of these on there, and you can power all the electrial systems of your car from one of these things, and then charge it when you get home...

here is an example of what I'm talking about:
car battery starter - Google Product Search
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Old 08-03-2008, 06:52 PM   #53 (permalink)
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blackjackel -

Here is one rated at 450AH :

Vector 2/4/6 Amp Battery Charger/Jump Starter/12-Volt DC Power Supply : JC Whitney: Auto Parts & Accessories

Quote:
* 450-amp power instantly starts dead batteries! Built-in 2/4/6-amp smart battery charger.
* Portable, cordless and rechargeable!
* Automatic on/off power control ensures safety and resists sparking
* 12-volt DC portable power outlet for DC accessories and appliances
* Rechargeable from home or vehicle—ideal for emergencies in remote locations

Features: clamps power-on only with proper polarity connection; microprocessor control (Digital Smart Control); high frequency power conversion technology; three stage automatic rapid charging battery charger; short circuit and reverse polarity protection (no spark) for user; 26" heavy-duty welders type cable and clamps; lightweight, high efficiency design; high-density, 19 Ah sealed, non-spillable battery; ultra bright 3 LED emergency work light; digital display battery diagnostics; alternator voltage check. Includes self-stored cables and clamps, 12-volt DC car cord and 2/4/6 AMP built-in smart battery charger with LED fault codes and battery diagnostics.
Question: Would this stand up to daily punishment?

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Old 08-03-2008, 11:14 PM   #54 (permalink)
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OT: orange4boy - feel like posting a thread in the Fossil Fuel Free forum about your minibike? I just learned what those were in May. One of the EV club members in Ottawa has one.
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Old 08-03-2008, 11:17 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfg83 View Post
Question: Would this stand up to daily punishment?
This question comes up occasionally on the EVDL by members who are considering using a bunch of them in place of a "proper" high voltage batt pack charger.

The Yodas of the list tend to answer "no". They're made to be inexpensive, not good, and since the overwhelming majority of consumer 12v chargers sit on shelves unused for most of their lifetime, the manufacturers can generally get away with cheap components because the duty cycle is so low.

But if it has a warranty...
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:49 AM   #56 (permalink)
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MetroMPG -

Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
This question comes up occasionally on the EVDL by members who are considering using a bunch of them in place of a "proper" high voltage batt pack charger.

The Yodas of the list tend to answer "no". They're made to be inexpensive, not good, and since the overwhelming majority of consumer 12v chargers sit on shelves unused for most of their lifetime, the manufacturers can generally get away with cheap components because the duty cycle is so low.

But if it has a warranty...
Ok, this is the kind of info I wanted to know.

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Old 08-04-2008, 02:54 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Question: How does turning the alternator on and off reduce the drag on the motor? I'm guesstimating that while it's on it has some sort of electromagnetic force causing the drag?

I know about rebuilding the mechanical bits of an alt., not sure on the technical bits of it... lol
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Old 08-04-2008, 05:31 AM   #58 (permalink)
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A good quality series 27 deep cycle battery has 105 ah (at the 20 min rate) and will probably have at least a 3 year warranty. (if you take care of it and never discharge past 50% or leave it sitting should last 5 years min.) Costco (Sam's club too I hear) price under $100. Tried. tested. true. The batt gadget has a crappy-ass chinese sealed lead acid anchor in it. The only thing going for that batt-of-all-trades is possibly the batt charger(IF it's any good and 6 amps ain't much) but it's truly a whole lot of cheap wrapped in a whole lot of plastic. Consumer crap in my opinion. At 19 amp hours not 450 (that' cranking amps.) you may just get to the end of your street before you hit 50% SOC. A typical starting battery has 650 CCA and a 70 min reserve at 25 amps. That's 25 X the multi thing.

Sorry if I busted anyone's bubble

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Old 08-04-2008, 03:06 PM   #59 (permalink)
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orange4boy -

Quote:
Originally Posted by orange4boy View Post
A good quality series 27 deep cycle battery has 105 ah (at the 20 min rate) and will probably have at least a 3 year warranty. (if you take care of it and never discharge past 50% or leave it sitting should last 5 years min.) Costco (Sam's club too I hear) price under $100. Tried. tested. true. The batt gadget has a crappy-ass chinese sealed lead acid anchor in it. The only thing going for that batt-of-all-trades is possibly the batt charger(IF it's any good and 6 amps ain't much) but it's truly a whole lot of cheap wrapped in a whole lot of plastic. Consumer crap in my opinion. At 19 amp hours not 450 (that' cranking amps.) you may just get to the end of your street before you hit 50% SOC. A typical starting battery has 650 CCA and a 70 min reserve at 25 amps. That's 25 X the multi thing.

Sorry if I busted anyone's bubble

"Buy the best and only cry once"
Thanks. Better a busted bubble than a busted wallet, I always say (well, for the first time that I know of, anyway).

CarloSW2
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Old 08-04-2008, 03:36 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfg83 View Post
My Saturn DRLs use the high beams, so I disabled them. I don't know if they were at full power under DRL state, so I only give myself a 5-10 Amp credit for that.
CarloSW2, I think you may be able to claim even more. The high beams on your car are single-filament. (9005) bulbs. It's a good thing that they're used for DRLs rather than the low beams from a longevity standpoint - you would be mad if your low beams burned out prematurely from running them as DRLs, whereas your high beams are not as important to drive day-to-day.
Some cars have dual filament bulbs for the high beam and DRLs, so they don't waste electricity at such a high rate.

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