The results are in...

[Swiftbow]

No, I don't. While it's worth searching for a possible higher temp stat, I don't expect you'll be successful. For the KLR650 and the new KLX250, there is no other option then the Kawi 160F stat. A radiator bypass mod using a small auto 190F stat was the only option.

I've seen discussions about removing the wax pellet and transplanting but have never heard of anyone actually doing it.

Doug

[The Atomic Ass]

Well, my temporary makeshift block heater is in place... And it works, albeit inefficiently.

It's a 1,400 watt electric paint stripper, (a hair dryer on steroids), set upright pointing at the block. It's a fireman's nightmare.

[Swiftbow]

Do you have a means of checking oil temp? Otherwise, effectiveness is just a guess.

Doug

[The Atomic Ass]

Originally Posted by Swiftbow

Do you have a means of checking oil temp? Otherwise, effectiveness is just a guess.

Doug

The hot air is hitting the bottom front of the engine, about where the oil settles, while the rear of the engine, directly beneath the carburetors is not cold to the touch, and, most importantly, the engine cranks up without choke. It also begins registering coolant temp within a block, as well as the engine-oil-bathed transmission shifts remarkably smoother. Although I do have an infrared thermometer, I haven't thought to check that point. I'll do that on my next ride.

[Christ]

If you have a very shallow dipstick hole, just stick a crap thermometer in there for a min, and see what it comes up to. Better yet, check how fast the temp rises, so you can gauge how much of your 1.4Kw you're actually getting heat from, versus how much is just dissipating. For something as small as a bike engine, I'd assume you're losing alot of that heat to the open air.

Maybe pull the heater apart and mount the inductive coil element inside the block, or at least wrapped around the block? (Not sure if you need the paint stripper for a paint stripper...)

[The Atomic Ass]

Originally Posted by Christ

If you have a very shallow dipstick hole, just stick a crap thermometer in there for a min, and see what it comes up to. Better yet, check how fast the temp rises, so you can gauge how much of your 1.4Kw you're actually getting heat from, versus how much is just dissipating. For something as small as a bike engine, I'd assume you're losing alot of that heat to the open air.

Maybe pull the heater apart and mount the inductive coil element inside the block, or at least wrapped around the block? (Not sure if you need the paint stripper for a paint stripper...)

Well, it isn't my stripper to destroy (that did NOT sound right ), it's on loan. Aside from that, the inductive element glows orange. I think that's just a touch too hot for direct oil contact. Also, if you check the pictures you sent me, you'll see there is no dipstick, just a oil filler hole, on top of the front of the clutch casing. The raised section on the side of the head and cylinder points directly to it.

So basically there's no getting to the oil the easy way. I'm looking into getting a pad heater to wrap around the oil filter portion of the case, (the oil filter is an internal type). The possibility exists to mount a direct oil heater through the drain plug, but I have no idea how much clearance there is, if any, at the bottom of the case.

Since the price to operate the paint stripper is already so low, ($0.13 per trip, rough estimate), and the other end is basically paid for via my employer, I'm not in a hurry to change it.

[Christ]

Haha - Good points.

I didnt' get that bike. She sold it before she sent me the pics. Ain't that about a... yeah.

IN fact, I put offers out on about 15 bikes... got nothing in return. Seems that some people would rather see them rot than take anything less than the 50% markup they've applied to the already ridiculous KBB value.

[Swiftbow]

It might be difficult to get the probe section of a standard or meat thermometer in full contact with the oil. And while an infrared thermometer I'm sure would prove useful for a host of applications; one example is they are a crude but effective means of checking lean/rich carb adjustment by measuring temp of the header pipe BUT I don't believe it would work that well at measuring oil temp.

I would suggest getting a thermometer using a thermocouple wire that can be placed down the fill hole. I have two; one came as an option on a multimeter and another I purchased for datalogging capability - but this option is fairly expensive. I would suggest a simple thermocouple system as once you have it, you'll find all kinds of uses. I did a quick google and found a cheap one. There very well could be others cheaper and I make no recommendations about this one as I don't know anything specific about it but would highly recommend researching and getting one as I know it will prove useful with your intrigue in FE experiments: Professional low cost Digital Multimeter with Temperature Function

I also would recommend sending an email to Watt-man at the KLR650 radiator-bypass link I gave earlier. He is a mechanical engineer and very knowledgeable about efficiency and correlation with temperatures. He's also a bike and auto enthusiast. While the lil'Ninja is noted for high FE, the coolant system of cyclic shocks of cold/hot/cold/hot ... predisposes this bike to accelerated wear and reduces potential of further, increased fuel efficiency. While Watt-man doesn't have anything specific for your bike, he would be a good person to seek advice on improving the coolant/temperature issue.

[The Atomic Ass]

Originally Posted by Swiftbow

I would suggest getting a thermometer using a thermocouple wire that can be placed down the fill hole.

No can do. The fill hole is aimed directly at the clutch. There isn't enough room around the clutch to reach the oil pan itself.

The oil sight glass on the other hand would be an excellent place to use my infrared thermometer, so whenever I find the damn thing, I'll use that. Don'tcha hate it when the exact tool you saw and didn't need last week, you need and don't see this week?

[Swiftbow]

Unfortunately, while IR thermometers are great, especially now that their prices have come down substantially, they don't read through glass. The temperature reading through the sight glass won't be accurate or of much value in giving the ninja's oil temp.

As for the thermocouple, it will work. The wire is very thin and flexible. While looking at your oil fill opening, the clutch basket is to the left. There's more then enough clearance for the wire to slide down the sidecover to the oil level. On your bike, the thermocouple will have no problem. In fact, this is the whole reason and purpose for their use, getting into tight, tough spots.

As a side, the wire will also feed easily into an auto dipstick tube. The wires are also usually supplied in 3ft lengths but just about any length can be ordered.

Doug