reuseable drop in air filters?

[Chris D.]

Originally Posted by Ryland

I bought my car with a foam air filter and run foam air filters on all my motorcycles, I used to use K&N filters on my motorcycles but they left way to much grit in the carburetor, so I made my own foam filters with bulk air filter foam from a motorcycle parts store, I use the same high tack filter oil as the K&N filters call for, my carburetor stays clean, my performance is the same as with the K&N and better then it was with the paper filter, for my car I keep a spare paper filter on hand so I can drop it in while I wash the foam filter.
I know that last time I checked amsoil was selling dry "microfiber" air filters, that they claimed caught more dirt then paper or K&N filters, and had as good if not better air flow to K&N filters, and apparently you blow them clean with compressed air, but they don't make one for the VX last I checked.

I just got a instant message from a friend mentioning the amsoil..
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eaa.aspx

has potential and the price isn't too bad, has a decent warranty as well..

Originally Posted by trebuchet03

Dirty air filter doesn't mean restricted flow

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2232/article.html

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The only filters I change frequently are:
*Oil: 10K Miles @ oil change
*Cabin Filter: 25K miles (and I spend the $30 for the factory one because it has a charcoal layer - it has worked pretty well at filtering diesel exhaust )

I change my air filters when the rubber/plastic seal falls apart.. Probably if the oil analysis shows a consistent rise in silica too.

great link! sounds like a dealer filter mite be the way to go and i'll do whats called the "elbow mod" in the Tacoma world to my airbox which removes a slight restriction from before the airbox..

[Duffman]

http://www.duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm

I would only use a non-paper element in somthing that could use the extra air flow (ie a diesel or performance car)

[fabrio.]

Originally Posted by Chris D.

I just paid well over 20 bucks for a cheapo fram air filter..

everythings going up cost wize and I think its time for a cleanable air filter..

I'm not a fan of K&N, but I wanted to ask the collective on thoughts for reuseable or possibly cheap alternative air filters that will ensure my engines getting some clean air..

I had a hard time forking over 16 bucks for an air filter, but come on.. 20 and change?

gimme a break..

This economy is so far off balance its ridiculous.
Glad i found this site, the timing was good for me

A solution came from a self made air filter, like my work

this below, it is finale result :



full article here: http://tigrafans.forumcommunity.net/?t=6209194

[H4MM3R]

I have been using K&N air filters for 15yrs.

[Big Dave]

The subject of air filters has been studied to death by trucking companies, railroads and river towboat operators. Literally thousands of studies, done over decades.

The unanimous conclusion: A paper air filter puts the cleanest air into your engine. Oiled fiberglas lets much more dirt into your engine. Dirt equals wear and engine parts are much more expensive than fuel.

Further, a paper filter gets more efficient at removing dirt as it builds us a “cake” of air on its intake side. In fact, it is most effective as a filter just before it plugs up entirely. Some industrial operators will dust on some lime before they install an air filter to get a “starter cake.” A K&N gets less efficient as it builds up a cake, because as the sticky surfaces are fouled, they just let the dirt zoom on through.

I pay $39 for my huge air filter – a Baldwin PA2818. But it lasts me a year.

An example. My father’s 1950 Chevy had a oiled media air filter. At 60,000 miles it smoked like a mosquito fogger, and simply had to be overhauled. My F350 has a big paper filter and after 210,000 miles evinces no indication of wear. In fact, because I go 50,000 miles between oil changes, I have to occasionally send samples of my oil off for analysis. My latest was a couple weeks ago and it showed zero silicon. Silicon is dirt. Also my oil showed very low for iron. Iron indicates machine part wear.

Stick with the paper filter. Go online and find the same one at lower cost.

[trebuchet03]

My latest was a couple weeks ago and it showed zero silicon. Silicon is dirt. Also my oil showed very low for iron. Iron indicates machine part wear.

Whoa, what oil brand are you using? Many oil companies add a tiny bit of Si as an anti foamant (off the top of my head, Blackstone labs recommends Si levels less than 5 or 6 (whatever units it is they use). I'm not calling BS - just curious (I usually range between 1 and 3 on the Si level - I get oil analysis done at every oil change every 10K miles).

[diesel_john]

[QUOTE=fabrio.;17825]A solution came from a self made air filter, like my work


fabrio. is that added in front of your stock filter?

The best thing I like about K&N is mice can't chew thur the steel mesh. I do use one the Vett race only.

But with the K&N my crankase vent system doesn't work as well on the diesel.
The vacuum pump doesn't work as well because it is hooked to the crankcase.
It doesn't filter the fine particles as well because my intake is getting dirty.
The K&N allows a louder intake noise on the diesel.
I did not gain any mileage improvement, if anything lost, because less crankcase vacuum.

quote""I would only use a non-paper element in somthing that could use the extra air flow (ie a diesel or performance car)""
More air won't help if I am already running an air/ fuel ratio of 100 to 1.

quote""I'm going to try just using my air compressor and blowing the dirt out of the paper one from the back side (clean side).""
Most engine manuals warn against blowing out paper elements with any thing but low pressure regulated air, tapping the metal canister kind against a tire for xample is allowed on a combine harvester for example were I can get a pound (1Lb.) of fuzz in the trap in one afternoon.

I wish i had my $35 back on the one for the VW diesel.

I hold the paper ones up to the sun and if i can see light on every pleat, i put it back in. My big diesels have a sensor and a red light if the filter becomes too restrictive. Why not all cars?

[LostCause]

I think I paid ~$8 when I replaced my air filter. I would like to see the result of your cleaning attempts on a paper filter, though.

Generally, I think the OEM knows best when it comes to maintenance schedules. My manual claims a 30,000 service interval for replacing filter elements. Unless you drive in an extremely dusty environment, I don't see the need or benefit of frequent replacements.

Apart from lowering the service interval, you could save money by modifying your airbox to accept a cheaper filter element. Almost all modern elements are rectangular in cross section nowadays and I doubt they vary much between car models. Resizing the airbox could save $6-8 easily.

- LostCause

[Chris D.]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

Yer lecturing me on maintenance? LMAO

Changing filters every 3k isn't only anal- it's foolish and wasteful.

well, my vehicle goes places your street car doesn't..
if i had a street vehicle, it would be a different story..

construction sites aren't the cleanest places in the world..

my last filter change had about 1/2" of dirt on the clean side bottom of the airbox..
I have to shop vac it every filter change..

I donno if I would have been so rude/blunt by calling me foolish, we're
here to share experiences and aim for a common goal of maximum efficency.

Seems like every forum has their resident prick, but I actually
dig it when people dont sugar coat **** so your good by me..
Just watch out for those whiny emo people that get butthurt easily..
You mite scare em off..

[diesel_john]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

I solve the mouse problem with 1/4" screen over the snorkel.

They can't eat the screen, so they back up to it and dissolve it by chemical means.

I have centrifugal separators on the really dusty applications, ahead of the paper elements.

oh, what's LMAO