04-05-2008, 02:25 AM
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#21 (permalink)
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MechE
Join Date: Dec 2007
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Cars have not created a new problem. They merely made more urgent the necessity to solve existing ones.
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04-05-2008, 02:52 AM
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#22 (permalink)
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EcoModding Minded
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Eagan, MN
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look at da baby kittie!!!!!
your only seeing the clean pictures LOL
I had bugs on bugs on bugs on the front end till yesterday.
your definition of slammed is a bit off, mine is only a 2/3 stance vs stock..
heres my truck..
I just have some cheapo 16" wheels to drop weight..
thats actually a factory size wheel for my truck..
this illustrates "slammed" w/"rims" just for you Frank
slammed = tucking wheel/tire FYI..
I think "rims" in a cool factor start at least a 17" size to qualify as cool on at least a 50 series tire..
still very capable..
hard to keep it clean, but when it is.. at least once a month
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04-05-2008, 06:35 AM
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#23 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Italy, Morbegno (SO)
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[QUOTE=diesel_john;17912]
Quote:
Originally Posted by fabrio.
A solution came from a self made air filter, like my work
fabrio. is that added in front of your stock filter?
The best thing I like about K&N is mice can't chew thur the steel mesh. I do use one the Vett race only.
But with the K&N my crankase vent system doesn't work as well on the diesel.
The vacuum pump doesn't work as well because it is hooked to the crankcase.
It doesn't filter the fine particles as well because my intake is getting dirty.
The K&N allows a louder intake noise on the diesel.
I did not gain any mileage improvement, if anything lost, because less crankcase vacuum.
quote""I would only use a non-paper element in somthing that could use the extra air flow (ie a diesel or performance car)""
More air won't help if I am already running an air/ fuel ratio of 100 to 1.
quote""I'm going to try just using my air compressor and blowing the dirt out of the paper one from the back side (clean side).""
Most engine manuals warn against blowing out paper elements with any thing but low pressure regulated air, tapping the metal canister kind against a tire for xample is allowed on a combine harvester for example were I can get a pound (1Lb.) of fuzz in the trap in one afternoon.
I wish i had my $35 back on the one for the VW diesel.
I hold the paper ones up to the sun and if i can see light on every pleat, i put it back in. My big diesels have a sensor and a red light if the filter becomes too restrictive. Why not all cars?
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no!
this self made foam air filter it replaces the original foam element.
It use, the foam from another airfilter, new steel mesh, the original filter's structure and black silicon for adhesive by materials.
Complete work, include, mods at external and internal snorkels, with new horn profile at mouth of intake tube.
total cost, about 6€ for the foam, e two hours of work (only for new air filter).
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04-05-2008, 10:53 AM
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#24 (permalink)
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Giant Moving Eco-Wall
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: The Dale, IL (or A-Dale)
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Quote:
The best thing I like about K&N is mice can't chew thur the steel mesh. I do use one the Vett race only.
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Speaking of mice... I found one the other day in my engine bay while trying to replace my valve cover gasket. It was dead and didn't have anything to make it's nest cause it died from what I guess heat... it was found near the exhaust
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04-06-2008, 09:15 AM
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#25 (permalink)
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EV OR DIESEL
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South Louisiana
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E5XQDY
Run a paper filter then replace whenever the minder moves. End of problem. You will be shocked how long you can run a filter with out much restriction.
These are just re-branded filter minders, if you want a ford, Cummins, Amsoil, etc just buy one of those they are the same other than the attachment system
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2016 Tesla Model X
2022 Sprinter
Gone 2012 Tesla Model S P85
Gone 2013 Nissan LEAF SV
2012 Nissan LEAF SV
6 speed ALH TDI Swapped in to a 2003 Jetta Wagon
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04-06-2008, 11:32 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Giant Moving Eco-Wall
Join Date: Dec 2007
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Quote:
Run a paper filter then replace whenever the minder moves. End of problem. You will be shocked how long you can run a filter with out much restriction.
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Most people aren't concerned about restriction, it's mostly filtration. Power hungry guys are usually worried about restriction from the air filter. If you talk about not running a K&N cause they don't filter good enough but you don't change your filters for 60k or 70K+ miles, and you just shake the loose dirt off, how good is the filter filtering even after a good shake? That's just my question.
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04-06-2008, 11:39 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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EV OR DIESEL
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South Louisiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DifferentPointofView
Most people aren't concerned about restriction, it's mostly filtration. Power hungry guys are usually worried about restriction from the air filter. If you talk about not running a K&N cause they don't filter good enough but you don't change your filters for 60k or 70K+ miles, and you just shake the loose dirt off, how good is the filter filtering even after a good shake? That's just my question.
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Well, let me shock you (it surprised me at first)
Dirt is a Great filter!
In fact it catches dirt better than most things. Don't believe me? Check out K&N's literature, they state that their filters filter best with about 1/4" of debris build up.
__________________
2016 Tesla Model X
2022 Sprinter
Gone 2012 Tesla Model S P85
Gone 2013 Nissan LEAF SV
2012 Nissan LEAF SV
6 speed ALH TDI Swapped in to a 2003 Jetta Wagon
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04-06-2008, 11:42 PM
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#28 (permalink)
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MechE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Bay Area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DifferentPointofView
Most people aren't concerned about restriction, it's mostly filtration. Power hungry guys are usually worried about restriction from the air filter. If you talk about not running a K&N cause they don't filter good enough but you don't change your filters for 60k or 70K+ miles, and you just shake the loose dirt off, how good is the filter filtering even after a good shake? That's just my question.
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A very good question indeed.... Something worth exploring in my opinion
I'm willing to run a test similar to the bobistheoilguy test But, my filter only has ~30K miles on it....
I would put the testing paper in for the old filter - then switch out for a new one and run the same testing miles.
Any suggestions?
Oh, I don't tap my filters - I just put a vacuum in the airbox to clear any dirt that fell off the filter into the bottom of the case (which is the filter inlet side). There's no particular reason for this
On another note - I've got oil analysis showing that the filter is working in it's current state (as per silica levels in my old oil)
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Cars have not created a new problem. They merely made more urgent the necessity to solve existing ones.
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04-06-2008, 11:43 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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Giant Moving Eco-Wall
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That's a lot of debris!!!
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04-06-2008, 11:46 PM
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#30 (permalink)
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MechE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Bay Area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dremd
Well, let me shock you (it surprised me at first)
Dirt is a Great filter!
In fact it catches dirt better than most things. Don't believe me? Check out K&N's literature, they state that their filters filter best with about 1/4" of debris build up.
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Sure, but dirt is abrasive.... If the dirt is enlarging the holes in the filter media - is tapping it out necessarily a good thing?
This is an intriguing question... If we're empirically denouncing the k&n design - we should, at the very least, empirically test our own practices. Sure, the replaceable filter doesn't filter well - but that's not evidence that a 60K mile paper element does
Quote:
That's a lot of debris!!!
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It's not much (typically) We're talking a tiny bit of dirt stuck in the corners
__________________
Cars have not created a new problem. They merely made more urgent the necessity to solve existing ones.
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