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Old 06-29-2014, 05:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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RTV/How Much to Use on Oil Pan?

After the removal of my exhaust system, I'd recently discovered that my rusty oil pan was about to fail due to years of exposure to road salt. Naturally, I'd decided that this would be a good time to replace the oil pan on my 94 Honda Civic.

So far, I've read lots of conflicting threads regarding how much RTV is to be used along with where it should be applied. For example, I've read that I should install the gasket dry, or install the gasket and a small amount of RTV in certain spots. I've also read that a thin amount of RTV should be applied around the oil pan & the bottom of the block.

In short, I'm hoping to get a definitive answer. Just like with any project, I'm hoping to do it right and do it once.

Thank You.

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Old 06-29-2014, 06:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would use just enough to coat the gasket, using my fingers to spread it out in a very thin layer, just enough to make it wet all over the gasket.

Make sure the bolt holes are not protruding too much from the flat portion of the gasket surface on the oil pan (if sheet metal). I like to tap them down until they are level, not anything hard just enough to get them flush with a few taps.

Make sure you do not overtighten the bolts. When you see the gasket start to spread out where the bolt is located then it's time to stop tightening it. The torque specs are very low for pan gasket bolts, but the gasket starting to spread out is the best way to tell if it is tight enough. A dab of sealer on the bolt threads is a good idea.

You can actually tighten them enough with a nut driver instead of a ratchet.

Clean both surfaces meticulously both block and pan. A razor blade and scotchbrite work well. A little clean up with gas or thinner to make sure there is no oil residue.

regards
Mech
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
I would use just enough to coat the gasket, using my fingers to spread it out in a very thin layer, just enough to make it wet all over the gasket.

Make sure the bolt holes are not protruding too much from the flat portion of the gasket surface on the oil pan (if sheet metal). I like to tap them down until they are level, not anything hard just enough to get them flush with a few taps.

Make sure you do not overtighten the bolts. When you see the gasket start to spread out where the bolt is located then it's time to stop tightening it. The torque specs are very low for pan gasket bolts, but the gasket starting to spread out is the best way to tell if it is tight enough. A dab of sealer on the bolt threads is a good idea.

You can actually tighten them enough with a nut driver instead of a ratchet.

Clean both surfaces meticulously both block and pan. A razor blade and scotchbrite work well. A little clean up with gas or thinner to make sure there is no oil residue.

regards
Mech
Should I dab some on the block as well?
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I wouldn't, you should not need to, but if it makes you feel better then just a finger spreading it around, just enough to make it look wet. It would be different if you did not use a gasket, but then the oil pan would be different and have a channel to put the rtv in and you would just lay a bead and slap it on. Use the stickines of the rtv to stick the gasket to the block, using a bolt to line up the holes. Put every bolt in the pan before you tighten any of them and start in the middle, easy does it.

regards
Mech
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Im more of a gasket guy and when it comes to oil and valve pans clean the surfaces and look for signs of over tightening. I bang those level and carefully tighten them up with a nut driver as to not do it too tightly.
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Does Honda recommend a high-temperature and/or oxygen sensor safe RTV?
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Old 07-03-2014, 04:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
I wouldn't, you should not need to, but if it makes you feel better then just a finger spreading it around, just enough to make it look wet. It would be different if you did not use a gasket, but then the oil pan would be different and have a channel to put the rtv in and you would just lay a bead and slap it on. Use the stickines of the rtv to stick the gasket to the block, using a bolt to line up the holes. Put every bolt in the pan before you tighten any of them and start in the middle, easy does it.

regards
Mech
As of yesterday, I installed the oil pan per your suggestions, and let the RTV cure overnight. Today I've added oil and so far, I haven't noticed any leaks. For the moment, I've decide to use regular motor oil, so as not to incur any more costs, in case it does leak.

As for the Amsoil which had less than 1,000 miles of use, I had initially filtered 3 quarts through two coffee filters, while noting that there were wasn't any sediment at the bottom of the old oil pan or in the coffee filters.

Still I've decided to play it safe, whereas I will be buying four more quarts of Amsoil by the end of the summer. I'm happy to say that it won't be a complete loss, given that my CX needs an oil change, whereas it's my beater car, and I'm not too concerned what goes into that reck.

Thanks again for all your help.
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i agree, just enough to coat the gasket
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I'm happy to say that it's been almost a month and there hasn't been so much as a single drop of oil falling from the pan. It was an altogether successful operation.

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