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Old 04-12-2008, 05:09 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Chris -

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Originally Posted by Chris D. View Post
the SG shows fuel flow?!?

just got in on a group buy just in time!
cant wait for all this new instrumentation..
I love gadgets..

I still can't quite grasp this pulse and glide technique..
From what I have observed, if the SG instant MPG goes to 9999 (think of 9999 as divide by zero, i.e. "X MPH / 0 GPH" ) when you are decelerating, then you have DFCO. I don't, .

The P&G is definitely counter-intuitive, and car specific. It works best with cars with good aerodynamics. For boxy cars like a Scion Xb, it's not practical because the glide is not long enough to justify the pulse.

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Old 04-12-2008, 05:15 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I believe I have one of the most aero styled minitrucks out there..

I'm sure I could mod accordinly..

the numbers you threw out there dont make sense to me
(mathamatically disadvantaged)
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Old 04-12-2008, 08:53 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Load and RPM dependent

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Originally Posted by boxchain View Post
Thanks for the info Harpo. What's your rpm at DFCO trigger?

Coming down from a bridge (since we don't have hills )
As Elixer mentions, there are some hard factors like RPM. Anything above 35mph in OD seems to get DFCO to trigger. Below 35mph on OD DFCO does not trigger, implying the rpms are below the threshold. In the same scenario, with trans in 3rd, you can get lower DFCO mph, due to higher rpm, but glide is affected.

The manual says flat towing at ~35mph. Therefore, I won't go into neutral above 35mph. I've built several RWD tranmissions in my day, and some do not oil well without engine ouput and should not be flat towed at all. I try to get 'er in to N right at 35mph before DFCO releases resulting in a .05-.08gph reduction of fuel flow and longer glide if required. Timing with traffic is essential. Jumping back-forth to N in some traffic just isn't worth it to me.

I accept DFCO in OD on the long grade downhills where I can maintain 50mph+. Sure, I'd like to coast a bit farther, but no fuel flow and four 9's is where it's at! If it's rolling and I know I need energy to maintain speed without undue excessive load condition, I'll roll in 0.5gpm toward the bottom and accept a 10mph gain so I can sacrifice it at the top.

H.P. Long has a good grade! I grew up around your parts. I last lived on West End BLVD. Flood Town USA.
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Old 04-12-2008, 02:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harpo View Post
As Elixer mentions, there are some hard factors like RPM. Anything above 35mph in OD seems to get DFCO to trigger. Below 35mph on OD DFCO does not trigger, implying the rpms are below the threshold. In the same scenario, with trans in 3rd, you can get lower DFCO mph, due to higher rpm, but glide is affected
....
H.P. Long has a good grade! I grew up around your parts. I last lived on West End BLVD. Flood Town USA.
And that's why I'm trying to find out what the rpm trigger is. Might be different for an aut*m*tic, I know idle speed is and lots more complicated control algorithms. I've heard 1200-1500, but knowing where on my model could make a big difference for me.

I don't really P&G much on long steady stretches, since I don't have many. I mostly DWLBE (by ear ) and EOC, lots of traffic lights on my route, but not enough that they're easy to time, and the city of NO doesn't understand light timing one bit But I've been using DFCO more, in a lot of cases I'll come up to a stale red and try to engine brake from afar while trying to conserve momentum since I think it's turning green soon. The difference between shifting up at 1500 and 1200 seems significant from a speed rate perspective, but I'd hate to find that I'm burning fuel during some of this.

I guess you left before they put the Lake in Lakeview? They are widening the HPL, I wanna take my gf and some other new in town folks over it so they can experience 2-9' lanes and no shoulder, steep grade, with a curve near the bottom. A while back a truck tried to pass another truck (strictly forbidden) and they got stuck and had to close the bridge for an afternoon.

I drive to Michoud daily, so I can either take Paris road or the high rise, both very tall bridges over stupid canals.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RH77
It's supposed to return to the low 30's again, so no worries yet on the A/C -- but I use the same kinda technique in the warmer months: manual cycling of the A/C on-off with recirc and med-hi fan depending on decel or highway downhill.
Yeah our low was in the mid 20s last night...Celsius! But we're getting part of the same cold snap, so we'll be in the 40s for a few nights.
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Old 04-12-2008, 02:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxchain View Post

I mostly DWLBE (by ear )

I guess you left before they put the Lake in Lakeview? They are widening the HPL,
Ok what do these abbreviation mean please? If we could cut down some of this it will help those new to the site until we get some kind of usable glossary.
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Old 04-12-2008, 03:08 PM   #16 (permalink)
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DWL = driving with load.

HPL = Huey P Long, which is the second to last bridge over the Mississippi.

I love that Smart on your icon. Saw it on Jalopnik, but would really like to see it in action
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Old 04-12-2008, 04:56 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Ah, this brings up an interesting point about recirc and Cd. In my VW Jetta, when I travel at highway speeds, when I turn on the recirculate for the AC, I begin to hear wind noise near the front of the windshield (passenger side). If I'm hearing it inside the cabin, I'm sure it must be hurting the Cd. I'm not hypermiling my Jetta, but its definitely an interesting thought.

The fresh air intake gets closed, which I'm assuming is why I hear the wind noise. I've planned to tape over the air vents in the front of my Aspire for this very reason.
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Old 04-12-2008, 07:51 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbergeron View Post
Ah, this brings up an interesting point about recirc and Cd. In my VW Jetta, when I travel at highway speeds, when I turn on the recirculate for the AC, I begin to hear wind noise near the front of the windshield (passenger side). If I'm hearing it inside the cabin, I'm sure it must be hurting the Cd. I'm not hypermiling my Jetta, but its definitely an interesting thought.

The fresh air intake gets closed, which I'm assuming is why I hear the wind noise. I've planned to tape over the air vents in the front of my Aspire for this very reason.
Another test to do! Coool!

Quote:
I guess you left before they put the Lake in Lakeview? They are widening the HPL, I wanna take my gf and some other new in town folks over it so they can experience 2-9' lanes and no shoulder, steep grade, with a curve near the bottom.
Yep. We left in 1995, back to Gainesville Area. I had my own business that was region agnostic, and the spousal unit wanted to go back to school. I was born/raised in Bossier and went to LSU through graduate school. One of my childhood nightmares was about that stinkin' bridge. I've made many a trip over HPL since. I miss the town and lifestyle, but not the traffic or routes.
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Old 04-13-2008, 01:51 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Ah, this brings up an interesting point about recirc and Cd. In my VW Jetta, when I travel at highway speeds, when I turn on the recirculate for the AC, I begin to hear wind noise near the front of the windshield (passenger side). If I'm hearing it inside the cabin, I'm sure it must be hurting the Cd. I'm not hypermiling my Jetta, but its definitely an interesting thought.

The fresh air intake gets closed, which I'm assuming is why I hear the wind noise. I've planned to tape over the air vents in the front of my Aspire for this very reason.
A couple of ideas here -- just humble speculation, if I may ...

The recirc intake is generally on the passenger side under the glove-box, which may explain the noise.

Second, I would tend to think that not having to force air into the cabin would decrease drag (like blowing air through a straw -- and the one-way flapper in the rear of the vehicle lets the fresh air flow out at its own rate). Avoiding this creates a cleaner flow?

Now for my situation: the cabin air intake is completely covered by the hood:

Hood Closed:


Note on the passenger side, the notch for the false panel...

Hood Open:


Oddly placed inlets...

The rubber seal should, well, seal -- but it doesn't. This makes Winter better and Summer a scorcher -- sucks engine bay air. You can smell what's going on under there (it's how an oozing valve cover and resultant oil burn-off was the tipping point for replacement).

I need to get a snorkel or something fabricated this Summer -- the windows rolled down should definitely increase Cd compared to a slight redirect (?). It may double as an ambient-air intake. There's a removable panel by the battery that's about 12" wide and a few inches deep. Not sure why this is here



The battery and wiring would need some genuine weather-protection. So there ya go...

Highway driving in the Summer with the windows up is a bake oven for this reason (even with the windows cracked). So the A/C comes in. I can't sweat too much for work purposes .

Constructive criticism/suggestions are welcome.

RH77
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Old 04-14-2008, 12:17 PM   #20 (permalink)
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What we need is an A/C Auto setting. Only Run compressor on Decel/ super light load. With tat load point increasing as the interior temperature rises.

Sounds Like a plan?

I still need Tint :-(

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