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Old 04-15-2012, 04:21 PM   #21 (permalink)
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mcrews -

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Originally Posted by mcrews View Post
this should give you an idea of the force of the air coming under the car at highway speeds:

...

it will peal back gorilla tape.....
I think the general rule-of-thumb is to fish-scale wherever possible. You don't need the gorilla tape if the lip of the bumper covers that start of the belly pan.

CarloSW2

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Old 04-15-2012, 04:41 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Why would you use metal?
I have 58K miles on a coroplast belly pan.
The idea is to use the lightest material possible.
Which underbelly pan projects have you studied here?
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ECO MODS PERFORMED:
First: ScangaugeII
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...eii-23306.html

Second: Grille Block
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...e-10912-2.html

Third: Full underbelly pan
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...q45-11402.html

Fourth: rear skirts and 30.4mpg on trip!
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post247938
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Old 04-15-2012, 05:36 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NickelB NL View Post
For my car i am planning a alu 1x1 square rigid frame with attachments every 20 25 inch. And then alu sheets rivit on the frame. And under the engine a sheet rivit to a single frame witch is bolted on. Maybe a little more expencive. But heat proof, rigit and practicly completly flat. And then on the sides also from sheet wheel wide skirts lower than de belly pan
also a pita to get on or off. even if I could afford to do it RIGHT, I want an easy on easy off. when I go to a mechanic they treat me strange because I am a bit awkward, I don't need them knowing every little weird thing I do! :P

I am also trying to keep it easy to return to stock. nothing permanent!
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:20 PM   #24 (permalink)
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redorchestra -

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Originally Posted by redorchestra View Post
also a pita to get on or off. even if I could afford to do it RIGHT, I want an easy on easy off. when I go to a mechanic they treat me strange because I am a bit awkward, I don't need them knowing every little weird thing I do! :P

I am also trying to keep it easy to return to stock. nothing permanent!
Egg-zactly why I have not seriously considered this mod. Right now, before I go to a mechanic, I can get the car demodded within 45 minutes with maybe 60 minutes to re-mod it. The de-mods I do are the hot-air-intake, the wheel covers, the side skirts, and the rear wheel skirts. All of those have been *designed* for relatively easy on/off.

I think it's not fair to leave your mods on when a car is being serviced. If they break something or get injured, whose fault is it? At a minimum you are adding to your own repair bill in off/on labor charges.

For a belly pan I would want Dzus fastener mountings that aren't more than an arm's length under the car (no lifts please). This means a better *design*, which takes at least more time if not (much) more money to accomplish.

CarloSW2
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Old 04-16-2012, 03:43 PM   #25 (permalink)
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My thoughts come from racecars, who have a real smooth pan. But maybe 3 or 4 alu 1x1 guides to put the plastics on is a better idea. With loops for the band coming trough. And to keep in mind where the acces points ar, so its easy to maintain.

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