03-23-2012, 08:30 AM
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#31 (permalink)
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Do more with less
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When I do lay ups I cover the surface with rip stop nylon or polyester fabric. On compound curves I use strips about 2 inches wide. It produces a smooth surface and makes sure that the edges of the composite are embedded in the resin, just peel off the cloth. If another layer is required you have a great surface to do a secondary layup, no sanding.
Some hints I would ad is to make sure you don't have any wrinkles in the fabric. Dont stretch the fabric as it causes the layup to distort.
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“The further a society drifts from the truth, the more it will hate those that speak it.” George Orwell
“Before a standing army can rule, the people must be disarmed; as they are in almost every kingdom in Europe.
The supreme power in America cannot enforce unjust laws by the sword; because the whole body of the people are armed.”
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03-23-2012, 09:10 AM
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#32 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varn
When I do lay ups I cover the surface with rip stop nylon or polyester fabric. On compound curves I use strips about 2 inches wide. It produces a smooth surface and makes sure that the edges of the composite are embedded in the resin, just peel off the cloth. If another layer is required you have a great surface to do a secondary layup, no sanding.
Some hints I would ad is to make sure you don't have any wrinkles in the fabric. Dont stretch the fabric as it causes the layup to distort.
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Where do you get this fabric ... any fabric store ?? And thanks for posting |
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03-23-2012, 10:14 AM
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#33 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Search for "Polyester Taffeta"
At the fiberglass supply shops it is called peel ply. It produces a totally different effect than the mylar I posted, it leaves a flat, textured surface that does not need any sanding to go on with the next layup. The mylar leaves a mirror-like finish, for that last layer before paint. Only need a bit of sanding to provide "tooth" for the paint to stick to.
The only thing to beware of is any kind of coating it may have from a regular fabric store. That coating, if present, would mess with the bond of a successive layer.
Peel ply is useful when you lay up an area, then plan on bonding a wall or bulkhead to that surface later. Leave the peel ply on to keep it clean while you work on other things.
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03-23-2012, 01:57 PM
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#34 (permalink)
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Do more with less
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There is really nothing to beware of. Just go to the local fabric shop and get the color that is on sale. Rip stop is preferred but heavier polyester (dacron) works fine. I have tried smooth plastic and the surface has always needed sanding any way.
another use for polyester is to lay it out over a frame slightly heat it to get it to shrink tight and use it as a wet layup mold. In the ecomod vein I built a molded grill cover and wheel spats for my camo van. The finished result can be seen in my vehicle gallery.
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“The further a society drifts from the truth, the more it will hate those that speak it.” George Orwell
“Before a standing army can rule, the people must be disarmed; as they are in almost every kingdom in Europe.
The supreme power in America cannot enforce unjust laws by the sword; because the whole body of the people are armed.”
– Noah Webster, 1787
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Varn For This Useful Post:
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05-29-2012, 10:23 PM
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#35 (permalink)
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The Following User Says Thank You to NeilBlanchard For This Useful Post:
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05-30-2012, 01:11 PM
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#36 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
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Great tips. Thanks. Made my first project a while back.... was disappointed. Plan to try again.
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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07-29-2013, 04:50 PM
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#37 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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I just stumbled across the thread. Interesting perspectives all around. Thanks, skyking!
As to the topic: My parents used this technique on craft sized projects in teh 1970s.
I think it influenced my go-to method for chemically stripping paint. Pour the stripper on and cover it with 4mil polyethylene, then squeegee it out instead of brushing. I did this on the roof of a Squareback, and when I peeled the plastic back, 70% of the paint was fused to the plastic and I was looking at the original phosphate coating on the German steel. Not so much luck with vertical surfaces but it really holds the volatiles to the task.
Citrus based strippers, not the stuff with Methyl Mercury.
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