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Old 03-23-2012, 08:30 AM   #31 (permalink)
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When I do lay ups I cover the surface with rip stop nylon or polyester fabric. On compound curves I use strips about 2 inches wide. It produces a smooth surface and makes sure that the edges of the composite are embedded in the resin, just peel off the cloth. If another layer is required you have a great surface to do a secondary layup, no sanding.

Some hints I would ad is to make sure you don't have any wrinkles in the fabric. Dont stretch the fabric as it causes the layup to distort.

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Old 03-23-2012, 09:10 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varn View Post
When I do lay ups I cover the surface with rip stop nylon or polyester fabric. On compound curves I use strips about 2 inches wide. It produces a smooth surface and makes sure that the edges of the composite are embedded in the resin, just peel off the cloth. If another layer is required you have a great surface to do a secondary layup, no sanding.

Some hints I would ad is to make sure you don't have any wrinkles in the fabric. Dont stretch the fabric as it causes the layup to distort.
Where do you get this fabric ... any fabric store ?? And thanks for posting
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:14 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Search for "Polyester Taffeta"
At the fiberglass supply shops it is called peel ply. It produces a totally different effect than the mylar I posted, it leaves a flat, textured surface that does not need any sanding to go on with the next layup. The mylar leaves a mirror-like finish, for that last layer before paint. Only need a bit of sanding to provide "tooth" for the paint to stick to.
The only thing to beware of is any kind of coating it may have from a regular fabric store. That coating, if present, would mess with the bond of a successive layer.
Peel ply is useful when you lay up an area, then plan on bonding a wall or bulkhead to that surface later. Leave the peel ply on to keep it clean while you work on other things.
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Old 03-23-2012, 01:57 PM   #34 (permalink)
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There is really nothing to beware of. Just go to the local fabric shop and get the color that is on sale. Rip stop is preferred but heavier polyester (dacron) works fine. I have tried smooth plastic and the surface has always needed sanding any way.

another use for polyester is to lay it out over a frame slightly heat it to get it to shrink tight and use it as a wet layup mold. In the ecomod vein I built a molded grill cover and wheel spats for my camo van. The finished result can be seen in my vehicle gallery.
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:23 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Here's some very useful videos on making FRP molds and parts, using the vacuum method:





The fellow Reg Schmeiss in the videos was a member of the Edison2 X-Prize team.
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Old 05-30-2012, 01:11 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Great tips. Thanks. Made my first project a while back.... was disappointed. Plan to try again.
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:50 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I just stumbled across the thread. Interesting perspectives all around. Thanks, skyking!

As to the topic: My parents used this technique on craft sized projects in teh 1970s.

I think it influenced my go-to method for chemically stripping paint. Pour the stripper on and cover it with 4mil polyethylene, then squeegee it out instead of brushing. I did this on the roof of a Squareback, and when I peeled the plastic back, 70% of the paint was fused to the plastic and I was looking at the original phosphate coating on the German steel. Not so much luck with vertical surfaces but it really holds the volatiles to the task.

Citrus based strippers, not the stuff with Methyl Mercury.

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