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Old 01-13-2011, 07:50 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Are you having traction problems at the top end of the track? If not, consider removing your wing. A friend with a mid 7 second econorail picked up several tenths by removing his wing. It provided significant downforce and drag, but it was unneccessary for his car. Maybe as a method of testing, gradually reduce the angle of attack on your wing to see what it does to your ET and trap speeds until it's completely flat before removing. Make sure the driver is prepared while you do this, I'd hate for you/him to throw it into a guardrail if it does start to slip.

Can you switch to a funny car body? Your chassis looks close enough to make it work.

Extend your nose back to the engine if allowed. Build deflectors into the side of the body to divert air around the rear wheels.

I doubt you will see much change due to the extinguishers, but if you do anything, can you relocate them inside the frame rails? (under the nose cone, or just in front of the motor).

Of course, carefully consult your rule book before making any changes.

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FWIW, I grew up around the drag strip that my dad owns and my brother races a 230mph funny car.

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Old 01-13-2011, 08:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ryland View Post
The other drag car that was shown by arcosine I notice also has fenders on the rear wheels, at 250mph the top tread of the tire is going to otherwise be seeing 500mph air speed.
Not anything but a guess, but that may be needed to keep thr tread cool.
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Old 01-13-2011, 08:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The burnouts prior to the run are for the express purpose of heating up the tread.
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Old 01-13-2011, 08:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The burnouts prior to the run are for the express purpose of heating up the tread.
Absolutely, but get the tires 2 hot and they get "greasy" (not as sticky), I totally do not know of cooling is needed or not though.

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Old 01-13-2011, 08:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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For the few seconds it's running I doubt it matters.
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Old 01-13-2011, 11:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I would suggest relocating the fire extinguisher. Is there room under the nose fairing?

Install discs on the front wheels, or swap them out for a solid style.

Extend the nose fairing back to the engine.

Round the edges of the firewall to help airflow reattach.

Boat tail the rear wheels like this guy did with his main landing gear:

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Old 01-13-2011, 11:15 PM   #17 (permalink)
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There must be a way to estimate the performance effects of lowering the Cd in that application, such that one isn't running around building stuff that doesn't help.
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Old 01-14-2011, 06:26 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I second the move the fire extinguisher.
Put a full hood on it and enclose as much of the engine at possible. Hiding the Mag from the air might be hard unless you can find a way to change the drive.
It's a topolino body? Could you put rear guards on it, something teardrop shaped?
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:27 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I suggest putting stakes on the aft section of the front nose. The stakes are flat or angled back adjustable plates that divert some of the airflow coming off the nose. The effect would be similar to the cylinder in front of bluff body in the following figure:



I think that the intake should remain in undisturbed flow, but it could be beneficial for the flow around the rear tires.
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:31 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerohead View Post
Is there a section in the rule-book we could look at which 'defines' the limitations for your class,as far as coachwork is considered?
We don't want to get you dis-qualified.
In this class we can pretty much do what we want to. As long as safe.

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