07-13-2008, 10:50 AM
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#61 (permalink)
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Modding for Eris
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: North Bay, Ontario, Canada
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Awesome! Where did you get it? How does it hook into the wiring?
As I said, the cross bars aren't perfect. A kind of oval shape with a semicircle on top (which is the rubber strip that things sit on - it could be shaved down to a low flat platform and still work). They could benefit from an elongated rear half.
Though I must admit I don't use them very often - mostly because I don't take the ol' surf ski out to the water much nowdays.
As for the mirrors - they're big old parachutes on the Outback. Great for seeing things, but sheez. If I was keeping the car I'd invest in some cameras to replace them - not sure if they're legal in Australia though.
__________________
Making do with a Honda Civic. Tesla Model 3 reserved. Still kinda want an SVX for fun, though.
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07-14-2008, 11:41 AM
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#62 (permalink)
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Philthy
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: lexington, ky
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I don't know what kind of stereo you have in your outback, but I like to have my scan gauge in the little opening that is ~3" below my radio. It fits in there perfectly and is accessible so that i can push the buttons w/o reaching through or around my steering wheel. a piece of 2x4 should make the perfect spacer for it to keep it right at the opening of the space.
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07-16-2008, 08:43 PM
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#63 (permalink)
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A madman
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: WV
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Hmmm
Found some spare screen in my rafters, decided to try it out.
Looks pretty smooth now, although I'm probably going to go with coroplast if I can find a big enough sheet.
This stuff doesent look like its going to survive a winter. I actually tore it a bit just trying to get it taught enough.
The car is DEFINATELY quieter on the highway now though.
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07-16-2008, 09:25 PM
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#64 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucey
Hmmm
Found some spare screen in my rafters, decided to try it out.
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Plastic screen or metal? If the former, watch out for melting near the exhaust components. Ever had a plastic shopping bag blow under your car and stick to its catalytic convert? I have, and the car stank like a melting candle for a month.
Using screen material is an interesting idea. It is porous enough to let the cooling air from the engine compartment diffuse out under the car, yet smooth enough from the perspective of the air passing under the car on the highway that it should reduce drag. Come to think of it, if you cover the entire bottom of the car with the edges sealed it might also act in part like a grill block - it would partially restrict air flow into the engine compartment by raising the pressure there. There are possible variations on this theme, for instance, overlapping angled slats.
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07-16-2008, 09:28 PM
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#65 (permalink)
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A madman
Join Date: Mar 2008
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its aluminum, I'm not too worried. fire extinguisher on hand though.
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07-16-2008, 09:50 PM
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#66 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: USA
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Use both: Coroplast on the sides and aluminum screen near the hot places like exhaust pipes and mufflers. That will allow heat to be drawn off rather than collecting. Aluminum screen is a superb heat conductor and dissipater.
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07-16-2008, 10:02 PM
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#67 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto
Use both: Coroplast on the sides and aluminum screen near the hot places like exhaust pipes and mufflers. That will allow heat to be drawn off rather than collecting. Aluminum screen is a superb heat conductor and dissipater.
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That would also electrically insulate the aluminum from the frame of the car, as long as it wasn't too wet underneath. The downside of using a different metal in the screen than in the body of the car is that it opens up the possibility of galvanic corrosion. Aluminum + iron + wet salted roads = not good.
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07-16-2008, 10:23 PM
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#68 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pasadena_commut
That would also electrically insulate the aluminum from the frame of the car, as long as it wasn't too wet underneath. The downside of using a different metal in the screen than in the body of the car is that it opens up the possibility of galvanic corrosion. Aluminum + iron + wet salted roads = not good.
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Good thoughts.
How about this: Attach long strips of Coroplast to the underbody, then attach the alu. screen to them via good duct tape, adhesive, etc, keeping the screen tight. Then put the wider panels of Coroplast on, such that it clamps the screen between layers of upper and lower Coroplast in a sandwich, and electrically insulates the alu. screen. The Coroplast can be stiffened by inserting narrow dowel rods into its hollow flutes, for longitudinal rigidity.
That way, the screen's stresses are carried on a wide surface between Coroplast, rather than concentrated at screws, etc..
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07-19-2008, 02:37 PM
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#69 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucey
I also decided to remove the mudflaps while I was there.
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Regarding the mudflaps, in the picture there are two screw holes visible on the edge of the wheel well (empty here since the mudflap is gone). Our mudflaps look like the interior part may be glued onto the inside of the wheel wheel with some thick black gunk. Is there another screw holding it on somewhere inside the well, or is it really glued? It sort of looks like there is a screw hanging down in the picture in roughly the right place, but I can't quite make it out. Ours is not an Outback, just a regular Legacy.
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07-22-2008, 12:55 AM
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#70 (permalink)
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A madman
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Back to the dark pics, but:
It looks pretty good. I think I'll ditch the other one too.
Regarding the flaps:
They're not glued, theres a 3rd rubber pull tab holding it to part of the body of the car. The rubber is done by me, its roofing tar put on the wheel well. I like a quiet ride, what can I say?
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