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Old 12-06-2012, 01:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Michael Moore View Post
There have been a number of a/cooled road race engines that had the middle fins shaved off and a water jacket welded to the top and bottom fins. But that's on 2T engines. A 4T makes the most heat in the head and that is much harder to convert to liquid cooling.

cheers,
Michael
What I did several years ago, in preparation of the same modification, is purchase temperature sensors and mount one on each side of the crackcase, and the measure the maximum temperature that it sees on the hottest summer day, and record that value.

Then when the full size dustbin fairing goes on, the sensors can be used to ensure adequate cooling to the engine on both sides.

I made the mistake of not considering temperatures there on a previous full coverage motorcycle fairing many years ago, and promptly cooked the alternator windings at the end of the crankshaft.

Lesson learned.

Jim.

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Old 12-06-2012, 04:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Would adding a radiator fan to the cooling fins help or would it not be worth the energy consumed?
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Old 12-06-2012, 05:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I could also spray the engine with water while stopped, 8 extra pounds of weight but I will only have to use it when driving slow. I would refer not to have to use this idea though.
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Old 12-06-2012, 05:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Improving air cooled engine cooling can be done by drilling some 12mm holes in the fins from the top.

The problem with air cooled engine is the heat is not uniform hence risk of distortion.

The main issue is the heat managment, we want the engine to quickly warm up but then to cool adequately fast once at operating temperature.
This warm up / cooling loop is very poor on an air cooled engine.
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:44 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Although, I kind of want to do the streamlining to the Rebel so that an air cooled vehicle is running in the Vetter Fuel Efficiency Challenges. I love this old reb, she can run on corn or gas.
My sr185 has run in both ohio vetter challenges, and I plan to continue running it. I am air cooled, and have found that it can work quite well. the less fuel you consume, the less heat you put out. I achieved cooling last year by installing small cpu fans on either side of the jug, and an oil cooler patched into the oil filter circuit. a head temp sensor is an absolute must, at least for developement. take a stock control reading on a hot day after a long distance ride. then make sure that you can keep your head temp at or near (within 10-15 deg F) this mark. this will keep you safe. I am going to attempt to completely force cool my rig this year by building a shroud for the cylinder and head, and attaching a blower. I should be testing this soon, so I will let you know how it turns out.
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:07 PM   #16 (permalink)
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My dream is to build an all electric solar assisted streamlined three wheeled vehicle that can run at highway speeds, with trailers of batteries instead of tanks of gas. But right now I can't do that, so I will make the most out of what I have by making my rebel as efficient as possible.
Amusing to me how many times history repeats.
ttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunseeker_(solar_vehicle)
Solar+36V = epic fail for me. Good Luck!

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Old 12-07-2012, 09:24 AM   #17 (permalink)
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What is required to run your bike on ethanol? mine doesn't even like e-10. I lose noticeable amounts of power between zero ethanol gas, and e-10.
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Old 12-07-2012, 01:42 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterInnovation View Post
Would adding a radiator fan to the cooling fins help or would it not be worth the energy consumed?
When Harley developed the Buell-Blast, they put a plastic duct, leading from the front cylinder to the rear, for good air control.

If you had something like that, it would be easy to also add a fan to control cylinder temperature.

Even on a water cooled engine like the Honda VF500, I would seriously consider adding ducts inside the fairing to allow cool air past the crankcase to control temperatures there.

Jim.
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Old 12-07-2012, 03:40 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3-Wheeler View Post
When Harley developed the Buell-Blast, they put a plastic duct, leading from the front cylinder to the rear, for good air control.

If you had something like that, it would be easy to also add a fan to control cylinder temperature.

Even on a water cooled engine like the Honda VF500, I would seriously consider adding ducts inside the fairing to allow cool air past the crankcase to control temperatures there.

Jim.
Is the Buell blast not a single cylinder derivative of the HD engine ?

Anyway, it is right the Buell V-twin do use a cowling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterInnovation View Post
How viable do you think it would be to weld a box around the cooling fins large enough to fill with coolant and pump the heated liquid to a radiator? Seems simple enough, it's just a box and a steel engine.
Good idea but the engine is aluminium not steel wich makes it a little trickier to weld.
Also, the heat is in the head rather than the jug (remember Suzuki GSX range are air oil cooled with an extra oil capacity in the head)

Also you said you had a problem with the alternator.
Improving the cooling of the engine top end is not gonna help much the cooling of the crankcase ...
I think extra oil capacity and or oil cooler are a must to fit. You can even thermo manage the engine warm up time with a thermostat)
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:26 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Bad news, clutch is out. Project pending as I acquire a new vehicle so I am not driving around in the cold.

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