Success, kinda!

[watt-a-mezz]

I was just trying to think of a way to wire a separate switch or button to say 12volts to use when I need to back it up. I would be able to wire up a simple setup, but I dont know if it would be enough to move it. Any ideas? Watt

[Christ]

Originally Posted by watt-a-mezz

I was just trying to think of a way to wire a separate switch or button to say 12volts to use when I need to back it up. I would be able to wire up a simple setup, but I dont know if it would be enough to move it. Any ideas? Watt

Quickly:

You'll need some new battery cables
Some 10 gauge wire
A starter solenoid for a 1979 Ford Pickup
a heavy duty SPST switch or push button.

Wire the solenoid so that it's drawing power from one 12V battery, or several 12V batteries in parallel.

Wire the push button or SPST switch to turn on the field to the solenoid, which then acts as a contactor for a direct 12VDC circuit to the motor. Use this circuit instead of the throttle when you're in reverse.

You could also wire in a safety so that the circuit wouldn't even work unless you're in reverse, by just adding a brake light switch inline with your SPST switch or push button, and mounting it in such a way that the shifter engages it while you're in reverse only. This way, you can't "accidentally" engage the 12VDC circuit.

Hopefully that's fairly clear.

[watt-a-mezz]

Thanks, Christ. While I was reading your post I was drawing it out on paper. I have had three old ford trucks so I am familiar with the part you suggested. Sounds like a plan. There is an auto salvage yard near here. Will check if they have one that still works. Thanks for the info. Take care, Watt

[Christ]

If you make it out this way for a show or something, I want a ride :P

No problem, I'm usually good for a harebrained idea or two once in awhile.

[MetroMPG]

Another relatively low cost option for your cable ends (depending on strand size) is to tin them directly.

The majority of the 2/0 connections on the ForkenSwift were hammered relatively flat, then I wicked solder into them, making them solid. They were then ground flat & drilled for the battery post bolt.

DIY end top, OEM bottom:



I also tried the copper tube sheath approach, but it didn't work as easily:



For more info/details on how these were made, see starting around post # 406 in the ForkenSwift build thread, roughly here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/hreshowth...3-post763.html

Several years later, they're still working fine (not getting hot or flattening out/creeping).

[Christ]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Another relatively low cost option for your cable ends (depending on strand size) is to tin them directly.

The majority of the 2/0 connections on the ForkenSwift were hammered relatively flat, then I wicked solder into them, making them solid. They were then ground flat & drilled for the battery post bolt.

DIY end top, OEM bottom:



I also tried the copper tube sheath approach, but it didn't work as easily:



For more info/details on how these were made, see starting around post # 406 in the ForkenSwift build thread, roughly here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/hreshowth...3-post763.html

Several years later, they're still working fine (not getting hot or flattening out/creeping).

I definitely like this method for larger wires, but I stick with my copper tubing for smaller ones, like less than 4 gauge, because it seems like there just isn't enough wire to make a good connector.

How did you wick your wires? Water and solder balls?

[watt-a-mezz]

This is the reason I asked about the copper ends on battery cables. Could anyone help me calculate the range I should get from 8 75 ah deep cycle batteries? I did a road test, and my beginningpack voltage after charging overnight was 103V I drove for 6 miles, and my voltage at rest was 98v. I was wondering if this is normal or do I have a voltage drop somewhere? I did have a kelly dc-dc converter hooked to the 12v battery up front, but I disconnected it. Any thoughts? Thanks Watt

[watt-a-mezz]

I drove it again yesterday(8/16) and it went exactly 6 mi before starting to lose power. I checked the battery cables and they were warm to touch. I have some work to do on it yet, so I am going to redo my cable lugs, and build a 12 v short draw switch. It needs some brake work so it will give me time to get all the bugs out. Thanks for the help, take care, Watt