Tell me if I am crazy Solar RV Escape module

[redpoint5]

Originally Posted by freebeard

My parent's built a house on the Oregon coast in 1980. It was designed such that when the wind was blowing 100MPH, the only sound was the rain hitting the windowpanes. It was like a Mercedes-Benz at 100MPH.

180MPH winds sound achievable to me, airplanes fly faster than that. Maybe not with cedar shingles, but only because of airborne debris. Today I'd go with hexagonal concrete tiles.

I'd want noise cancellation in the home stereo, though.

I've wondered why noise cancellation isn't standard equipment in every car. All cars these days have speakers and a microphone and a computer, so they've got everything you need to cancel a bit of that noise. Save a bit on acoustic treatments in software.

[j-c-c]

Wouldn't one of hurdles for noise canceling inside the car be the inadvertent canceling/diminishing of say a siren, burglar alarm, a mom screaming for its child not walk behind your backing car, a motorcycle nearby, etc, and all the legal liabilities therein?

[Piotrsko]

One word: Bentley.

Yes you cant hear stuff, but in theory you don't need to if you're operating at deliberate haste. Being late for work makes you shortcut a lot of carefullness which is where the accidents happen.

I see red/blue/yellow/ white flashing lights long before I hear the vehicle

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

I see red/blue/yellow/ white flashing lights long before I hear the vehicle

There are some hospitals near my apartment, so I occasionally see vehicles which are "obviously" involved with some emergency even when there are no flashing lights or sirens. Once in a while, hearing the way the driver hits the horn, or how the engine is revved the hell out of, may give some clues too.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by j-c-c

I
Another idea I have toyed with is and just started is converting a 78 passenger COE diesel school bus into a hybrid RV/enclosed race car hauler. It will need its own economical power source for use at the tracks.

So, this is the idea, mount on its roof a 2800?Watt 120/240V solar/grid tied backup system, and come any hurricane, I don't have to worry about booking any high priced non-cancelable high in demand multi day hurricane stays in a hotel that might also become in the storm's path, I just load my food from my home refrig, fuel up, tow a second car on a trailer, and drive away as needed. Return post hurricane and power my home off a transfer switch connected to the RV solar/battery/diesel genset. I live alone so my power needs can be curtailed as power is available and still live comfortably in my home. I likely would oversize the RV with lithium battery capacity for longevity and weight in the RV.

It would be my RV/race car hauler/hurricane escape module. I could also incorporate a split basic/essential electric system for the house to be run 24/7 off the RV for reduced electric billing if I became industrious.
Am I crazy?

Sounds completely sane to me. Similar to what I'm doing with an ambulance conversion but I'm looking to live it in full time. If you are looking at adding 2800 watts of solar you are going to need to move up residential solar components instead of 12V RV and campervan stuff. (Current just gets WAY to high at 12V)

I'm going with 1800 watts of solar and 10 kWh of LFP battery at 48V.

[j-c-c]

Yes, I'm on the same page at 48V which I have already decided, but if I had to do over, I would go even higher.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

The hardest part with lower voltages would be to find suitable appliances, without having to get inverters or a gas stove.

[j-c-c]

My solution everything not part of vehicle operation will connect to ithe 48V inverters. I likely will have a small independent backup inverter connected to the vehicle 12V system.

[Piotrsko]

Originally Posted by j-c-c

My solution everything not part of vehicle operation will connect to ithe 48V inverters. I likely will have a small independent backup inverter connected to the vehicle 12V system.

is this a financial decision or a practical engineering one? Dc to Ac then back to Dc conversions are really lossy and expensive for all the pieces parts involved. Suppose you could build your own supercap voltage multiplier and PWM stepdowns, but all the voltage multiplier circuitry I have experienced is not that high currents and really fussy about parameters.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by j-c-c

I likely will have a small independent backup inverter connected to the vehicle 12V system.

How would you ensure the backup inverter wouldn't drain the battery enough to prevent the engine from starting when required?