Tested: power draw of Geo Metro accessories & systems (volts, current/amps, watts)

[theunchosen]

Some cars actually have this stock. I've seen it happen to my own shock. It looked like the alt was turning and then I noticed the end cap of the alt was sitting still and then it engaged and everything was turning like normal. Then after maybe 2 minutes it disengaged again(was recharging the AC).

I was pretty impressed but I can't recall who did it.

[MetroMPG]

Clev: no dash lights comparison. Didn't occur to me, but I'd have to guess it's less than 20 watts for this car between high & low.

theunchosen: I agree about solar being an occasionally viable option with electrical load being this low. Also agree about the cost/aero challenges.

[stevey_frac]

... Perhaps i'm crazy... but... couldn't you recoup a lot of that juice with a system similar to this:

http://www1.eere.energy.gov/vehicles...eer_kushch.pdf

[McTimson]

Very interesting results! I'm surprised that the high beams only added 8W, I thought that would be a lot more. This will definitely make me think about what I keep on when I EOC.

stevey_frac, from a quick glance, it looks like that system would definitely provide enough power when the engine is on.

[Southcross]

a buddy of mine suggested that if the alternator relies on a field wire to charge (like most of the VWs through 2001?), you might be able to relay or "switch" that wire so you can turn on and off charging. You will still have the momentum of rotation, but loose the physical drag of charging.

[Daox]

Thats exactly what I did with my alternator disable switch. Check out the Paseo build thread in my sig.

[theunchosen]

thermo-electric conversion units are all rather expensive for performance. I would toss that.

The regenerative suspension and solar ought to be enough to entirely negate an alt during the day and if the single battery were replaced for two deeps you could run it at night for trips less than a couple of hours(objective is to keep the deeps from dropping below 80% charge otherwise you cut into their lifetime and the suspension regen ought to be able to slow it to allow maybe an hour and a half).

[Christ]

I like the suspension regen idea... links?

Would there be a way to make a shock that could be stiffened/softened by electrical load? (You could adjust it with a rotary pot for stiffness, and stiffer = higher output?)

[MetroMPG]

FYI, I had someone ask how to use a digital multimeter to get current readings for his particular car. Posted this thread:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...amps-9642.html

.

[jedi_sol]

I'm trying to plan how big of a solar panel/deep cycle battery is needed for my system. Here are my readings. They seem a bit high? Does anything seem off? (In terms of my testing procedures or my results)

Here is how I tested my system to get AMPS.
1) Engine Off
2) Disconnect + battery cable
3) with DMM on AMP mode, hookup +probe to +battery cable, -probe to +battery post.
4) Turn key to ACC ON

To get AMP readings for the engine idle, I disconnected the DMM, started the engine, disconnect battery cables, and hooked up DMM on AMP mode.

To get voltage readings, put everything back to normal, put the DMM back to voltage mode, re-did all of the accessories tests, and noted the voltage drops.

Recalculated

Standby (ACC ON after fuel pump primed) -- 12.1v -- 4.68amps --56.6w
Parking light, dash lights high --54w
Head light low, dash lights high --91w
High beams, dash lights high --100w
Brakelights only -- 48w
Reverse lights only --37w
Stereo volume 0 --4w
Stereo volume 30 -- 4.6w
Stereo volume 40 --6.4w
Fan Low, Interior -- 29w
Fan Hi, Interior -- 107w
Engine Idle --14.2v --6amps -- 85.2w
Engine 2500 --14.4v --6amps -- 86.4w

Thanks for your help!