Trying to figure out the budget for a S-10 EV project

[MetroMPG]

Originally Posted by Caps18

My initial thought was to get 10-12 of these marine deep cycle batteries

The best bang for the buck, is to go with flooded 6v golf cart style batteries. If you're doing a truck, you'll have the room / GVWR. 12v batteries won't last as long - the plates aren't as robust as the 6v ones.

I'm not sure if I would go AC or DC though and what that impacts in way of costs:

AC is more moolah. DC components are more common, and if you start scrounging now, you may be able to pick up some used ones before your deadline.

I am basically making a grocery getter, bad weather transport, and big item transport. I would like to put my kayak in the back and take it easily to a river or lake that is 6 miles away. If the weather is good (and I don't have to carry anything big or rush anywhere), I can ride my bike and will continue to do so, even with an EV.

[Caps18]

Something like this battery?
http://www.batteriesplus.com/pc-3651...SLI6V225S.aspx

It costs $170 for 6V ($3400 for 20 = 120V). It has lots of Ah though (250Ah). How many amp hours do you think I should be looking to get? How many years/miles/recharges could I expect for each type of battery? It sure would be nice if some company would produce a 120V battery (it may be huge, but it would be just one part.) I wonder if the Sears 2 year guarantee applies to electric car batteries?

(My current Saturn SC2 looks like that right now with the kayak on the roof, but it doesn't do a good job carrying lumber, chairs, TVs, dirt, rocks, grills, and a few other items.)

[SatanicMechanic]

Originally Posted by Caps18

Something like this battery?
http://www.batteriesplus.com/pc-3651...SLI6V225S.aspx

It costs $170 for 6V ($3400 for 20 = 120V). It has lots of Ah though (250Ah). How many amp hours do you think I should be looking to get? How many years/miles/recharges could I expect for each type of battery? It sure would be nice if some company would produce a 120V battery (it may be huge, but it would be just one part.) I wonder if the Sears 2 year guarantee applies to electric car batteries?

(My current Saturn SC2 looks like that right now with the kayak on the roof, but it doesn't do a good job carrying lumber, chairs, TVs, dirt, rocks, grills, and a few other items.)

I can tell you a cheaper source of batteries. When I converted over from the Optima Yellow Tops to the Trojan T-125s, I was shocked at the current price of the T-125. Trojan Flooded batteries in the past used to be the cheapest but everyone uses them so the price went up. Then I found out that it is actually one battery manufacturer that produces these and they sell to different battery companies with different case colors. The Trojan T-125 is equivalent to a U.S. Battery U.S. 125, the Dyno sGC2B, Exide's GC5, Interstate U2300 and many others. I can give you an equivalent list if you wish.
I went with the Interstate U2300 because it was cheaper at $120 a battery vs. $187 for the T-125. In past dealings with battery companies, I was always able to haggle over the price since it was a volume purchase (volume discount) and it was for an electric vehicle.

Something else to consider besides amp-hr capacity is the number of cycles the batteries can take. The T-125 can take 650 cycles at 80% Depth of Discharge.

[SatanicMechanic]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

The best bang for the buck, is to go with flooded
AC is more moolah. DC components are more common, and if you start scrounging now, you may be able to pick up some used ones before your deadline.

Yes it costs a hell of lot more. When I worked on A.C. Propulsion's 100kw drive system, it cost $25k over ten years ago. Then they came out with the 150kw drive system and that cost $35k. Now they produce a second generation system using IGBT's and the costs are huge.
It is a hell of a lot cheaper to go with a DC setup. The efficencies of the A.C. Propulsion's system is around 95% and I have seen DC setups the vary from 85-89%.