Turbo choices

[cleanspeed1]

Originally Posted by Christ

You mean tuning the LDA pump to make the power by itself, then just staying out of the pedal when I don't need to use it, right?


Seems like the easiest option, for sure. Really, I'd rather not use propane, because using it effectively mans retarding the injection timing, which I can't really do dynamically. Ok, that's a lie, but it involves a high pressure fuel pump and some electronics.... PITA.

Either way, with the LDA or an optimized NA pump. Since you have the discipline to control yourself, you could make the engine more powerful without spewing smoke and melting the thing down. It's the better option.

I guess what I am saying is make the thing run strong, and drive like a good owner/operator trucker.

One more story: Bruce Mallinson over at Pittsburgh Power builds high powered Class 8 diesels and thinks a lot like us. He made his name building up the old, mechanical Cummins NTC and KTA engines to ridiculous power levels while improving the mileage and overall driving ease for the owner ops. These old engines put out 800 to over 1000hp in 80k trucks while being 1-2 mpg better loaded. No need to keep dropping gears in the hills, wearing yourself out because there's 2800-3600 ft/lbs of torque to play with. No electronics, no chemicals, no black smoke. His electronic engines are even stronger.

[cleanspeed1]

Originally Posted by Christ

Lol... I have a GT37 VNT from a 6.6 Duramax... Too much?

I had a IHI RHB5 VJ11 turbo, but I think I traded it for something some time... Forgot to look while I was at my fathers house.

Hey, I got a crazy idea, since you have the GT37.

Take that thing and compound it with a properly sized primary charger. Keep the vane function operable, so she spools nice. Keep everything non wastegated, and control the boost level with the fuel delivery.

No sense letting a good turbo go to waste!

[Christ]

I've heard of people who do that sort of thing, and besides reliability, that's exactly what I'd do, but I want this motor to have OE LIKE reliability. 200hp can be seen with these motors, but it ain't cheap/easy/free by any means.

Right now, peak torque is around 3200. If the turbo started making boost at 2300, it would enhance piling power, and I could stay out of boost under general acceleration.

[Christ]

Originally Posted by cleanspeed1

Hey, I got a crazy idea, since you have the GT37.

Take that thing and compound it with a properly sized primary charger. Keep the vane function operable, so she spools nice. Keep everything non wastegated, and control the boost level with the fuel delivery.

No sense letting a good turbo go to waste!

That turbo cost $50 to ship... It would defeat my front suspension! Lol

I got it from a member on here to use on a gas to diesel project starting with a 300 I6 Ford motor, but haven't had a chance to play with it yet.

Haven't been able to find a VNT Gt15?? Only fixed geo...

[cleanspeed1]

Let's go with that. Let's recalculate optimal boost and flowrate to torque peak or 200 rpm ahead of it, which will boost the torque below it, allowing for a lower shift point. Fuel rate and timing curve with a fast rise, pulling to 3600-3800 rpms, goal for 125 ft/lbs of torque per liter ( 200 ft/lbs ) and let the hp fall where it may.

[cleanspeed1]

Originally Posted by Christ

That turbo cost $50 to ship... It would defeat my front suspension! Lol

I got it from a member on here to use on a gas to diesel project starting with a 300 I6 Ford motor, but haven't had a chance to play with it yet.

Haven't been able to find a VNT Gt15?? Only fixed geo...

Don't worry about the VNT, if the pump is calibrated properly, the boost will come on strong and there won't be a need for it.

[Christ]

Were still assuming I have the skills to calibrate the pump on my own, and I've never actually done it. I'm usually pretty good stuff like this, but Im gonna start slow, I think.

[cleanspeed1]

If it takes a little longer, giles should do the pump if you are not comfortable with it.

Basic rule is 2cc's/1000 strokes/hp

Find out how much the pump puts out, size the injectors accordingly.

[Christ]

The OEM injectors are enough to make 280hp, possibly more. They'll take whatever I throw at them, surely. While I'm working all this out, looking for a great deal, and fixing other aspects of the car, I'm going to rebuild a set of injectors and calibrate them to +/- 1 bar if I can find a gauge sensitive enough.

When those get installed, I'm going to do the IP internal pressure (residual volume) checkand adjustment, then set static timing and increase the fuel until I get smoke, then back it off some.

Right now, I'm driving on less than 50pk hp, so even 80 would be a world of difference, and 80 is doable on the stock n/a pump with basic mods, no turbo.

That will at least get me started, and a properly tuned setup should get me better mileage, as well.

Maybe 70 isn't out of reach...

[cleanspeed1]

Recalculated everything so that it's best by 3200 rpms. Using 98 hp as the goal ( 1 hp/ cu in. at 3200 rpms, it'll rev higher than this and still pull to 4000, but now the powerband is real bottom heavy )

13.65 pounds per minute of airflow

18.95 psi boost gauge pressure ( 33.66 absolute )

Pressure ratio is 2.60

So it looks like a GT15 sized turbo will still work with a little more boost.

There weren't any maps available on the website so an exact match couldn't be made, but I'll make a phonecall.