Turbo choices

[cleanspeed1]

Originally Posted by jtbo

Mechanical, but maybe rotary, that I have never studied so much.

Maybe pic will help? It is not even same brand car, but engine is same and pump more or less same.


It is like Christ's car, dumb mechanical injection without any fancy stuff, however that 1.6l VW engine should have pump that is lot easier to play with.

Can you post a full shot of the engine compartment, turbo plumbing and undercarriage shots?

[cleanspeed1]

After thinking about it ( lazy Saturday ) we'll go cheap to expensive. Here's the order.

1. Exhaust system from turbo to tailpipe.

2. Cold air piping from air filter with low restriction air filter ( open element K&N or equivalent, biggest that will fit under hood ) and all the cold side piping from turbo compressor outlet to intake manifold.

3. Pump adjustment.

4. Cam swap.

[Tygen1]

I'm still looking for the VNT that I was thinking of...that will definataly help the low end spooling!

[Christ]

Originally Posted by cleanspeed1

After thinking about it ( lazy Saturday ) we'll go cheap to expensive. Here's the order.

1. Exhaust system from turbo to tailpipe.

2. Cold air piping from air filter with low restriction air filter ( open element K&N or equivalent, biggest that will fit under hood ) and all the cold side piping from turbo compressor outlet to intake manifold.

3. Pump adjustment.

4. Cam swap.

Performance cam grinds don't do much of anything for these engines. Can timing anathema can be made to optimize, but its more trouble than its with unless it's a clean rebuild and you're degreeing the cam. These cams are infinitely adjustable; no key way in the snout.

[jtbo]

Originally Posted by cleanspeed1

Can you post a full shot of the engine compartment, turbo plumbing and undercarriage shots?

These cars actually have Bosch or Lucas pumps, Bosch being preferred because easy of adjustment and better tolerance of veggie oil, of course in my car it have to be Lucas, they do look almost the same.

You really can't see anything from underside, even from top it is pretty difficult to take photo that would be useful, even more difficult is to do anything as cooler and intake manifold mate together, at minimum intake manifold would require some adapter to be able to put intercooler where it belongs to.

Original air filter is already freeflow type, removing intake silencer would help very tiny bit and make noise even more unbearable.



Link to more pics and info of diesel tuning with turbo

Small diesel just is not putting out enough gases at low rpm cruise throttle to get traditional turbo to spool up if made to such size that high rpm are possible without melting something, that is what I have been told and so I have found to be, but maybe there is some way?

I don't know if Chirst will ever need more than 2500rpm, rpm limited to there might be plenty and with my understanding then it would be possible to put so small traditional turbo that it will be usable below 1500rpm.

Air filter and exhaust might help a bit, but most those do is noise (those early VW's with 1.6L engine are not very silent to begin with), exhaust manifold would help nicely, but would take more than car's life to get back as savings, it is still quite small effect to FE, imo.

One cheap way to get turbo spool earlier is to install limit pressure valve, uhm, I think it is not really called to that, it is not a bleed valve, but a valve that is closed until set pressure is reached, it is installed to pipe that goes to wastegate actuator, so that actuator does not 'see' any pressure increase until set pressure is reached. That keeps wastegate closed completely unlike how it is typically, wastegate is opening gradually with pressure.

Adandos mentioned earlier about his website, I did check on there and A/R is now pretty clear to me, so Christ if you have had no time to check it, it is worth the time, imo It was around half way of that long page:
Turbo Calculator | HorsepowerCalculators.net

Here even regular turbos seem to cost around 600-800, VNT ones more than 1000, work to pump is several hundreds, all prices are euros, so that limits quite a bit what I'm willing to do for car that is no more after a year and where mods need to pay themselves within that time. Christ has better situation as if I understood correctly you are going to keep improving car over the years?

[cleanspeed1]

Originally Posted by Christ

Performance cam grinds don't do much of anything for these engines. Can timing anathema can be made to optimize, but its more trouble than its with unless it's a clean rebuild and you're degreeing the cam. These cams are infinitely adjustable; no key way in the snout.

Cam swaps can help any engine, and the grind would actually be milder than what is already in the motor now from the factory. It will act more truck like.
Maybe advancing the stock cam a few degrees would do the same, pushing the powerband down and boosting the torque.

Think of it as the difference between the standard Metro and the Metro XFi camshafts. Didn't know until recently that the cam timing was different, with the XFi being milder between the two ( as if the Metro cam wasn't mild enough ).

[Christ]

Originally Posted by cleanspeed1

Cam swaps can help any engine, and the grind would actually be milder than what is already in the motor now from the factory. It will act more truck like.
Maybe advancing the stock cam a few degrees would do the same, pushing the powerband down and boosting the torque.

Think of it as the difference between the standard Metro and the Metro XFi camshafts. Didn't know until recently that the cam timing was different, with the XFi being milder between the two ( as if the Metro cam wasn't mild enough ).

There were a couple people making cam grinds, and the result was them going out of business because for power, the new grinds just weren't worth the coin.

As far as adjusting timing, there are only a few degrees of adjustment available before diesel knock becomes diesel broke. VERY tight inside this engine. I think that can timing is something that would require dyno time to get it right and get the most gains from it.

[cleanspeed1]

Originally Posted by Christ

There were a couple people making cam grinds, and the result was them going out of business because for power, the new grinds just weren't worth the coin.

As far as adjusting timing, there are only a few degrees of adjustment available before diesel knock becomes diesel broke. VERY tight inside this engine. I think that can timing is something that would require dyno time to get it right and get the most gains from it.

Naw dude, not for your motor; jtbo was asking about making the engine pull harder 500 rpms lower on his ZX. The VW cam is nigh on perfect.

[Christ]

Would an IHI RHB5 VJ11 get me close to what I wanted?

Got offers for one of those and a k03. The k03 will probably cost too much shipped in from Canadia though.

[cleanspeed1]

Found a map for this turbo on MX-6.com.


http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-sub...psi-plots.html

Gonna do some adjusting with the figures to get the pressure ratio into a more acceptable range.