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Old 05-28-2014, 01:54 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Let's talk lights.

I want to flush mount the lights on the front and tail. I already have an 8700, and two 6150's but I need turn signals for the front and preferably LED. The issue of course is DOT approval.

For the tail the brake light must be as close to the rear of the vehicle as possible. This means to me one on either side of the tail tip or the tail tip itself having the brake light.

For the rear blinker the lights have to be at least 4.5" optically off center. This means they are going to be on the 4th rib from the tip or farther away. They need to face backward though and hopefully be streamlined as well.

I would just go with all LED strip lighting but I know the guys inspecting the bike won't let it pass. Thoughts?

I have been looking at classic vehicle cone tail lights to pin off the back and convert to blinkers for the sides for the rear.

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Old 05-28-2014, 01:57 PM   #62 (permalink)
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I alwasy thought the lights behind the steamlined wall looked best. and there are no aerodynamic issues since they are in the shell.
how do you see them?
there is clear polycarbonate in front!
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Old 05-28-2014, 02:20 PM   #63 (permalink)
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I don't know how I see them right now. I do have a drawing where the lights are facing rear ward on the sides and mid tail at the top which would be covered but long.

I would like to make this thing look good and not just function good.

Here are some early concepts I made / photoshoped.
Front end mockup
Pre single tail mockup
Pre single tail mockup lbls
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Old 05-28-2014, 05:02 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Another issue I am going to have to resolve soon and is a great question for metal workers.

The seat pan Vetter drew up has a 1/8" aluminum top which is bent on two sides for rigidness and connects to the two side plates via extruded angle aluminum (1") with machine screws.

Bending 1/8" aluminum, I imagine even 3000 serious, would be pretty hard for a nearly 4' bend. So I was thinking. What would be stronger. Bending the aluminum in a large radius (like over 1/2"), welding extruded 1" angle to the edge that needs it on the top of the plate. or simply fastening the extruded 1" angle to the edge with machine screws as well.

I believe there is a picture on my blog with vetter's suggestions and you can see my videos to see what I am talking about if you have no clue
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Old 05-28-2014, 06:32 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Are there any problems having a headlight shining through a second layer of transparent material? Is it efficient ? I'd like to have an LED spotlight too ..... I have one on my current bike and it's VERY good.

Burton, I think the fairing piece /licence plate cover behind your helmet might be too steeply tapered downwards.
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:35 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterS View Post
Are there any problems having a headlight shining through a second layer of transparent material? Is it efficient ? I'd like to have an LED spotlight too ..... I have one on my current bike and it's VERY good.

Burton, I think the fairing piece /licence plate cover behind your helmet might be too steeply tapered downwards.
If you keep the transparent material clean there is no issue. Unless of course it is illegal in your state to have anything between the outside world and your headlight.

Normally the license plate cover isn't even there. It just goes straight back. The angle of this tail is likely FPO and or using the angles Tom Finch suggested on Vetters page. I drew it so long ago I can't remember.

Also I don't think the cover is legal in VA so I cannot go that route.
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Old 05-29-2014, 02:23 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burton View Post
Let's talk lights.

I want to flush mount the lights on the front and tail. I already have an 8700, and two 6150's but I need turn signals for the front and preferably LED. The issue of course is DOT approval.

For the tail the brake light must be as close to the rear of the vehicle as possible. This means to me one on either side of the tail tip or the tail tip itself having the brake light.

For the rear blinker the lights have to be at least 4.5" optically off center. This means they are going to be on the 4th rib from the tip or farther away. They need to face backward though and hopefully be streamlined as well.

I would just go with all LED strip lighting but I know the guys inspecting the bike won't let it pass. Thoughts?

I have been looking at classic vehicle cone tail lights to pin off the back and convert to blinkers for the sides for the rear.
I put the led lights (7m roll on flea bay-~$3) on the end. I copied what Vetter did by placing the turn signal lights & brake light behind my head on .032" aluminum. I never heard the brake rule you speak of, but it wouldn't surprise me in a state where inspections are required. Make your own round LED's and connect to brake wire. Ground the aluminum with the NEG, and then ground everything else to the aluminum. Pic Below.



Also leave the current lights inside the tail- those act as night lights in the tail if your electrical system can handle the load.

Last edited by hyper-miler; 05-29-2014 at 02:06 PM..
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:14 AM   #68 (permalink)
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The inspection requirements are better defined in this state than CA where there is only a YES/NO check box next to elements to be found on the bike and "meat legal requirements," which isn't defined anywhere.

Motorcycle inspection
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Old 05-30-2014, 04:04 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Hi... I'm also a long-time follower of Vetter's progress on his last fairing. Although I'm new here, I hope you won't mind my sharing some observations as I studied your work (I'm working on a similar project, but not as extreme).

I think I figured out why your drop angle in the back seems too steep... On your blog I read the result for your calculation from widest line to the point of the vertical shape, "The imaginary point being a good 69 inches from the rear bulkhead where our tails ideal length is only 42.72 inches." I can see you are using the formula 1.78d and d=24" to get 42.72", so I assume you used d=39" for the vertical plane to get 69" to the point? But your actual d should be 2x the distance from the ground to the top of your head when projecting the ideal shape in the vertical plane, because the road surface becomes the centerline when working in the vertical plane. This means there should be a gentle curve from the back of your head to a point meeting the pavement over 10' behind you, and a very gentle drop in the tail vertically until it tapers to a point horizontally...

That said, I think the vertical plane is far less significant with a motorcycle than what is happening in the horizontal planes, and you are probably better off to plot horizontal planes at your waist, ribs, shoulders, and head; taper those to the proper point behind you, and then make one smooth shape that approximates all of that. Although compound curves are very difficult to manufacture, it seems to me that it is very important not to go straight into a 17 or even 11 degree angle because the air will separate right behind the seatback when it meets this angle and not re-attach easily.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to following this project, and hope I've been of some help...
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Old 05-30-2014, 12:56 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Having sold automotive lighting products for many years I understand the need to be visible and legal. Truck cab marker lights with red lens can be used as tail lights if the reflective area is added. Normally there is a running light circuit-always on and the brake and turn bulb circuit routed through the flasher. Check to see if LED replacement bulbs are available to fit the sockets.

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