Vetterizing my 2013 Zero S ZF11.4

[Burton]

TOP:
Ideal shape applied to top profile and side profile + Kamm applied to headrest for license plate.
BOTTOM:
8 degree bottom(side) + 4 degree top(side) + ideal applied to top profile + Kamm applied to headrest for license plate.
Same Ideal shape w/license Plate

8 degree bottom(side) + 4 degree top(side) + ideal applied to top profile + Kamm applied to headrest for license plate + continuation of hippohands form from front cowl.
8/4 degree ideal + LP + hands

I should note if I did something like the latter I would probably make the shape smaller than the actual size of the hippo hands up front to try and recapture the wind. This is assuming it would even be beneficial to do this.

I have not lofted the hippo hand shape on the ideal applied to top / side profile as there is more work involved with that shape but I could if there is interest.

[PeterS]

Burton what is the frontal area on the above design ?

[Burton]

Originally Posted by PeterS

Burton what is the frontal area on the above design ?

Good question. IDK what the frontal area is of the last vetter fairing or how I could figure it out. I guess I could get a cardboard box and start cutting it till it rimmed around the widest parts perpendicular to the ground. Then take it, photograph it and find an online area tool.

The above is only the tail I will be sitting against. 19" from the bottom is the seat pan and I think 38" from there is the top of the headrest. Vetter has some updates on his page showing the new seat rest if I recall. If not you can find them on my blog.

EDIT: according to sketchup the area is 7.94617105sq ft total, if you exclude the bottom area which is under the seat it is 5.42907009 sqft.

The real number is likely between the two as to sides are not perfectly flush with the bike. So something like 6.46168089 sqft if you account for the 6" on either side of the bike the fairing hangs out.

[PeterS]

Thanks Burton, I thought Sketchup would give the numbers.

[Burton]

Originally Posted by PeterS

Thanks Burton, I thought Sketchup would give the numbers.

Vetter's front cowl is 24" at its widest point. So the back is also 24" wide.

The numbers I gave you are for the tail above with the hippo hand extensions in them so the real numbers would be less given they would be smaller.

[aluminumwelder]

burton I think you are the type of person that likes to buy the best product once. I do that too, but for things I use infrequently I do realize I could of saved a lot of money if I had bought something more in tune with my needs.

Yes 250dx has more features than a ahp alpha 200x, they are features you will probably never use.

as far as warranties go, none of the chinese cheap welders have a good reputation on any welding forum, and none of them NOT even american companies pay for you to return gear, it's always on your dime.

My cheap $90 lincoln helmet goes dark on high frequency start as well. I've never had a headache from using it hours on end either. Lowes, and harbor freight have a 90 day return policy if you find out you do not like the helmet.

I've never used my air cooled torch so much that it was too hot to handle. The fact of the matter is when you are doing custom fabrication work, you spend 10% of the time welding and 90% of the time cleaning and positioning welds. Duty cycle is for people that are doing welding all day long, not a few hours at a time. Yes my lincoln water cooled package is smaller and nicer to hold, but not worth the extra cost.
I wound up getting an after market Hobart air cooled torch that was small for my longevity after a while anyways.

[Burton]

Originally Posted by aluminumwelder

burton I think you are the type of person that likes to buy the best product once. I do that too, but for things I use infrequently I do realize I could of saved a lot of money if I had bought something more in tune with my needs.

You are correct sir. Even the things I use infrequently, like my $1600 D200 Nicon camera with 70-300 lense I appreciate at lot for the added features over other cheaper cameras. (bought it in 2007 if I recall and still use it a couple times a month or more) I still love this camera and likely will not replace it for a very long time.

Originally Posted by aluminumwelder

Yes 250dx has more features than a ahp alpha 200x, they are features you will probably never use.

Does the AHP have AC frequency control?
Not sure if I mentioned it here but I have plans to start farming and building a house in 5 years. It would be nice to be able to repair and build tools with whatever welder I choose.

Originally Posted by aluminumwelder

as far as warranties go, none of the chinese cheap welders have a good reputation on any welding forum, and none of them NOT even american companies pay for you to return gear, it's always on your dime.

Which is another reason to have the warranty I realize I won't be able to get the vendor to ship it back for me but thankfully I know enough about electrical engineering I can fix something myself if given parts.

In recent years it seems the reputation of the chinese welders has been going up as quality control has gotten better. Not saying it is a blue or red box which is "Assembled in America" but still

Originally Posted by aluminumwelder

My cheap $90 lincoln helmet goes dark on high frequency start as well. I've never had a headache from using it hours on end either. Lowes, and harbor freight have a 90 day return policy if you find out you do not like the helmet.

The other day I actually put my order in for the helmet and other general accessories or I would have tried it out. I might get one anyway as a 'buddy' helmet since they are so cheap.

Originally Posted by aluminumwelder

I've never used my air cooled torch so much that it was too hot to handle. The fact of the matter is when you are doing custom fabrication work, you spend 10% of the time welding and 90% of the time cleaning and positioning welds. Duty cycle is for people that are doing welding all day long, not a few hours at a time. Yes my lincoln water cooled package is smaller and nicer to hold, but not worth the extra cost.
I wound up getting an after market Hobart air cooled torch that was small for my longevity after a while anyways.

I was under the impression after 2 minutes of welding at 140amps the torch would likely be too hot to hold for an air cooled 17. I plan on putting a lot of times getting my technique down and that will likely mean running a ton of beads on 1/8" aluminum plate since aluminum makes all your mistakes more apparent. That is after I can do a standard bead on mild steal.

I am the type of guy who would practice something without wasting anything but time. For welding I imagine I will spend a bit of time simply moving the torch, maintaining the right clearance, practicing stick and torch synchronized movement etc. all before actually laying down my first bead.

Hell I even practice braking and low speed maneuvers at least once a month so I remember what .3, .6, and .9g's feels like in case I need to do it.

I don't know what I will end up using this welder for but I do know when I do projects I have limited time and in cases where equipment has held me back I have replaced it with something nicer. I did it enough times I tend to buy something I can grow into or something where I would only ever use 80% of its full potential.

I haven't purchased the 250ex / 300wc yet but I did send an email to Everlast to see if they could give me a better price to order them in combo. However I did order a CK20 with some extras. If I don't end up needing it I can get a CK9 and put the attachments on it.

Details on this other forum / topic: Welding Tips and Tricks • View topic - Beginner needing input on equipment

[aluminumwelder]

I dont know if alpha tig has frequency adjustment, I've never used it. It probably has a fixed frequency of around 120hz, which is decent for aluminum. I use my lincoln Pt275 and it's old school 60hz frequency all the time. The longevity 160sx has a fixed 100hz frequency, it is tigher than the lincoln even though the machine cost 1/5th. I've never used an adjustable frequency machine, but from watching web videos the tigher arc is nice, though not a deal breaker IMHO.

I also do not know about the air cooled torch, you can always buy two and put one in an ice bucket to cool down, or

just buy the water cooled torch and hook up a garden hose to it. Or a little pump used in a fish tank or tile saw recirculating pump at lowes for $30. A lot cheaper than a water cooler.

anways just something to think about, good luck wishing you the best on this project. I think its very coool!!!!!

[Burton]

When you say to use a recirculating pump are you running the water through anything to cool it? Like a heater core with fans and a power supply?

EDIT: Looking at other peoples DIY torch cooler projects and it seems to make sense to simply build my own. It seems many don't need heat exchangers and it would be really easy to build one.

I once built my own watercooling box out of acrylic for my PC which had two ford 6" heater cores in it with 4 fans. It matched my acrylic box at the time for my PC but was pretty loud. I still have the pump but I bet the 900gmh would be a bit much for a torch lol

[jkv357]

Almost any mid-range TIG set-up with a standard torch will get you what you need. One of the biggest differences is the duty cycle - or what % of the time the machine can be run. For most custom fabrication it's not an issue. You are clamping, fitting, tacking, then welding. In a production environment where everything is always the same, and ready to weld immediately, you need a high duty cycle.

For TIG, a mid-range set-up isn't going to hold you back. It's more about developing the skill than it is about the tool. Getting some good hands-on instruction would be much more beneficial than having the best equipment and not knowing how to use it.