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Old 03-06-2009, 01:14 AM   #11 (permalink)
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More or less the stock filter element with custom, temperature dependent, air sourcing is my choice. I tried K&N, but it yielded no advantage -- in fact the maintenance quite costly and the darn thing disintegrated (I know, there's a warranty, but I don't want another).

I have a straight pipe entering the airbox to draw warm air from the exhaust manifold. The disadvantage is a growl under high throttle input. Otherwise, the filtration rate is moot so the OEM paper replacement is just fine.

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Old 03-28-2009, 09:23 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I use purolator pureone air & oil filters. Gold box only, outperformed all the rest in my opinion / personal testing.

To each their own, but any amount of research always leads me back to this brand.
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Old 03-29-2009, 09:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I've used the same stainless steel mesh filter by APC (Ya, I know) for over 5 years now. When it gets dirty enough that it doesn't look shiny any more, I just rinse it out from the inside, don't bother drying it, and reinstall it on the car. It cost me $20 on sale, down from $30 something.

I've used it on multiple vehicles, although it's a cone filter. I don't worry too much about noise under the hood, so the "growling" of the engine means nothing to me, and I remove the OEM airbox. There is usually no weight savings in doing this.

I've never experimented with warm air intakes, I've always pointed my filters to colder air locations, but I can't speak to FE gains or losses, since I never really recorded anything, and my "datafield" would be far from invariable.

I can say that switching from that filter to an open-cell foam *non-oiled* cone-type element on the same smooth intake pipe with no PCV, I got worse mileage SUBSTANTIALLY (like 3-5MPG worse.) and 0-60 took about 1 second longer. (1989 Civic DX, CAI, cat-back 60mm exhaust, open muffler, 3 angle valve grind and intake porting/polish, drilled fuel rail.)
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:11 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Whatever's at the auto parts store, paper, and cheap.

My model requires a full canister unit that could technically operate without an airbox.

My K&N filter disintegrated after about 3-years operation, and routine maintenance.

Bottom Line: Spend money elsewhere and get an "OK" filter. Filter flow rates are hogwash -- there are many other locations in the air stream that greatly effect engine operation: specifically FE.

Christ -- Your 0-60 results: were they under the same environmental conditions? Otherwise, I call "butt dyno".

RH77
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Old 03-30-2009, 04:38 AM   #15 (permalink)
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^Yup
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Old 03-30-2009, 07:19 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Nothing but OEM.
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:06 PM   #17 (permalink)
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0-60 runs were on a flat level runway on a 50 degree day, engine pre-warmed. I ran the tests back to back, three runs with each engine left to idle between to maintain constant running temps, so it was AAA BBB AAA BBB at full throttle each time, launching off a 2-step rev-limiter at 2400 RPM with basically a clutch dump (unsprung clutches don't like to ride out.) Wheel spin was limited.

The only reason I tested it was b/c I couldn't believe that the foam filter could restrict THAT much airflow, but I felt a major difference when I put it on, so I had to check it out.
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Old 12-15-2009, 08:53 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I prefer K&N and it's always showeed gains for me but my buddy put an amsoil air filter and swears by it in his jeep,, Actually i've talked to quite a few people who like the Amsoil I'd suggest lookin into that
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Old 12-15-2009, 09:03 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tidbit of info.

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Old 12-15-2009, 09:03 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Hey, this one's an opinion thread. I guess it's OK in here.

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